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sneed12

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Everything posted by sneed12

  1. I had to turn off avatars to be able to browse this at work...
  2. Needs black hands and dial marker surrounds, IMO. But I do like it.
  3. Widely available at every dealer...
  4. I think that *is* a Noob. This post is four years old, back then the factory was making them.
  5. Why unbelievable? It's not possible to slim down a 7750 + transfer plate small enough to fit in a case with gen-like profile. There are 21j reps with the correct profile, but without chrono complications. Seems simple enough to me.
  6. On the Explorer II--does the date jump when the hour hand crosses midnight, or when the GMT hand does? LOL, just realized this was a four year old thread. Question still stands, if you remember the answer...
  7. Yes and no So, the DG2813 and 4813 have the dial feet in the same place. The stem height is the same. The hand sizes are the same. Therefore, it should be a direct swap. However, like the ETA family of movements, they come with different length pinions. Almost all DG4813s seem to have the low hand stack, so many times when you do the swap, everything fits until you go to install the hands then you find that there's not enough clearance between the hands and the dial. There used to be high-hand-stack 4813s, but the supply seems to have dried up.
  8. A21js can be the DG2813, or the ST16. Almost all of the rep watch movements I've seen have been one or the other or a clone of one of those designs. There are high-beat DG2813's. I don't know why, but I personally have seen and touched movements stamped 2813 that beat at 28.8kbph. They were different from the DG4813.
  9. There are 28.8kbph 21j movements. When we say 21j, we mean one of a few different movements actually. One of the most common is the DG2813, and it comes in a high beat version.
  10. About a dozen times. I have a GMT IIc that I've been tinkering with for a year. Mix and match of the best bezel insert, case+rehaut engraving, movement, bracelet etc. I took the bezel insert out to align it, then again to paint it, then again when I decided to use a different color paint...
  11. With ceramic inserts, I try not to bend them at all. When I re-do ceramic inserts I uncase the movement, remove the crystal and gasket, then slip a razor blade under the bezel insert from the side. Ceramic can crack if bent.
  12. I've had lots of luck just bending the spring bars.
  13. Genuine or generic hands for a gen movement won't fit your movement. Generic hands for a 2893-2 might if you have an ETA or clone, but then again they might not and the lume might not be any better. If the lume bothers you that much your best bet is to get it relumed.
  14. That slide rule alignment is AMAZING. Did you have to ask for it special?
  15. Insert for which watch? Submariner inserts are anodized aluminum...
  16. IMO you're better off just sourcing a crystal with the cyclops in the correct (or "wrong" actually) position. I have a spare somewhere, I'll dig and see if I can't find it.
  17. I agree the 928 is a nice (better looking) car than the 944/951. Those wheels and the spoiler look incredible... but to me a Porsche will always be a driver's car first and the 928s are simply too heavy. Great highway cars though. I saw this in Zurich last year when I was there with a friend: And now, back to your regularly scheduled Rolex content...
  18. Uh oh... I much prefer the 944 to the 928! In fact, I just last week bought back my first 944 Turbo from the guy I sold it to... It's got chrome phone dials on it now, but I think I might try and find another set of Fuchs like that. Or maybe just go 17" Boxster wheels with spacers, I dunno.
  19. By-Tor, I usually take anything you say as gospel but you're wrong on this one my friend The 996 is lightyears ahead of the 993--Porsche had come to the limits of what could be accomplished with an air-cooled engine. Also, the Boxster has a distinctive look that's all its own, AND is a better sports car. I looked at a 996 and a 986 and ended up buying the 986; better handling for less money was the deciding factor. I've been waiting for the engine to blow up so I can drop a turbo'ed 3.6 in it, but it's served faithfully for ten years so I guess I'll keep waiting...
  20. Honestly, that cheap rattly feeling that the bracelets have is exactly how the gen Rolex bracelets feel. Hollow midlinks. I also have a couple of Submariner clasps rattling around in the parts box, if you can't source one from alligoat shoot me PM.
  21. She's selling one right now, but note that the way hers is set up, the datewheel overlay won't fit. The independent adjust for the GMT hand is in the way. Since the 1655 didn't have an independently adjustable GMT hand, I suppose you could just take that gear off.
  22. They're readily available--in complete watches from dealers. Kind of expensive for a project though. I have a set of the parts needed to convert a 2836 to GMT in my parts box, if you're interested PM me. Came off of a 2836-2 GMT IIc rep. All you need is the gear for the 4th hand, the gear that drives the datewheel (which interfaces with the 4th hand) the datewheel jumper spring cover with the notch in it (you can modify your existing part really easily, three seconds with a file is all it takes) and optionally, you need the wheel that interfaces with the date adjustment mechanism (I think that part is called the double corrector) in order to let you independently adjust the GMT hand. The donor GMT movement needs to have high enough hand stack to let you install the hour hand after the GMT wheel is installed around it.
  23. Hmm... Sub LV with a swiss movement is worth about $200... same for the Yachtmaster I think. That GMT is all beat up, probably shouldn't ask more than $100 for it. Wish I could afford one of those. Good luck with the sales.
  24. For those who have PM'ed me, automatico got my last two... sorry! BTW, Rick, glad they fit!
  25. I posted this story on another forum that I frequent... it motivated one of the guys on that forum to go dig in HIS sock drawer, and he produced this nice 5513:
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