sneed12

That's great! I think people working on their own watches is fantastic. That said--I would not start with this watch if I were you. Chronos are tricky and A7750s are even more so. Get comfortable installing and removing hands, stems, etc on a watch you don't care about breaking first. Because reps vary from production run to production run and factory to factory. No way to know for sure until you try and fit it. I can tell you that you're going to have a sunken datewheel problem when you install your gen 7750 unless you use some kind of overlay. Stem heights for the A7750 and Swiss 7750 are the same (hand sizes are not, for the high-beat, but I see you plan to use gen hands so that doesn't matter).

They don't make the Fighters caseback anymore. I ordered a new Serie Speciale last summer from Josh, and I got this caseback too. I had to trade for a used Fighters to get one.

Rolex Oyster bracelet links are pretty much all the same. Different rep bracelets will have slightly different screw/hole/thread configurations, but that's about it. You want solid links with polished center links.

No, they've been discontinued for some time.

I just tried the screws on my SOH and they are totally fake. They aren't even screws, just screw heads riveted into the holes.

Let me ask a question: Why go to all the effort, when the rep A7750 case has such issues? Too thick, bezel slope is all wrong, etc. I've spent quite a bit of time, money, effort and brain sweat on my reps--but I always started with a case that was near perfect. To me, the stuff inside the case can be fixed, but if the case itself is off then there's no point. That's my line of reasoning anyway. I'd be curious to hear yours, if you want to share, why you've embarked on this project. It's good stuff though, always interesting to see research and development being done!

I literally posted a for sale thread on Repgeek for bezel rider tabs like 10 minutes ago. I have to re-upgrade to VIP here so I didn't post it on RWG yet. I'll PM you a link to the pictures.

The seconds hand size on the ETA is too big for a 21j, not too small. So you can enlarge the hour and minute but you'll need to stake the seconds hand. Probably easier to just buy some 21j hands.

Actually, if it's an ETA movement, shouldn't it have an ETA date disc in it? If so, the font looks fine...

The date window is in the right place, though. I'm not familiar enough with the Tudor datefonts to know if it's the wrong font or not.

The admins are still trying to fix my automatic upgrade problem, but for the moment I can't post in WTB... I need a set of chrono pushers plus the "0" tab (the one with the pearl) for a Chronomat Evolution, B01, or Blackbird. If anyone has a dead watch or empty case I'll buy it. Thanks!

You don't need to remove the bezel to remove the crystal. As for the screws, why don't you take a screwdriver to them and see what happens? If you're careful there's no way you'll break anything.

It has the date window in the ETA position, but I think it's supposed to right? Don't those have an ETA movement in them? It actually looks fine, but with a terribly crooked cyclops from what is probably an aftermarket crystal.

No. You can swap whatever parts you like onto the bracelet, however--almost all Rolex clasps are designed to fit 18mm bracelets.

"Good enough" for what? That's a question only you can answer. Fitting a gen dial to an ETA movement requires altering the dial feet, FYI.

FYI, I cancelled and re-subscribed to automatic upgrades as described in this post: I'm now re-subscribed at the new $3/month rate. The payment came out of my Paypal account two days ago but I'm not VIP any longer. If someone could take care of this I'd appreciate it.

Why would a fake Rolex movement be Swiss made?

Been discussed here a least half a dozen times. Try a search.

That's an ETA with a bunch of decoration and a custom Rolex-style rotor. The decoration looks quite nice, actually. But still a 2836 or clone. Dead giveaways are the shape, size and placement of the reverser wheels and balance wheel, and the shape of the autowinding bridge. It looks really nice though. Quite a lot of work went into it.

Why can't you tap the rep case? Hole too big?

Borrowed this pic from BK's sale section, but take a look: See how much room there is between the right edge of the date window and where the 3 o'clock marker would be? Now look at the pic you linked: This date window is nearly touching the minute marks.

No. You can tell by the placement of the cyclops on the crystal, and in the second shot where you can see the actual date window on the dial, there isn't enough room between the right edge of the date window and the edge of the minute markers. It's very clear.

The date window is too far to the right.

FYI, a UPO bezel has different construction, and your problem is probably with the retaining spring. Take the spring out and place your bezel on the case. It should fit and spin freely, but fall off if you turn it upside down. If that is the case, this trick won't help you.

Cool! I'll have to try that sometime, the amount of work involved and the fact that you essentially destroy the datewheel has scared me off so far, but it looks great!