yellomen

Sounds like a good idea

very nice 5517!!

I'd love some... 1 1570 and one for a modern Sea-Dweller (is that a 3035?)

Mmmmm... you made me curious as i am also wanting a 5512/5513 very bad!! The case looks superb i must say... not only that the case has a great worn down and aged look... the crown seems to sit in the correct height! Would you please let me know where you got it? Furthermore i think you aged the bezel just fine... slightly grey-ish... very beautiful!!

Very impressive!! ... and very expensive... just like i did on my Omega SMP black... almost everything replaced with gen parts and in the end the totall price was almost as high as a used gen

That is looking Great Kelster!! Is the Ref. 16700 the best possibility to make a good franken GMT? Or are other GMT versions easier to copy?

@Watchbuff... i have a 16200 case with original 6mm crown... and of course it won't fit in the tube. When i asked for another correct tube... i got the same size tube again so the crown didn't fit in again. Now i see you file the inside of the tube? Do you have a larger o-ring to put inside or is the regular size good as well? If possible i guess i prefer a correct size tube... but i'd like to know how you did this work for when i can't find the correct tube. Thanx Does the old style crown have a thicker part where the stem should be inserted? I just bought a 6mm crown in original rolex package... and it didn't fit... maybe i bought the older version? Any help is appreciated!!

QC??? What's that??? That must be a hoax to pospone the release date again... right?

Thanx Jetson... i already assumed the superdome T39 was installed as aftermarket quite often. Great looking raildial btw

@Harley... magnificent watch!! I love the so called Big Block tudor chrono and this dial/bezel combination is my favorite. Congrats man and wear it well.

Ditto

OOOOOHHHHHH Stephane!! More pixx, more pixx, more pixx, more pixx!!! Love your three beauties man

could you tell me where a correct GW caseback can be found? Uh... didn't no this... so the GW was only diliverred with the flat T39?

Yeah... but why are you with me in this room all of a sudden?

This what they told us about september and later october as well...

@Angus... did you get the gen & rep SD together for a picture comparrison?

at june 26st the first post was made stating it was gonna take them 1-2 weeks to finish the last details of our beloved Slevin... it's been 18 weeks since and numerous posts of sad, impatient Slevin addicts... losing their mind and sanity over time What the FUK would be wrong with the production... i know it takes much more time, but i'd really like to know WHY it takes so much more time. Everytime a new rumour comes up with 'next month' or 'within 3 weeks'... but never the real story.

they are trying to copy the IWC 8 days movement... and when they succeeded they will bring out the Big Pilot

Pfffiew... otherwise i had to use the hotline to ask Chieftang to withdraw my 2 Onge dials... ...well... now i'll need to find a used GST Ti chrono for a nice price

where is the crystal

nice!!!! The Ti GST chrono is still on my wishlist But what do you mean with the AR being incorrect on the Inge? I'm pretty sure genuine Ingy's have incredible strong AR so i assume it's double sided AR...

I assume it's secured for this time as Angus is still filling the site with info. As soon as it will be ready i'm sure Angus makes sure we can enter the site and see tons of beautiful watches

I am buying a tudor submariner no date... and maybe i can get a second one. If someone is interested, sent me a PM...

Thanx Stilty... that looks like a good solution for fixating the dial. Now i need to find a good glue for the Ubi datewheel overlay... it has to be strong glue but may not leave stains! And... yep... i [censored]ed up the keyless works... probably when removing the stem... anyways the rresult is i can insert the stem for just a bit now and when it's in i can only set the date... nothing else. I already tried insert the stem several times now, wiggling the stem etc to see if things might jump in the correct place again, but unfortunately not Does anyone have an idea...? Do i need to take a large part of the movement apart?