ubiquitous

If you are going the route of a gen bezel ring/insert/washer, you'll need the gen crystal ring as well. The gen bezel won't fit the WM9 crystal ring without modification.

6502 caseback: 6502 pre-A watches of the second batch of the first series, the last 4 digits of the BB-number or serial number minus 400, should equal the 4 digits of the millesimation number.

I agree- Finishing looks gen. Wonder what the story is behind this one?

One of the standard link pins for the bracelet should do the trick- The pin will be a bit more recessed in the lug (from the side) since the standard links toward the clasp aren't as wide, but it should hold just fine and may allow for a temp fix until you get a new pin sorted (provided you have an extra to spare). An easy way to check is to slide a pin through the lug without a strap or bracelet. Line up the notch for the spring detent in the center, and you should still have a decent amount of bar still sitting in the lugs on both sides.

I've got a 6502 back in my parts bin. I'll snap some pics tomorrow...

Yessir... The snow is incoming... We're supposed to see some dusting on the grass tomorrow morning, maybe more. Then, back into the 70's and 80's by the weekend. Our saying here in Denver- If you don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes...

I've got this one on mine: Only major glaring flaw with it (aside from the font type) is that the depth rating should be 30ATM, not 300M. From a well known P-site's archives: All in all, there are two ways of checking whether a watch is genuine pre-A. 1) The relationship between serial number (BB) and millesimation number (/1000) should be consistent and logical. For OP 6500 watches, the last 4 digits of the BB-number or serial number should equal the 4 digits of the millesimation number. OP 6501 watches are always considered pre-A. For OP 6502 pre-A watches of the second batch of the first series, the last 4 digits of the BB-number or serial number minus 400, should equal the 4 digits of the millesimation number. For OP 6502 pre-A watches with prefix "A", the last 4 digits of the BB-number or serial number minus 1400, should equal the 4 digits of the millesimation number. 2) Assuming that no more than 1300 pre-A Luminor and Luminor Marinas were made, ANY Officine Panerai watch with a serial number lower than BB 971700 is a pre-A watch. 1000 total OP 6500 Luminor and Luminor Marina (PAM 001, 002, 003, 004, 009 and 010) 0XXX/1000 and OP 6502 (PAM 001, 002, 003, 004, 009 and 010) AXXXX/1000, and 400 total OP 6501 Mare Nostrum (PAM 006, 007 and 008), and less than 300 total OP 6502 Luminor and Luminor Marina (PAM 001, 002, 003, 004, 009 and 010) A0XXX/1000 Total: 1000 + 400 + max. 300 = max. 1700 pre-A watches including the Mare Nostrum. How many of each? Luminor, Luminor Marina, PVD, white dial? No one really knows...

EL 3717...

For db2, re: removing the datewheel. Dial and hands removed, this is similar to what you'd expect to see (though in this case, the subject is a 2836, not a 2824): Press this spring here: Lift the datewheel and then slip it off; installation is the reverse process. You can also remove the keyless works cover plate on the opposite side to remove the datewheel as well. Just a little more to keep track of going this route... I decided to post here as opposed to your PM as I felt it could be of good use for others as well. Cheers, //ubi

2nd that! Good stuff!

Congrats!

i.e. he lost the acrylic insert with the tachy scale printed on it? Maybe try King, or Polo... Send them a pic of the exact part, or maybe see if they can source a new bezel complete. Dunno how successful it will be, but it's worth a try...

Looks great! The 51 is a great watch for the ladies; my wife had one for the longest time, and it was one of my favorites on her. Love that strap! I'd like to see how it looks after it develops some of that rich patina over time

I think he's saying that it needs the feet fix on the logo...

I only remember them as they had a huge supply of 3155 movements with dials and hands listed.

Aren't these guys shinmeigu on der Bay?

No caseback engravimg yet?

Good for 50M... 50M dash in the rain...!

Some old pics from my first projects. Quality of the images should be a good indication as to how old these are My first Hommage Project: My first PVD Project: My First DJ Project: Early stages of my first Daytona:

For what it's worth, you'll want to ensure that the watch you purchase comes with the movement as advertised; i.e. if you pay for Swiss, be sure you actually get Swiss! But that's something that should be general consideration with any/all dealers...

An old pic... Here's the old TW Best Ladies' DJ I got for my better half. I got this to test the waters to see how she would do before buying a gen.

Probably no difference- It's likely to be the same movement, but with the difference being in how each respective dealer has listed the item.

Gen bracelet spacing at the end link: ETA vs. rep datefont: The ETA wheel also has whiter fonts, and a richer, darker black tone to the datewheel background. This adds nice depth:

A ladies or mid-size would likely work well, however if your wrists are only 5.5", you may want to opt for the ladies size as the bracelet can be adjusted to a size suitable for your wrist; the mid-size bracelet may not have enough removable links to allow for a good fit, and you may need to have some permanent links removed to allow for a proper fit (unless you like your watches really really loose). As for movements- The 2671 is a small (7.75 ligne) movement with date, whereas the 2836 is a larger (11.5 ligne) movement. Both beat at 28.8bph, have 25j and are fairly robust. Servicing should be about the same for each, and parts should be available for both. Bracelets are a sort of personal preference... I myself prefer Oyster (as does my wife) as it looks the cleanest. Jubilee are kinda rickety in my opinion, but they're probably a little more comfortable due to the linkage. President style is a combo between the two in my opinion. Similar linkage as the Oyster, but smaller links. Might be a decent compromise between Oyster and Jubilee. Bezels are also a personal style pref. I like the smooth bezels for their simplicity and because they are also easier to keep clean. Fluted bezels can tend to trap gunk in their ridges over time. Best of luck in your search! When all else fails... Buy both