jmb

A lot easier than the one I built! The markers seem a bit off but there does seem to be a lot of variations on this basic theme so I suppose that anything goes!

Sweeeet!! I had never seen the Ranger with a Rose instead of Shield.

Ranger time...

Crap!

Glad everybody enjoys their 14060 Tribute pieces! I'm gonna have to build me another pretty soon as my original case is really getting ragged out...

Been a while since this one got outa the box!

Super!

I have found that the spring stud is usually almost fully CCW (maybe 5 degrees from) from the end of travel when properly adjusted. But, a BCH either way from perfect will be terrible.

Put the "fat arm" back where it was and only adjust the other and see if you have any luck. The "fat arm" adjusts the beat error and only a fraction of a degree will make a huge difference so to get it right will almost certainly require a timer...

It's too freakin' early...

I will have to say that the pad-printing process seems to be an order of magnitude more PITA than making decals! You are making steady progress, though, and once you get the process down your method will be far superior to anything I can crank out on a printer...

Now, I really LIKE this tool!!!

POS decal Snowflake...

Not mine...

I'm glad they worked out for ya!

Ol' faithful...

I HOPE you like it!

Blue Tuesday...

It might pass casual observation...

No...

When building a Rolex people sometimes ask why they need a date wheel overlay since the movement has a date wheel. If there ever was a more compelling reason to build nifty Tudor projects I can't think of one!! The common movements used in reps have a date wheel proportioned for what can be thought of as an old 4:3 TV set while the window in a Rolex dial is similar to the newer 16:9 HD sets! You have to stick an overlay over the native date wheel or you'll wind up with something like this: To compound the Rollie builder's life even further the vintage builds will usually require a font with "Flat threes" and "open sixes and nines". Seems most of the more easily obtainable overlays come with "round threes" and "closed sixes and nines". Here is my solution to this issue... Most overlays come printed onto what looks like a brass or stainless steel disc with the SS ones being the more common (at least as I've seen it). These things can be dunked in lacquer thinner or acetone, stripped, brushed, painted, BBQed, etc., and re-covered according to your needs. Brother Ubi was nice enough to loan me a gen vintage style date wheel which I used to create a clear decal. Is it perfect? No, but unless under extreme magnification it looks pretty good and will certainly pass the "wrist test". I started with an overlay that was on a SS substrate: I then brushed it in a radial direction with a Scotch Brite and applied this: To get this: Which I epoxied over the sanded 2846 date wheel like so: Installed the dial and had this: Which fully assembled looks like this: This finished pic shows the font under considerable magnification so it does look a bit "soft" but this is not really evident "on the wrist". If anybody needs to make themselves some vintage overlays drop me a PM as I printed plenty of extras and even have a few overlay "blanks".