bosk

Mine just like your PO's crystal... still wondered how that could happen....

wild guess but maybe the heat retention of the thicker crystal affected the AR coating process?

-bosk

Ok, let's not cause a frenzy!

Now that you've posted pics, I'd have to say that crystal looks permanently ruined. Those scratches look to be deep, and not merely surface swirl marks. And, honestly, I can't understand how you could have done that without realizing it. In fact, out of 200 or so crystals that I've coated now, this is the first time I've seen one ruined like this. The fact is that this coating is very durable. You can touch it, and clean it with relative ease. In technical terms, this coating meets US Military Specification MIL-C-675 for durability. MIL-C-675 specifies that the coating will not show degradation to the naked eye after 20 strokes with a rubber pumice eraser. MIL-C-675 coatings can be cleaned repeatedly and survive moderate to severe handling. They will not, however, resist scratches in the same way as uncoated sapphire. If you do not use common sense when cleaning the coated crystal, you CAN scratch the coating. Your crystal looks to have been rubbed on or with an abrasive material. As for my own coated crystals, I routinely wipe them off with spit and a T shirt. I've been doing this for months and have no scratches to speak of.

Now with all that said, if you are able to strip the damaged coating and would like to resubmit it for re-coating I'll send it off in the current round due to ship in two weeks at no charge. At the very least, I would like to see the damaged crystal in person to make a better evaluation. Let me know.

Here are my scratched AR pics...no amount of cleaning removed the scratches:

Scratches are not evident at certain angles. AR coated Saint Exp. in the background look great but the silver subdials are still quite shiny....that brown dial looks AWESOME with double AR

But the other crystals came out great. Note that my other three crystals are very thin and the PO crystal was 3-5mm thick.

Bosk, glad to hear you're happy. On the scratch.... how did this happen? This coating does not scratch with a lens cloth... or any other cloth for that matter.

The crystals seemed slightly sticky (very slight....maybe its just the negative polarity of the sapphire) and there were dust flecks on them. air would not blow them off. So I attempted to wipe it with the lens cloth. A bunch of tiny swirlies appeared...front and back. The coating is not sratched all the way thru.....probably just the top layer. I'm not bothered since i know the lens will probaby eventually look that way regardless from everyday wear. Perhaps from rubbing of the dust particles on the lens. I washed my other crystals with soap and water and then dried them and wiped again with the lens cloth....that slight stickiness went away and the crystals are fine without scratches.

-bosk

PM sent...

I got my crystals today. All crystals installed. One crystal got scratched as I was cleaning with my lens cloth (light swirly marks). This did not occur the other 3 that I cleaned. The crystals do seem to disappear on all 4 watches. Finger prints definitely a problem. Overall....I'm satisfied. Pics will follow once I get a chance.

bosk

wtf

AR paint? Yeah its prob just blue tinted paint they spray on or one of those "do it yourself" AR coatings for eye glasses

Alot of dealers are offering/selling double AR watches recently. Any possibility that this water-soluble AR is on the new watches like the VC, IWC inge, etc?

-bosk

The polishing paste method sounds like a winner to me. Lacquer thinner and steel wool works like a charm for me, but it's nice not to have to handle a solvent.

Dremel and the Rouge polish takes the toughest AR coating right off.

GL

bosk

Hi,

Let me start by saying I'm pretty much a noob, but I'm kind of a perfectionist and pretty mechanically inclined.

I just received a beautiful, white dial, seconds @ 6 2001 Daytona from Andrew. So far (it's only been a couple of hours ) the Asian 7750 is working great (let's hope it stays that way). The only problem I can find with the watch so far is that the 3 (chrono min.) and 9 (chrono hour) subdial hands are slightly misaligned. I'm really tempted to pull the movement out , remove the hands, and reinstall them in the proper position.

I've read up on crown and stem removal in posts from The Zigmeister and feel pretty confident that I can get the movement out and back in.

Is this task as simple as it seems, or is there anything that might trip me up?

Thanks in advance,

Mike

Its REALLY hard getting the subdial hands back on and exactly straight....it can be done and is straightforward but it just takes me FOREVER. A loupe might help but not necessary.

-bosk

The only thing holding me back from getting one is the mineral crystal. I wish they'd make a sapphire version. All of WBK's rollies have sapphire so WTF? Give omega some respect too!

-bosk

Sounds like u pushed the pin button wrong and messed up the keyless works.

Hello,

I have a question to my Omega Seamaster Profesionell with ETA 2836-2 Movement.

There where a small dust on the dial I think no problem but know I have one

The crown with the stem won

For my PO, I did not remove the bezel before removing the crystal. It just popped right out using a press. Before buying my press, I'd just lay it over a hole that was larger than the diameter of the crystal but smaller than the watch and pushed with the rubber handle of a screw driver.

GL

bosk

Anton,

If you can afford to get the ROO Montoya pictured (Plat version), u should not be forced to sell your reps

Sure I could afford 1 gen (<10K), but I like different watch styles and vary what I wear day to day.

Get an AP!!!! And keep all your reps.

I'm sure there will be a decent rep of the montoya soon:

bosk

The hands look short compared to the gen, which is why I want to replace them.

Get the gen hands....they just look better...no scratches and superb lume...and get the gen dial if you want the perfect torch effect. A gen dial is 150 and will fit perfectly in the SMP with ETA....even cheaper if you search on ebay.

bosk

I have one 47mm 'Big Pilot' style watch and I agree that it's too big to wear comfortably so the smaller size would probably be more usable. I also think that an unbranded dial would be preferable and I'd prefer the 5004 style. I'm looking forward to seeing how this will turn out.

