freddy333

Easiest way is to take the watch to a local watchmaker & have him demagnetize it. The process only takes a minute & some watchmakers will do this for free while you wait. No disassembly is required. Alternatively, if you have a good, strong tape deck head demagnetizer (or video tape bulk eraser), you can use that. Simply, treat the watch as a tape head & follow the manufacturer's instructions (be careful not to scratch the crystal).

Ditto above. COSC is +6/-4 secs/day. 5 minutes/hour = problem. The hairspring could be magnetized or caught on an adjacent wheel.

When you click the Post button, you will see a small 'Saving post...' in gray lettering just below the lower right corner of the editor. If you give it 30 seconds or so & then refresh the page (press the F5 key in most web browsers), your new post will be there. But if you click the Post button again, you will get duplicate posts. So please bear with us while this is investigated.

Working on it.

Buyer Beware on that Roamer. I did not see any indication stating that it is freshly serviced by a professional watchmaker & seller has less than stellar history with previous sales marked 'Private'.

Buyer Beware on that Roamer. I did not see any indication stating that it is freshly serviced by a professional watchmaker & seller has less than stellar history with previous sales marked 'Private'.

V72s were used in a great many chronographs, but without a good, macro of the area of the main plate below the balance wheel, there is no way to be sure. As best as I can tell, the pushers on this watch appear to be symmetrical (V72s are asymmetrical), so it is probably not a V72.

Either your case is not an MBW or the end links are not 20mm wide? I have no experience with TC, but it would not surprise me at all if the parts you got from Mr. Slimeball (wholesaleyadayada) are different from what was described. You could try to pick up a set of gen 585s (very rare/expensive) or 580s (sort of rare/not as expensive) on ebay or vrf along with some 20mm springbars from Ofrei or 1 of the other watch parts houses.

Ditto. Great collection.

All that work & all we get is an A8 badge. Let's see that 'Dweller against the rest of the car.

I stand corrected.

  Dial is a professionally repainted gen. The insert came from JoeyB & the rest is gen.

Pantograph prior to about 1990 or so.

'Super rep'? Not even nearly. More like low-end Canal Street fare. Retail value, when new, probably around $25. I hope this is not a sales pitch.

Well done.

Probably, but it depends on what the problem is (most reps come with dirty/unserviced movements) & what type of movement it has. Most likely, these are low-end reps that are powered by generic Asian movements. In that case, I would either replace the movement with an ETA (assuming the cases are at least made well) or replace the reps. Many watchmakers will work on an ETA-powered rep, because parts are available, but not on generic movements, because parts, if even available, are very difficult to source & the cost of repair will far exceed the value of the rep.

The '63 has some issues (old style dial (missing long-tail 3 in minute totalizer) & too widely-spaced 1-1-0 on the insert, etc), but the '39 is definitely on the right track (beat up the case a bit & replace the crown with a gen & you will have a winner).

Remember, alot of fitment problems are due more to manufacturing variability & lack of QC rather than to inaccuracies in design (though that may be relevant in some cases, too). So 1 Yuki case may take gen parts without any problems, but the next may require a bit of fiddling.

Read this & after you are done, you might read the forum rules pinned atop the Introduction/Rules/Support forum.

There is only 1 word to describe this dial - swell. The fonts look almost dead-on.

Please do not re-quote an entire post (especially, when it is right above yours) just to add a line or 2.