alligoat

So beautiful in its simplicity! Is Yuki still around?

Those Houston GTGs seem like ancient history! And RWG.cc has slowed down considerably. RWI seems fairly active but it's a group more focused on the modern Rolexes it seems. I'm even surprised that I've hung in here as long as I have, but I still enjoy watch collecting. I was reading up on the Zenith El Primero 3019 PHC today- it's a watch movement that's over 50 years old- came out in 1969 originally and it had a rebirth of sorts in 1988-9 when Rolex contracted with Zenith to provide the movement for the next generation of Daytonas like the 16520. Rolex reduced the movement from 36000 bph to 28800 and did away with the date feature. 10 or 12 years ago I got in on a group buy from Phong and got a pretty decent discount on a 6238 case. You might see if if he would cut you a better deal on the 16520 case. Ruby is ok, but I don't know if she has the 16520 case. I have read that MQ can be difficult to deal with and sending money to Vietnam has never excited me. From time to time people around here have built the 16520, but Ubiquitous, Randy, is the only one I remember. Haven't seen him around in a while but he was very helpful to me in the early days when I was building franken DJs- but that was 15 years ago!

Phong comes to mind http://jewelryandwatch.com/contents/en-us/d145.html You might check rubyswatch.com- there's a listing for the case but nothing shown. http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=122&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 Minh Quy is another possibility.

Welcome aboard! Here's an easy one- rafflesdials.com https://rafflesdials.com/watch-dial/milsub-dials/ The 26 mm dial is for a Rolex case or decent quality replica case. The 29 mm dial is for the standard chinese replica cases. You might check raffles for a crown- not sure what he has, but it would be rep. I don't know of anyone in the LA area but check around. Good luck

The ARF 16610 is a decent place to start- hope it's still available. https://trustytimewatch88.io/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=22886 TC is gone, JF is gone and maybe morphed into ARF, but that's about all there is today. The Startime supply 16610 replacement case hasn't been seen in a while, so I guess it's gone. https://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=1610bc009d0487e9e0bcab63d8a20f30&Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1_07_1D_Rolex_Case&Product_Code= It looks like the Trusty ARF has a SH3135 movement- I didn't do well with mine- bad autowind assembly, and weak date change and decent parts to fix was going to be too expensive. I opted instead to get a VR3135 for around $160 and it's doing fine. The BP 16610 may still be around and is a cheaper alternative- it looks ok but has a non-gen bezel assembly. TC went to Ginault and a few people have used the Ginault case as a basis to build a 16610 but that's a more expensive path to take- could easily run $1500-2000 or more.

The VR 3135 is the best clone movement. I personally wouldn't buy a watch with the clone 3235 movement- not sure how reliable they are. Another choice is to get a DJ with the A2824- at least watchmakers can deal with that movement.

I always think of F520117 as the original noob. Later there was one- M092117, a second gen noob. After that I moved on to an MBW, WM9 and ST3035 because of the gen like construction. TC, JF and ARF(?) followed. I think of the other SNs- like D320840 as cartel watches. One of the earliest of the cartel subs was R863698, also seen as Y863698. Sometimes these cartel cases would be used for other watches like the GMTs and YMs- the chinese would just swap out for the appropriate bezel insert. They could be made into decent reps by trimming the cgs, swapping out the bezel insert and maybe installing a gen crown and tube. I do have a Y863698 sub case that's in decent shape- trimmed cgs, decent insert. With a noob dial, some hands and a movement, I could build a budget/beater 16610, but I need another beater like a hole in the head.

Finding a watch case with a plastic crystal is going to be a challenge. I didn't see anything on eBay. It looks like Rubyswatch.com has them Products | Ruby Watches (rubyswatch.com) But I would figure around $600 for a case. Yuk! I didn't look at Ruby's dials- I'd allow $350-400 though just as a guess. Gone are the days when you could build a rep for a decent price. Back in the day- maybe around 2009 I built a 1016: Case- DJ 1601 from Andrew Shear- $132 Dial from LHOOQ- $125- this was a gift in that it was relumed in a vintage relume 2824-2- Swiss NOS- $80 hands from Clark's- say $15 good lume also crown- 24-6000- $35 crystal from Clark's $20 JMB smooth bezel $50- you can't beat that anymore since Justin has retired Mary's bracelet- $55 Watchmaker to put the parts together- $50 So, I spent a little over $600. Watch is WR- at least in the pool. Oh, I used the Clark's DJ springbars, because I wasn't going to drill the DJ lugs to Explorer spec- too close for comfort. But the DJ pins fill the lugholes nicely. I'd figure the big question is can you fit a plastic crystal to a rafflesdials.com explorer case? I'd think it can be done with a little bit of work. And a few plastic crystals!

