Ronin

No longer in production I am afraid. All you can do is ping the Collectors here and see if there is any old stock, etc.

Request for dates guys... We will need a minimum of 12 people to get the venue 'to ourselves'. So six couples or mix there of. I am going to start with any of the following dates: December 11th, 12th, 13th, or 14th.

My AD* charges $500, and another local AWCI Repair shop does it for $300 + parts as needed (i.e. add $50 for a mainspring, etc). I believe Ziggy does it as well, but I am always fearful of shipping it back and forth to the Great White North. *It is nice if you have a 'donor' watch. That way you can have the "Gen Rolex" serviced without too many questions asked. Rolling into an AD or most reputable shops with just the movement might raise an eyebrow.

@donerix - that watch looks awesome, and great pics as well. Trying to put some wear and tear on this:

governed

Sell

Dame

bird

I think a $2500 budget for what you described is well within reason. Only you can answer whether $853 -vs- $2500 for essentially a non-visible part (movement) is worth it to you. ??? FYI, I have two of these. They are BONE DRY, and chances are good your reversing wheel is sticking. (Open your case back, manual wind it, does the Rotor spin like mad?) I chatted with 'bidfortime' and they have admitted these have been sitting around almost two decades. The most interesting feature on these 2846's -vs- a PT 2846 is they are NON-Hacking. (At least mine are). Unless you did Level II of the TimeZone watch school (how to clean and lube a 2836), factor another $100~$150 to service the Octo...

Pearl

Freddy333, as usual is the voice of reason, but $1000!? Confused, since obtaining a 1575 either serviced, or that you have serviced puts you in the $1500 neighborhood just for the movement. I can comment based on some recent similar dilemmas. I have a 1680 project sitting idle. In short, ALL GEN parts but the Yuki mid-case. However, my serviced 1575, originally for this project, is sitting pretty in my Gen 1603 Datejust that was to be the donor. My dilemma is do I part out the Gen 1603 -> Build the 1680 Super Franken -> Re-power the 1603 with ETA, and end up going from GEN + REP to Super Franken + Franken. Back to Freddy333's point. I can buy a white 1680 for under $5000, or even a Red as low as $9000. Running the numbers I would be pushing $2500 into the project. Fast forward to my recent Rail 1665. It is by no means a "Super" Franken, but a "Solid" Franken. I have to say, "in person" it rocks and is giving me huge satisfaction. I feel it has enough of an RSC Service look to be plausible. Even this project has cost me close to $800 based on Gen parts, and donor watches used to make it. (I should be able to lower its build cost once I resell some of the unused donor parts down the road. Back to the matter at hand, and building on Freddy333's comments and a conversation I had recently with Ubi. You need to come up with a % percentage of Gen Cost -vs- Franken Build that you are comfortable with. Where this really plays out is when you start thinking about Daytona's, rare 1665s, etc. Example, lets say you are willing to spend up to 10% "Gen" pricing to build your "Super-Super" Franken. Gen DRSD = $50,000. @ 10% "willingness" your project budget would be $5000. Gen White 1680 = $5000. @ 10% = $500. (See my dilemma from above) Set a budget / plan. No real answer I am afraid, but hopefully this will give you something to ponder.

Started this thread with a Broken "stick". Here Neil Peart Breaks a Drum Head!!! You will need to pause at :24 to see the damage - kick pedal stuck in head. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztcr-SJy3g4 You will need to pause at :24 to see the damage - kick pedal stuck in head.

Two watch day, modern -vs- vintage:

SOCKS

I am guessing, if they even remotely attempted to get dial size correct, the Milgauss dials were significantly larger in diameter. Even though 'real' 6542 dials made to fit 1030 movements were also a bit bigger 27.8mm, if I had to guess these 6542 rep dials are based on 1675 size or Sub/SD size dial blanks in the 26.5mm range. The Wok is to compensate for the smaller dial..

It is still there. I was looking at the wrong auction. Damn, that thing is beat...

You can make some stir-fry in that Wok....

I want one!!!!

Appears to be gone already Appears to be gone already

ETA should wind both ways. Usually 600 ~ 800 TPD is enough for a non gummed up movement. Make sure this is not your problem:

The "J" count is meaningless. For a short time, possibly still, these were available with either; DG2813 movements (the classic 21J @ 21,600 BPH) DG4813 movements (a 28,800 BPH version - same beat as ETA 28xx)

I think your basic assessment is right on. It is just a 'standard' rep. The coronet on the clasp looks to have glue oozing out of it. The dial seems slightly rotated left/CCW (could be photo angle). The case looks identical to a Milgauss I owned for a shot time. I think I paid $90 with a 21J - 4813 in it back then. Personally, I am not seeing the bang for the buck to go 2836 unless it is priced below $150. Just my .02. Trust your gut.

Thanks everyone who participated in the contest. $51.50 has been donated to RWG. @panerai153, since you were the highest scoring contributor YOU WIN: 1 - Stilty Datewheel Overlay Decal with silver overlay blank (for 1665, 1680, etc). PM me your mailing address. Coming soon, for anyone that cares, I will do a separate post will all the build details consolidated for easy reading.