I'd like a 5002 design. Being able to fit a 24 mm strap would be great and would distinguish it somewhat from all the other pilots out there.

-bosk

Look no further than Davidsen. His are the best, and I can attest to this first hand.

I'll second that opinion on Davidsen.

Fake AP chrono on the bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=008

subdials look all wrong...way too close together suggesting a quartz movement.

Opinions?

I know the ROO uses a derivative of the JLC 889/2 movement. If the movement itself is 11.5 lignes, wouldn't that make it on par with the 2892, which is also of the same diameter?

Anyway, here's a reference picture of the movement; perhaps the diameter of the Lemania was measured end-to-end; including the module?

The Ventu movement should be 30mm...the 2892 powers it.

"The Dubois-Depraz chronograph module is used by a number of watch manufacturers in their "high end" products. It is utilized by among others, Audermars Piguet in their Royal Oak Offshore and Glash

Am I the only one having a hell of time removing the existing AR?

I tried 2N H2SO4, 6 N HCL, Acetone, Lacquerer thinner (following the suggestions via Chiefang), paint stripper (the strongest I could find that removes all finishes....2 hr soak). The results have only been scratches to my existing AR coat....the IWG Ti Ingy Chrono and IWC St exp definitely have single sided AR coating. I noticed the my 4th gen PO 42mm does too.

The result that I'm having the best luck with is a dermel with the rouge polish...of course this method is only usable with a sapphire crystal. The coating comes off in minutes Attempt at your own risk

-bosk

One thing to note is for both movements/watches....the pushers do not line-up with the crown. One of the tells of all AP reps

Sooooo...perhaps a rep case will not work without some modification.

Specs on an AP watch:

Movement

Calibre: 2326/2840, selfwinding

Diameter: 26 mm (11 1/2 lignes)

Thickness: 6.15 mm

54 jewels

370 parts

Up to 38-hour power reserve

Cadence of the balance: 28,800 vibrations per hour

Good discussion on the current AP ROO movement:

http://timetapestry.blogspot.com/2007/02/l...der-engine.html

Ventu reportedly uses a "LEMANIA 283, the only movement from Lemania that was not made by Lemania. It has an ETA 2892 engine and a Dubois Depraz Chronograph module, the magnifying lens is built in the movement (one of the charachteristics of this movement), the Crown and the pushers are not on the same straight line."

Diameter: 30.00mm, Thickness: 6.50mm.

So the ventu's diameter is on par with a 7750 (13.25 lignes)....which means that it will fit a rep case. Stem height maybe an issue as posted SD but hands can be slightly modified if the stem diameters are wrong.

-bosk

There are two gen dials for sale on chrono24.com. go chck them out:-)

Sounds like a super project:-)

$850 for the dial!

I swore I've seen them cheaper....350 at most.

-bosk

I did enough cannibalizing with my frankens that I am competent enough do it myself.

Besodes, similar costs were had in order to make a franken daytona; if spending $1700-$1900 is still much better than spending $14,000 then why shouldn't I do it?

And I just found out more information regarding the chrono module:

This module that AP uses is also known as the DD 2000. It's highly versatile, suggesting that it could be used in both automatic and quartz base movements. An example of this would be the Tag Heuer 3000 of the 80's; both offered and automatic AND quartz versions.

The DD module/2892-A2 combo is also known as the LWO 283.

I did a bit more research on this watch and it should be a perfect fit for a gen dial. U can use any rep AP ROO case...under 300 used, place in the movement (which has a built in date mag), and u'll just need a gen dial....so thats 300 + 750 + another ~300..totaling 1350 for one of the best reps around.

I have one slot left for a double AR treatment. I'm already getting the IWC Ingy, Omega PO, and IWC St Exp. treated.

Which should be my fourth watch?

1. IWC Ti Ingy chrono

2. A custom skeleton :

3. A modified IWC pilot chrono:

TIA for any advice given

bosk

The rep has no AR on it. You can see pics of it here. It will be added to my tocabco dial collection shortly.

http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=3257

**Admin if you dissaprove of link please remove it**

There is single sided AR on the rep. I just took out my crystal for one of the AR runs and there is a definite blue tint to one side. Of course this does not do much for the glare caused by the silver subdials.....hoping a chief double AR treatment will correct the problem

-bosk

the deep set date does suggest a modular chrono.. but I have no specific knowledge of what. It looks like a model thats a few years old, it could possibly be quartz of course.

No its definitely automatic.

Just browsing through another forum and found a watch that has a seconds @ 12 function:

$750 only wanted for complete watch!

Experts please chime in: possible correct movement (I know base movement is not correct; but chrono module must be).

Thats an interesting watch with the date mag in the window similar to the AP. If the subdial spacing is exactly like the gen AP, then u will need a gen dial too. If its like the 7550, that's a good find that should work.

Very nice.

So the gen crown fits the rep tube? any info on the source of these items?

I bot an extra dial in hopes of re-luming it but getting lume in between the markers cleanly proved too difficult for my skills. I wasn't happy with my results and just stuck on lumed C1 hands. Damn gen has the 15, 30, 45 and 60 numbers lumed anyways and reproducing that would be way too difficult.

-bosk