sneed12

You can use a 3135 date disc as an overlay on an ETA 28xx movement if you're willing to destroy it (you have to sand it thinner).

Happened to see this TW Best ceramic submariner for sale a few months ago. Had never seen a blue one before, so I figured I'd grab it. The TW best Subs had better dials with better surrounds than the Noobs did. Now that the BP is out, the difference is small, but I don't think there's a BP blue ceramic yet and the squashed officiallycertified text bugs me on the black one. However, the TW case isn't the best. So I ordered a BP sub and did a quick build. I removed the blue bezel insert and did a quick platinum paint job using Duplicolor, the spray stuff--I'm willing to bet that pilworx's procedure is better, but I couldn't make it work for me. This does give you the changing color as the angle of the light changes, and the sparkle, but the color is a bit too grey compared to the gen. Gen platinum has a surprising amount of brownish copper color in it. Movement, dial, hands installed in bare midcase Note the BP bezel spring arrangement. I wonder if the gen is like that. This is a pain in the ass, but it does give very good bezel feel. Gen crystal installed, bezel insert test-fitted BP pearl installed next. Centering was a breeze since the post on the back of the pearl is much bigger than the hole in the TW bezel insert and I used a lot of glue to ensure it was secure and wouldn't move around. Completed watch (still have to clean some paint off the bezel, and I think the crystal needs to be straightened--reinstalling the BP bezel is a huge pain in the ass) Check out the black hole Only minor disappointment was that the BP tube will not accept a gen crown. Sticking with the rep crown for now. The coronet is ok but seems to be more the older tall/skinny early 703 style. Eventually I'll get around to installing a clark tube and WM9 crown on this.

Which one? Rolex has made all kinds of different date discs. A gen 16800 would have a 3035 in it, and if you have a 3035 datewheel it won't work on an ETA because the numbers go the wrong way. But then it won't work on a 3135 either.

If it was broken when you received it, that would be one thing. But you tore the whole thing apart. Warranties are typically voided when you take things apart. Yes, I agree that it sucks the movement had broken jewels. All of the reviews have said it's not ready for prime time.

If you were yuki, and shipped someone a movement, and they said "I took it apart and now it doesn't work send me another one" what would you say?

Also find myself missing my gen-dial polar Explorer II I'll build another, one of these days.

I miss my modded Navitimer quite a bit

You know why divorce is so expensive? Because it's worth every penny... I'm happily re-married to a wonderful woman, and thankful every day that I'm no longer married to my first wife.

So, you bid and won before you decided that you were going to pay for the item?

Seriously dude. Watching you stress out is stressing me out. Just relax. In this hobby we all have weird things that we notice, so if the brushing on the bracelet is yours, then fine. Go look at a gen in an AD and compare. But damn dude. No one, ever, is going to notice the exact details of the brushing on your clasp. Clasps get scratched on stuff all the time. Clasps and bracelets get rebrushed all the time.

The datewheel can be off in a number of ways. If it's centered correctly but rotated, then yes, all of the dates will be off. If it's almost centered, but shifted slightly to the side (ie, towards 3 or 9 o clock) half the dates will be almost centered and half the dates will be high or low. It's much easier to see a crooked/high/low date than to see that a date is a fraction of a mm off center, so this is a common issue when fitting/installing a date wheel.

If they weren't meant to be manually wound, Valjoux wouldn't have put manual wind gears into it. You should be very gentle when manually winding, and generally it's better to let it wind from the rotor just to minimize wear on the winding gears, but there's absolutely no reason to say "you should never manually wind a 7750 movement." Done properly it won't hurt anything.

Dude, seriously... relax. You didn't [censored] anything up. It's a solid hunk of steel. Owning a rep shouldn't stress you out this much.

Why service it if it works? Save your money, and either buy a new one if yours dies, or have it serviced if it develops a problem.

1) That's simply wrong. There's no such thing as a "powerful" balance wheel. The balance wheel does nothing but oscillate back and forth, locking and unlocking the escape wheel. What you mean to say is "more powerful mainspring" and 2) That's also wrong. IWC actually replaces the ETA mainspring and barrel with LESS powerful, not more powerful versions. They rebuild the movement to lower friction throughout, so the reworked IWC movement requires LESS power to operate, not more. Using a less powerful mainspring reduces wear on the gear train.

Yep

I have a spare WatchNY 6263 and a spare DW 6265 bezel, if you're looking for either of those.

I dunno if it's the language barrier or something else, but that guy weirds me out. He offers terrible advice as though he's some kind of authority, and he has repeatedly said he considers it his "duty" to do so. He's also wrong a fair bit. I don't think I'd buy a watch he built.

Dude, that doesn't make any sense at all. Hands have holes that are manufactured to within thousands of an inch, and they're designed to be friction-fit. If you broach hands that are designed for an ETA 28xx movement, they won't fit an ETA 28xx movement any more--they'll be too big.

Very nice, and I agree that the new SLSD case has a better rehaut than the SSD. If the only gen part is the insert, I don't think I'd be calling it a franken to be honest. It's a rep with TC parts and a gen insert IMO.

WTF are you talking about? If the hands fit and then you broach them, they won't fit anymore.

What a weird question.

... why do you care if you took it out yourself?

It's not.

I've seen clones stamped with Sellita markings on the nameplate.