ubiquitous

Mate- I'm not selling, I'm giving If I have it, it's yours...

Unbelievable, indeed; especially considering that the seller is not hiding the fact that the watch is a replica ("movement is a high grade ETA")! Looking at the bid history, I wonder how many of the biddings are actually legit bids, or shill bids?

If you only need a pearl, I might have an extra- It's just the pearl, and it has a metal surround. If I find it, and you want it, it's yours...

In most cases, genuine inserts have to be trimmed down on the back to fit properly as the rep bezels are just too shallow. In addition, most also have to be glued in place.

28

Very true, Cray. As with anything, nothing is guaranteed in life; YMMV.

Ahhhh... RGM... How could I forget Mr. Murphy? His creations are masterpieces! I love his gorgeous engine turned dials... Without a doubt, one of my favorite watchmakers.

Jet- I wish that my dial were worth the money that a minty genuine 1665 dial would command, but the truth is, it's the MBW dial that originally came with the watch! It is slightly modified however; I had to fix a large scratch on the dial, so there is a coat or two of matte varnish sprayed over the surface Overall, the dials that come on the MBW's are really quite nice!

Unfortunately, it's not a straight installation on the 1665 either. The rehaut needs to be trimmed slightly so that the stem lines up center in the tube.

Indeed, but in this case, the results would be worth it

Hmmmm... Maybe the moderators can move your water resistance test threads to the knowledge base? It is definitely some good information, especially to see and understand how the tests are performed.

I've got 2846's in my 1665, 1680, and also had one in the Tudor Sub I just parted with. They carry the same exact dimensions as an ETA 2836, so they are a direct replacement: Only thing is that the ETA datewheels rotate clockwise, so you're stuck with a typical rep overlay for the datewheel. I haven't had a chance to fit the AS movements yet; both of mine need to be serviced, and I just have not gotten around to doing this. Since Ziggy is out for the Summer, I have some time on my hands... The Schilds seem to have the same dimensions and stem position as the 2836/46, so I don't suspect there will be any real issues there either. The problem I've observed with the Schilds is obtaining the proper spacing between the dial and movement to allow the datewheel to freely rotate. I have some ideas, but nothing really nailed down as of yet.

Well... It's probably going to be less than a mm that has to be machined- Not sure exactly how much, but you are corect- This is to center the winding stem in the tube. So, depending on how much material has to be trimmed, it may not make that much of a difference. Has anyone heard from saabin? He had to do this on his 1665 DRSD project....

I got my wife a PAM051 a year or so ago, and converted it to a 049 with some colorful straps. She never wears it anymore, though....

I believe that the case requires some trimming to the back of the rehaut- Not sure how much exactly, though I believe less than 1mm should be enough to get everything to line up. Of course, it is always best to check, double check and triple check all measurments prior to doing any machining; once you remove material, you can't put it back as easily...

Micha- Can you post a reference picture of what you need?

Excellet pic and great composition!

Some of my favorites for eye candy... Speake-Marin Piccadilly: Philippe DuFour Simplicity: Prototype F.P. Journe Remontoir: And, if pocket watches count... G.P. 3 Gold Bridges Esmerelda

Folks, $850 is a phenominal deal for a 1570/1575! How many do you think you can get, Chris?

BT- Any idea how big that one is?

Just spent the last couple minutes cracking up while reading Eddie's listing for this one. Man, I love that guy!

Wow.... That's sucker's massive! Dunno that I'd buy one, but I'm glad to see that other brands are getting some attention this year!

Tommy is a top notch guy!

If he had to access the dial, he would have had to uncase the movement to get to it. Once the caseback is popped, it's no secret... EDIT: After re-reading the initial thread, I see that the watch repair guy identified this as a rep prior to opening the watch up. Guess I need to pay better attention to posts

Last DW told me, a 'new' movement would cost $150...