I don't think JMB is doing the Explorer cases anymore. But rafflesdials.com has cases for $49.99 and dials for $34.99. The cases may have a sapphire/mineral crystal but I don't know if people would notice. You can also get hands, and a bracelet from rafflesdials. A Miyota 8215 movement for $30-40 and I would think you could build a 1016 for around $200 or so.

My first try would be with a 2824-2. Many moons ago I built a 1016 Explorer in a DJ 1601 case and the 2824-2 fit beautifully. If that doesn't work, then I'd try a 2836-2. A 2846-2 would be about the same as the 2836, but they're hard to find these days. A Miyota 8215, dg2813 and the 2836 are all similar in fit and stem location. The 8215 and the 2813 have the slower beat which is closer to the Rolex 1570.

Welcome aboard Eng! you've resurrected an old post that is 10 years old. This is a custom watch that Rolexaddict built back in the day. I don't think he's still active on the forums, I can't recall seeing him post anything in 6-7 years. But the nice thing about RA or JJ as he is sometimes referred to as is that he always was so kind as to tell us exactly how he went about his builds. First, he took a cartel 1655 Explorer II rep with the DG3804 movt. He then modified the case to make it closer to the 1675 case- this in itself is not an easy chore! BTW, the cartel 1665 case is still available as far as I know. Next is the Yuki dial and hands- I don't think Yuki is still around, but I could be wrong. Mary's watches might have a nice GMT dial, but I can't even find Mary's Watch today. Phong is another possibility- jewelryandwatch.com- he should have a GMT dial- maybe not the UAE one used in Rolexaddict's build. WSO's bezel assembly- check out wholesaleoutllet990.com Clark's supply also used to have the 1675 bezel assembly. Nostalgia-2000 on the bay And crystals also- Crystal Ref. # 25-116 116 for Rolex "CLARK" crystals | eBay Finding an aftermarket blue insert shouldn't be too hard- start with Clark's. Aftermarket bracelets can be found at rafflesdials.com Now days it looks like the dial may be the most expensive part. If you were to gather up the parts- maybe less than $1000 usd and then could find someone to build it for you, maybe you could have a nice watch for $1500-2000 usd. Good luck and welcome aboard!

Speaking of MBW, I recently picked up an MBW 1680 from a fellow who wasn't happy with it- couldn't get a gen crystal to fit. This is a later 1680- says 1680 on the case- 5513 like the earlier ones but still has the L462xxx SN. Lugholes were close to gen spec. I installed a 702 tube and crown, trimmed the cgs in the process and had the 2846-2 which I had waiting for such a project serviced and installed the silver dwo. I've sent the MBW white dial and hands off to be relumed and have installed a gen crystal and bezel insert while I wait. Also have a gen 93150 with 580 ends ready to go. I picked up most of the parts 10-12 years ago maybe longer so prices were reasonable. MBW 1680 with swiss 2836-2 and white dial- $350 2846-2- $80 plus $200 to service DWO- $25 702 crown and tube- $100 gen 93150 and 580 ends- $400- c. 2006-8 relume- $100-$150 insert- $80- service insert bought in the late 2000s crystal- maybe $50- they were cheap 15 years ago So, I have $1400 in this watch give or take and an extra swiss eta 2836-2 which is running fine for another project. This is all I'm going to do these days- a good looking rep with a swiss eta and gen parts if I have them. But typically my Rolex reps these days runs $400-700 with a few mods. It's a rep, not a franken!

Having done the franken route with gen movements back in the 2006-9 period, I've definitely quit that path. I built a 5508 with case and dial from NDTrading and a not quite correct 1520 movement from an Air King. I paid $880 for the AK and surprisingly it came with 7835 bracelet with 571 ends- whoppee! I spent $2500 putting the watch together including a service in there. I picked up a couple of gen T-16 crystals in the day for $100 each or so- gone are those days! I could work on making sure that the watch is WR, but I just don't see the point. I do have an older AK with a 1530 movement which would be correct for the 5508, but I haven't gotten around to swapping them out. The older AK with a gold plated case- maybe I paid $1000-1100. I just don't remember. Second watch is a 1803 watch in SS. Picked up a 1556 movement on the bay with a silver day and date wheel for a good price, a redone white dial with silver stick markers and got a 16000 DJ case that Phong modified to accept the 1556 movement. A white dialed 1803 in SS. I love the watch- it flies below the radar. I'm wearing it on a 93150 and call it the Sportman's Day Date. Once again I spent around $2500 putting the watch together. For all around beatability, I like my two DJ frankens- a 16014 and a 16013, both with 2836-2 swiss movements. There are WR tested watches and are great at $500 each

you might try ebay- Rolex 16000 Datejust case

Interesting watch- a knock-off of the first Rolex sub Rare Invicta Men's Homage 1953s COMBAT PRO DIVER Automatic ALL Black IP SS Watch 886678410309 | eBay I like the NH35s that Invicta is using these days

I'm thinking that the NH35 more closely approximates the 2836/2813 and the 3135 is closer to the 2824, so it might tough to fit a 3135 in a NH35 case.

