ubiquitous

I've not rec'd a single one! *knocks on wood*

Hmmmm... Can't say I agree with you there, Kos...

Oh man... I can't help but drool over this one! I LOVE that movement!! An absolute stunner!!

Thanks, gang! You're all too kind This was a fun one to do, and an absolute pleasure to work with the owner on this small project! I typically tend to keep mod work to my own personal watches, but a small side job here and there keeps things interesting for me Cheers! Randy

Ahhhh... Very nice! Perhaps it is time for me to send off some emails of my own....

It's possible that the entire datewheel was printed with the fonts offcenter, though I would think that if that were the case, you would see different alignment patterns throughout the dates as the offcentered printing rotates through (i.e. on the '30, you show the date as positioned in the upper right hand corner, while on the opposite side the 15 would be in the lower left hand corner of the date window). If all dates are uniformly positioned in the upper right hand corner, my money would be with the dial being misaligned- Possible that the dial was not centered properly when the dial feet were soldered on. Can you post a pic of the date set to the 15th?

Which movement is inside? Is this the Link with 2824, or the Link Chronograph with 7750? Also, is the date misaligned with all 31 dates or is it specific to certain dates only?

Puggy nailed it.

Thanks Silvio!! The dial is a repaint on a genuine Singer base!

honpo/etawg- Excellent!

Recently, I did a little work for a friend on his MBW. This watch started life as a COMEX 1665, and finished up as a DRSD. Here's a very quick and dirty of some easy mods following along the transformation of a watch from one look to another... Start: Close up of the bezel insert- Compare with the genuine replacement- Insert installed- Next we move on to the crystal- In this case, a genuine Tropic39 Superdome- Compare with a genuine flat Tropic39- And, finally a swap of the dial- Please don't mind the poor quality photo's- I told you it was going to be a quick and dirty Best regards, Randy

Looks good! But the pricetag... Ouch! £74.95 = $141.06!! Let me look into it... I can probably find one for you for much less...

cib0rg- For a 2846, I would recommend checking in with the usual parts houses- Ofrei, cousins, etc. They typically have them, though I think Ofrei is currently sold out(?) The 2846 is a direct replacement to the 2836-2; they physically measure out the same, and I believe they also use the same main plates. It's a great solution for the vintage MBW's since they have the slow beat!

Looks pretty deep alright. Overall, looks pretty good for $89!

Okay, slay... PM me with your address...

Mmmmmmm... 8 watch Panerai box.....

Oh, you mean the silver one in this pic? That one was obtained from my usual parts supplier. He had this one mixed in with a batch of white and yellow datewheel overlays he ordered in. Only one he's seen, and the only one he's had since. I know these are out there, somewhere... I believe these are also outfitted on the CN ETA vintage models that Paul has (judging by his pics on his website). I believe that Nanuq has also confirmed this as well

Certain AS are 90/150/22, so the hour and minute hands fit fine; the seconds hand has to be reduced to fit properly. The movements I posted have the pinion sizes as such, so there aren't any real problems with fitting hands. With regards to my datewheels- They are from a genuine Rolex 1570 Very difficult to find, however I came across this pair after a month of searching.

2 of the 3 movements here differ from the 3rd Datewheels: And... 2846:

Well, the only movements that I know of that will take a genuine datewheel are AS movements, and genuine Rolex calibers. There may be others out there, but I'm not familiar with any others besides the ones mentioned. The reason for this is because of the direction the datewheel rotates. All of the compatible ETAs rotate clockwise, so for a 2846, you'd have to use the overlay that's on your 2836-2. Not a big deal, as there are some genuines which have had replacements using white datewheels and fonts with rounded 3's (not flat-topped). For now, until I can get my AS movements serviced (and figure out how to get everything together), I'm relying on my 2846's to power my most prized MBW's...

Ooops! Sorry slay! I think I actually read the PM and meant to reply, but ended up getting distracted (doh). I'll check tonight and let you know...

MBW, no doubt has one of the best!

zeiss- When removing the stem, always be sure to do the following: -Pull the crown to the time setting position prior to releasing the stem. -Never use anything smaller than a 1.2mm screwdriver to press the release button. -Always set the time to 12:00 so that you have a baseline on date changeover in case you remove the hands. As for resolving the problem of the release button- bazz is correct in that you'll have to remove the hands, dial and datewheel to re-do some of the keyless works. I had to do a similar job on my 6497 when I unthreaded the stem release screw too far... As an aside- Perhaps you might consider simply replacing the 2836 with a 2846? The 2846 is what I swap into all of my vintage MBW's as it better emulates the slow beat of the Rolex 1570/5 caliber. To me, this is an important mod; the smooth seconds hand sweep of the 28.800bph 2836 is a dead giveaway to these watches... Best of luck... Randy

Or, don't go through luckyyy

Of all the watches I've rec'd with 7750 B1's, the only ones that were really problematic were the modified versions for the Daytonas with running seconds at 6:00. Had a number of them that wouldn't run properly with rotor or manual winding, problems with subsidiaries resetting correctly, etc. Seems that the success to failure ratio for me is 50/50.