freddy333

Yes & another of those small run samples likely made as a market test or as part of a promotional campaign or for a special customer that were never meant for retail sale, but that ultimately made its way into the market. Like the white 6542, I believe this is another of those vintage Rolex rarities that are generally attributed to urban myth, but are in fact genuine.

Gen

The 7206 was available in both expansion & non-expansion form (I have an expansion 7206 on my 6536/1 & it is 1 of the most uncomfortable bracelets Rolex ever made). I have never seen an official explanation of the differences between the 6636 & 7206 riveted bracelets, aside from the fact that the former was discontinued in the mid-1960s & the latter remained in production (on a limited basis) until the mid-2000s.

Not likely, but I will add you to the waiting list (the list is longer than most new steel Daytona waiting lists). Not officially, no. The 6542 was shipped with either the 6636 or 7206, each with 80 ends, which is what I have fitted to my black dialed '42 However, as was the case back then, Rolex dealers had alot more latitude & control over which Rolexes they sold & how they sold them. It was common practice for dealers to offer the customer his/her choice of bracelet/strap & I have a couple of pics in my archives of early, 1-owner '42s sold at auction with (big crown) folded link, jubilees. While I love the folded link Oysters, the jubilee is alot more comfortable &, with the more formal whte dial, I think the jubilee compliments it better than the more workmanlike Oyster. I generally pair my Aryan 'Master with a '58 folded link 6251H with 55 ends, which would be chronologically correct.

For whatever it is worth, I have had the same problem (chipping paint) with MQ's ($1k+) dials. Unfortunately, that seems to be an all too common hallmark of aftermarket quality.

Der Fuhrer was a great diplomat (he got everything he wanted out of Chamberlain & the French prior to the war), but a terrible military strategist. On the other hand, I think your plan is brilliant.

I generally apply the boot polish prior to the varnish. You just have to be careful to avoid darkening the text. The only thing that should be on top of the final finish layer is the lume

In that case, it sounds like a good idea. I look forward to seeing what you come up with. If successful, it might be worthwhile considering something similar to search gens & gen parts on the major gen sites (TZ, VRF, Rolexforums, etc).

Of the options shown, I think Ingod's dial contains the fewest sins. Depending on the look you are after, a bit of enhanced patination, in the form of a light spritz of matte varnish & some boot polish, might kick it up a notch.

Read this (pay particular attention to item 5 under Posting) & this.

Ditto HikeUSA. Condensation on the crystal generally appears after it has wafted its way through the mechanicals. So, just to be safe, it would be wise to have a look-see inside to check for remaining condensation &/or rust.

1675 - GMT/Hour/Minute/Second Modern II = Hour/GMT/Minute/Second

Are you going to limit your database index only to those dealers on RWG (so buyers can be reasonably confident in the quality of the reps found) or will it be global, encompassing any rep sellers found on the Web?

A few years ago, I ran into these 2 teenagers, who wanted to know about my car. As we were talking about the car, 1 of the guys spotted my Bond Sub & started reciting all sorts of details about vintage Subs that only a hard-core WIS could possibly know (or care about). Because of their age & fashion sense, I would never in-a-million-years have guessed these teens were into watches, let alone vintage Rolex. So, believe me, these days, pay attention to the details of your builds, because, clearly, others do.

The vast majority of people who see your watch in the wild will never comment on it. But, as I have found, there is a large (& growing) number of (silent) WIS types out there & just because no one calls you out does not mean your rep has not been ID'd as a fake.

That sounds like a match (Lexus & Grand Seiko). Nice watches.

Certainly, these worn out parts have little functional value. But, as always, when it comes to vintage Rolex, you cannot think that way. It is similar to an old canvas full of old paint having been painted by 1 of the great masters. The value is logarithmically subjective & is set by the marketplace, which is inhabited by growing numbers of rabid buyers.

Still Tuesday where I am & wearing 1 of my Newmans, pictured here above Emerald City

People told me I was crazy to pay $400 (each) for the last couple roulette datewheels I bought & I said 'just wait a couple of years & they will be selling for twice that'. Well, I was wrong. This 1, from a reputable seller, is going for more than 4 times as much & it is in much worse condition (click pic for link) I have also noticed that vintage Oyster bracelets are beginning to skyrocket back to pre-2008 levels. So, as is often said about vintage Rolex, today's outrageous prices will be thought of as yesterday's bargains tomorrow.

I have a set of 2 taps made for Rolex cases & I have always used the 5.3mm for pushers. That said, I have run into 2 cases (1 from DW & 1 from Phong) whose pusher holes were drilled too large. The only option was to fit a larger set of pushers that I got from Ofrei. Unfortunately, the thread pitch is not indicated on either tap, so I cannot tell you what it is.

If the watch is water proof (& you have had it recently & professionally checked for same), dish soap & warm water. If not, spray a small amount (do not soak the watch) of glass cleaner on it & wipe dry. Works every time.