freddy333

TeeJay - Glad to see you back & hear that all is well. Hang in there, T.

Congratulations, she is beautiful & your wife should be very happy!

On Mother's Day

Assuming it is a sapphire (as opposed to Plexiglas) crystal, it needs to be pressed into the case with a crystal press. Otherwise, it will not seat & will keep falling off.

The problem inherent with secs @ 6 7750s is the extra gearing required to relocate the running seconds. That gearing is required regardless of whether the base 7750 is Asian- or Swiss-made. Therefore, if you want to keep the correct appearance of your watch (running seconds at 6), then you will need to transplant the inherently problematic secs @ 6 gearing over to your new Swiss 7750 & you will likely end up right back where you are now (except with a lighter bank account).

Is it stopping with any of the 6 hands in a particular position? That is, any chance 1 of the hands is coming into contact with the dial, index marker or another hand? Failing that, it is either in need of a proper overhaul or an issue with the additional secs @ 6 gearing (search out my 'powdered graphite' remedy for your watchmaker).

The 2 most salient issues are the bezel & dial. Unfortunately, there are so many details that identify a Newman (Exotic) dial as genuine, all of which yours lacks, so all I can say is the factory got the basic idea, but that is all. Locations of subdials, fonts, crown, etc, are all off. An accurate bezel & dial would get you 90% there, but I am not aware of many dial options for your movement. Here is a gen, 2-color ROC (Oyster) Newman for comparison - note especially the fonts, shape of coronet, location of subdials & dial texture

The caseback may be pressing on the rotor or its lower edge may be compressing some other parts. Make sure the caseback gasket is in place & not being twisted during installation of the caseback. Without seeing the watch, that is the best I can tell you (before you ask, I am not accepting any new work). Unless you can see the problem, I would have a watchmaker look at it. Keep in mind that reps are sold with used/unserviced movements & the inherent design itself is problematic. So, unless you have the movement properly overhauled & the extra gears treated with powdered graphite, there are a number of possible causes for the watch to keep stopping.

James - It would be very helpful if I knew what the watch looked like. But, were it me, I would send them the watch along with the explanation you posted above & leave it at that. Although lawyers, especially those who work on behalf of Rolex USA, are rogues, I cannot imagine it being worth their time to proceed any further. But, as in all cases dealing with legal issues (especially, those with Rolex USA), the only way to know for sure is to consult an attorney that specializes in trademark & patent law.

This looks like 1 of Rolex's prototype dials? Do you have any details to add?

7206s were available as expansion & non (I have an expanding gen 7206 on my 6536/1).

Welcome. I would begin by reading the 1st & 3rd pinned articles in the Introduction/Rules/Support forum.

Why not just wait for a bit until Ingod straightens out his PP account (or offers an alternative payment option)?

I appreciate the offer & will certainly take you up on it if you are able to source something better than what I have. Unfortunately, I have not seen any truly accurate 5514 casebacks (other than the 1-off replacement Ubi received from Phong or gen).

Worse than all that, I paid Phong's full price ($1,650) for my 5514 case (specifically, so he wouldn't have an excuse for pulling any bait-&-switches), which was pictured on his website with this caseback (pic taken from Phong's site - later, I found out that this was a pic of a 1-off replacement caseback he sent to Ubi) but received this caseback (pic taken from Phong's site) It may be difficult to see in this pic, but the coronet looks like a cheap fake & none of the text is straight (ROLEX looks like a wavy line). Long story short, after receiving 3 replacements over a period of more than 2 years, each worse than the previous (with the last 2 looking exactly the same even though the last was supposedly made from new (perfect) artwork), I finally surrendered & decided to continue the search for another caseback (seller) or gen parts. Oh & right after I returned my original caseback to Phong, it appeared on his website as the caseback for his 5514 case. Is there anything we can do about Phong's prices & questionable marketing practices? I doubt it. & since he still sells some good items, I think you just have to deal with Phong as you do Mr. Slimeball. That is, use him as a last resort & pay him only what you can afford to lose in a gamble.

My blingfest Daytona was calling me today, so that is what I wore

Well done & the results speak for themselves.

A yellow matte varnish spray will yellow the lume (along with the rest of the dial) or a plain (non-yellow) matte varnish will slightly whiten it. Search this forum for 'matte varnish' for pics & additional details.

If it is any consolation, I had the same problem. This was also the instigating factor that convinced me to replace the ETA2846 with a gen 1575. Problem solved.