ubiquitous

Well, after 4 years of use, my Canon Powershot A70 is on it's way out... Note the 'glitchy' (for lack of better term) lines going through the image? So... I'm starting to look into a new camera and was wondering what most of our forum members use? I've been a pretty big Canon fan for ease of use and function, but I must say that I've seen many a forum member post some very lovely imagery, so I'm open to suggestions Looking for something point/click for now, though an SLR might be a consideration (I know my wife would love one...). What do you guys think? Many thanks! Regards, R

With regards to a modern (16610 or 16600), neither is going to be very collectable, per se. Personally, I find that the 16600 SD wears a bit better than the 16610 Sub (both actually wear quite nicely, but the SD has more wrist presence). But I wouldn't suggest either for collecting or investment. Now, if you're talking vintage, that's a completely different story... But a vintage 1665 will be well beyond the $3k range

Looks fine to me. It's a late model (R serial puts it around 1988 production range); gloss dial with WG surrounds, correct 93150 bracelet, crystal, etc. etc. Lug holes are correct. EDIT: After reading the description, all the details listed above are given already in the auction. Sorry about that. I tend to look at the watch first, evaluate and report what I see without reading much of the item description...

I've used Cape Cods to bring the mid links of a brushed Oyster bracelet to a mirror finish high polish... Takes a little time and effort (but not tremendous amounts) to get the job done.

Most genuine Rolex cases have the O-ring in the case; ref 1665, 1655, 1675, 16800, 16660, 16610, 16520, etc. etc. all have the gasket set in a channel in the case. The ones that have the gasket on the caseback are the vintage Subs like 1680, 5513, 5512, 626X, etc and so on...

Rolex sells every watch they make. This is true. However, this is not at the consumer level, but rather at the AD level. It's then anyone's guess if every AD sells every watch they 'buy' (I know of some who have old stock from a few years ago still in displays or in the vaults)...

Always kind of hard to tell what watches they have on... I was assuming Randy's was a Ritmo Mundo P.O.S... But it could very well be an FM. I was wondering about Simon's as well... To me, it looked like a vintage Heuer chronograph of some sort (Camaro, maybe?)...

The minute hand is correct- Those are termed 'fat hands' and are correct with regards to the aesthetics of the watch. Rolex uses these wider hands on their 16610 LV (Green, 50th Ann Sub) and 16622 (Rolesium Yacht-Master); their main advantage is to improve visibility in both presence of size as well as more lume area. The new 11652x Daytonas also have 'fat hands' but in the typical baton style hands characteristic to Daytonas of past.

Next time I catch up with him, I'll see if he's intersted in parting with it.

Congrats, Admin!

What the chuck?!

Hmmmm... If I recall correct, these movements didn't have much in the way of shock protection...

For Thursday... Back to basics for Ubi...

Oh man... Classic!

Oh, no... This is certainly not going rate! A nice example, clean case, bakelite, running and WITH A SECONDS HAND would probably command $6k to $10k on the very high end... And as I mentioned prior, the only example I've seen sell in this price range was from the Mondani Auction... Completely different class.

Yes indeed. I'm still scratching my head over this one...

I've been wanting the 116520 as well to round out my Daytona collection, but alas, that secs @ 6:00 mod 7750 movement always makes me think twice when contemplating the purchase. I don't really want to pony up the $7k to buy gen either; I could build two more El Primero Daytonas at that price!

Ahhh... That's the A.Schild (which is actually ETA related). I had two of these- Both different calibers, but both identical in size and date rotation (they would accept genuine datewheels). Unfortunately, I could not get either to fit correctly- One required quite a bit of backspacing to clear the datewheel as well as position the hole for the stem to enter the keyless works center with the tube. The other had the dial side bridges too high; hence the AS datewheel sat recessed in a channel, and getting the Rolex datewheel attached was a no-go. So, ultimately, I gave up, and instead got together with arch and kruz to get our own ETA friendly datewheels developed (using my gen wheel as the basis).

Good stuff! You know... I had contemplated the same thing with my 1665- Do I do a 1570 or go with an ETA? I had both available with the click of a mouse... Just had to pick one and go with it (and pays my money). So, for me, the answer was simple- The ETA 2846 got the nod. Why? Initial cost for one... Cost to service was another consideration. I already have 3 high maintenance calibers in my Daytonas; did another make sense? For me, the answer was no. At least not right now. The ETA does the job just fine. It's robust, accurate and does everything I need it to. Best of all, my 2846 was a 1-1 swap and all of $60 out of pocket. Perhaps down the road I'll do a 1570, but for the time being, I'm content with my 1665's current powertrain...

That is a modern/current 116520. Most dealers have this watch in their selection.

I think Gran or Clive posted this before...

The last 2 El Primero 400's I purchased are as follows: $800.00 (new in the plastic factory case) $1200.00 (from a donor watch; factor in servicing costs with this one and it's closer to $1700). For EP 400's, there are some versions of the 3019 that have 17j (older) instead of 31j of newer versions. Personally, I always prefer the 31j version; since factories can only count functional jewels into their advertised figure (i.e. decorative jewels are not allowed), I feel that the extra 14 jewels in the 31j are there for a reason.

Modern? Vintage?

It's just interesting to see a 6542 in this price range in that kind of condition. The last one that I recall seeing in this price bracket was the one from the Mondani sale; far better condition and provenance in my opinion. Typically, 6542's might be half the price of this auction or a bit less. I just don't see what elevated this one to the price threshold that it ended at. Of course, with eBay's new format on bidder history, there's no real way of telling if shills were involved either...