Looks like a Swiss 7750 to me- can't tell if it's a Tudor movement or not- Tudor rotors are a dime a dozen. Not sure about the 16620 marked bracelet, but the 455B ends are rep. But it's a nice chrono with that dial and hands. Finding a gen dial and hands these days would probably be pretty expensive. Enjoy!

Beautiful dial! I ran across this discussion from VRF (18) The Early Rolex Military Submariners. - Vintage Rolex Forum (tapatalk.com)

It would help if you told us what the problem is. If it's a movement issue, it shouldn't be too hard to fix.

you're missing the point. If a rep watch says 300m, that's just what the dial says- it doesn't mean it, If a real watch says 300 m you still don't need to worry- you will never go that deep. 100m or 200m will work fine.

Actually all three Rolex movements are very similar in size 1575- 28.5mm x 6.3mm 3035- 28.5mm x 6.15mm 3135- 28.5mm x 6.0mm But as you say, the 1680 has a thicker profile when looking at the lugs. And a shallower case back.

I guess that the lugs are a wee bit thicker on the 1680. Whereas the 16800 and 16610 share some similar parts, particularly the crystal and bezel assembly, the 16800 was a definite departure from the 1680. The 16800 also has a thinner caseback than the 16610 and the two casebacks are not interchangeable. I consider the 16800 and 16610 as definite improvements over the 1680- especially as noted by the improved depth ratings.

The Seiko NH39 is referred to as a GMT movement but it says 3 hands and 24 hours, so I'm not sure about it. There also may be some more expensive Seiko GMTs, but I haven't run across them. There's also quartz GMTs but I've never messed with them. The DG 3804 is a chinese GMT- I've got a couple that have hung in there well. Next up would be the 2836-2 asian clone with the GMT feature- these are maybe a step above the DG3804. A Swiss 2836-2 can be modified (typically by the chinese) into a GMT- this should be a little more reliable than the asian clone 2836-2 GMT. A Swiss GMT watch would use either the eta or Sellita movement, but it would be a complete watch and run in the $500-1000 range or more. Mathey-Tissot GMT Automatic Batman Bezel Men's Watch H903ATNB H903ATNB - Watches, Mathey-Tissot - Jomashop I'm not sure which movement is in this Mathey Tissot- but it says automatic. I recently picked up another M-T watch- no GMT and it had a Ronda R-150 movement- it's not an eta 2824-2, but it's the same size and takes eta hands and dials. It first came out in 2016. There are also Rolex clone GMT movements, but I haven't tried any of them out- they may need to be serviced and there's maybe no parts avaiable. So you could easily spent over $300 and still be SOL.

The best Rolex clone 3135 movement is the VR3135 at this time. I picked one up recently for $155 shipped to CONUS. As automatico says, you may need to have it serviced at some point- there's a couple of guys that do it- Tickleshoes and Michael at Watch Service NY- you might do better looking for them at RWI. Mine is in a late model TC case- a 16610. I've been doing Seiko mods for the last 1-1/2 years- I really like the NH35/6 movements and there's a whole slew of mods that you can do to customize your Seiko watch. I've used Namoki and DLW Watch parts on mine as well as Dagaz. The world of Seiko mods is mind boggling. I particularly like taking a $200 Seiko watch and ending up with a Rolex homage for $500 or less. You might check out Seiko Mods Dubai on Instagram- he does some cool watches. There's a whole list of modders doing these Seiko mods- check it out at DLW Watches or Namoki. There's really no need to worry about 300m WR- you'll never go more than 100-125 ft as a recreational diver. You might want to read up on saturation diving and learn about heliox, trimix and nitrox. Also, check out nitrogen narcosis- that's what happens when you go too deep with the wrong air mix. Also, you'll need some good equipment to test for 200m WR. My friend has a Bergeon tester and he only tests to about 3 atm even though it's rated for 6 atm- apparently it's risky pushing a tester to it's limit. You'd need some specialized and expensive equipment to test for 300m WR, but if you have deep pockets, go for it.

The MBW 16610 came out around the time the WM9 first showed up. It was not gen like bezel const, but I was able to buy the parts to make it gen like. Crystal compression ring, flat washer, click spring and finally a bezel that fit. It is WR to 3 atm which is all the tester I have access to will do. Originally it had a noobmariner dial and hands but I got a WM9 dial and hands which have good lume. I also put a Clark’s crystal in there.