ubiquitous

TeeJay- The one in my pics has a black dial, though it oft times appears grey in certain lighting/angles. The grey that I've seen has a radial brushed finish to the ribbed dial and is closer to silver, I think. Cheers, R

Mon- Tues-

Mmmmm... I sure do loves the PVD.

Wowza!!

A fat lady?

>grimmace<

*taps foot* AND THEN??

Dial and hands come around every now and then. I actually have a nice, near mint all original LePrelet dial on hand: I was considering the idea of building another Snowflake, but lately I'm not seeing much of a point in having two black 9411's. If I had a blue dial and bezel set, then it would be game on for sure. That said, this one may be in a trading zone forum post soon (not 100% sure just yet).

As cool as the Egiziano is, there just comes a point where size is simply ridiculous. A baby E, on the other hand, could be pretty cool. Still not sure I could wear one, but it would be much more realistic than the giant E.

Wish I had something new to wear. For now... These will do Fri: Sat: Sun:

Absolutely gorgeous! I love it...

After having had a chance to observe and contemplate this watch for a few weeks (and having worn it a handful of times), I can honestly say that it's a fantastic piece. Great looks, excellent quality and the attention to detail is phenominal. The WM9 crew really spent a lot of time with this one and it shows. Yet... I find myself somewhat distant to the watch... To the YM in general. It's beautiful, but yet it doesn't seem to fit in with my daily dress (usually a pair of jeans and a polo). Still trying to figure out if it has a place in my collection...

My experience has been very positive- Great reliability, accurate time keeping and very nice to look at. Had I worn mine more often, I'd likely still have it.

Very interesting. I've never seen an MBW 1680 with the lugs engraved with the appropriate ref. It's always been 5513 that I've seen. However, everything else looks correct, even down to the actual engraving between the lugs (I could be wrong, but I believe the copies of the MBW had the lug refs and s/n lasered instead). Perhaps there is a new generation or run of MBW's. I do recall seeing some variations coming with the correct sized lug holes drilled. Perhaps they changed the ref between the lugs as well? The lugs, CG's, crown, lug hole placement, caseback shape, crystal, dial, movement ring, bezel construction, bezel and insert all look correct very MBW characterisitc. I don't recall if the back of my case has those machined grooves or not.

Lani- A very interesting post, and one that seems to reflect my own personal view on this hobby. While gen is gen and nothing beats gen, it's somewhat of a hollow experience. You pay your money and in return, you're handed a watch that should, and is most times perfect. And that's it. Done. Fini. Nothing more to do than to simply wear it. The fun in this hobby for me is the research, the hunt for parts, the excitement, time and dedication invested while putting everything together and the anticipation of hearing the tic-tic-tic of the escapement for the first time in the case. For me... I tend to enjoy taking my time in building a project, and that time allows me to become very familiar with the watch I'm building. In the end... I have a watch that means more to me, even though it's provenance and value are limited only to the parts I've used. But it's not about the money. If it were, I'd just buy gen I hope I didn't steer you down the wrong path with my suggestion...

If you're looking for a buyer... Keep me in mind!

Hey guys- Well... I hate to raise one of these 'who has the best...' types of questions, but I'm in a bit of a pinch. My current CG on my Pre-A is in some pretty rough shape- It's seen better days after having been banged up a bit (I got mine used), and what's worse- The pin holding the lever seems to work it's way loose more often than I'd like. So, I throw myself on the mercy of the PAM gurus here; which CG would be best these days for a 44mm Pre-A? i.e. the flat, standard CG (not the Pre-V or H series). Thoughts? Much thanks in advance Cheers, R

I'm trying to figure out a way to build a time machine. Anyone want in on this?

MB, Thanks, kind sir. Been a while since I've posted; this original post is even older yet (wow... Nearly 2 years old...). Time flies when you're having fun

B- T'is my own special concoction- 1) TW Best End Links modified and filed down 2) Noobmariner main links 3) WM9 clasp Not gen, but I'm quite pleased with it

Dems- Thanks, kind sir

Doh. Nevermind... My head is full of rocks. You wanted pics of the links with the clasp closed. Sorry...

B- Does this help at all?

Maciek- When I build these guys, I remove all the calendar components, however I didn't put the stop pin in place to eliminate the date setting position with the crown (since it's the 3rd stop, I figure it's not a huge deal and not critical to function). The date components should be removed in my opinion- Those parts add extra height to the movement and thus hinder the movement/dial from fitting the case correctly (it offsets the stem position slightly).

Hi guys. Very, very sorry for the late reply. Been busy catching up on current events with the forum while I have a few minutes. With regard to this issue- I'm not sure if the actual problem/solution has already been stated as I didn't read all the posts (sorry), but here goes. The problem is that the 4030 and the 4130 have the same size pinions/wheels etc, so the hands are more or less interchangable between these two calibers. That is, all but the center seconds for the stop watch function. The 4030 has a short pinion, and hence a long tube is necessary for the hand. The 4130 has a long pinion and hence the tube is shorter on that hand. Since both calibers use the same size hour/min and subsidiary hands, the sets are likely sold as either/or without much consideration to this factor as the majority of the hands are the same (some sellers or vendors are likely to not be aware of this difference). However, the center seconds is not exactly compatible due to tube length. The solution is to just find a 4030 specific hand or hand set- I don't know of any other way to make it work with the short tubes for this one...