freddy333

There are a myriad of reasons (all good) to switch from IE to Firefox (latest version), but chief among them is Firefox's ability (with the free 'NoScript' & 'AdBlock Plus' add-ons) to block ads, animations, malicious scripts, etc, all of which makes pages load much faster & with few (or no) ads. I think it also seems to handle the new RWG code better than IE8 (or IE7).

Still Friday here & I have been wearing this But switching over to this when I go out to dinner

No idea how much work will be required to mod the case to fit the movement, but I can tell you that the 1560 is incorrect for a SD (the 1560 was used in the late 70s for the last of the 5512 Subs though). Of course, from the outside, no one will know the difference, so you can certainly use it if you can find a watchsmith willing to do the work on your case. I can tell you that the movement is gen (real) & the seller is generally reliable. Beyond that, the ball is in your court.

Excellent review & info, Ziggy. I am a bit surprised to see such a mess coming from Seagull since alot of vintage Daytona reps have Seagull movements, which have proven to be not only bulletproof & reliable but with a silky smooth feel to them.

Samurai - you may be right. I just cleared my cookies again & it worked. Thank you.

What skin? I never selected any skin. I am using the RWG (Original) in the drop down box at the bottom left corner of the page. Clicking outside the box does nothing. I had this happen once before & I remember there was a switch that toggled it on/off, but now I cannot find it. Tried that (more than once). No go. There is a switch somewhere?

Ditto Diesel. I would also use the search feature to locate & read Ziggyzumba's reviews on the Asian 7750 secs at 6 movement that runs the 'better' versions of modern Daytona reps. After that, search out the 'powdered graphite' tutorial, which explains how to remedy the movement's primary issue. And welcome to RWG.

Happy Birthday! Now, about those pics?

Another great find, JoJo. I realize it is sacrilege, but, considering the color of the index marker lume, I would be tempted to relume the hands to match. With a formal watch in such pristine condition, I think the darkened hand lume detracts much more than it adds (on a tool watch, the opposite tends to be the case).

Looks good, Lani.

It all looks gen to me as well. Perhaps, not all of the parts the watch originally left the factory with, but I would hazard a guess that the watch has been as it appears in the pics for many years. And the seller is about as reliable as you can get.

I have 2 of Chris's flat tops en route & I agree that (proper) brushing of the metal would ice the cake. But having that flat-top 3 is the main attraction & as long as the alignment is correct, I will not complain. By the way, is that a scratch I see in the datewheel?

Today, I am carrying

A rosy way to end the work week

The last 2 I saw went for something in the mid-200s & I would expect this 1 to do the same. Since the book went out of print last year, they have become instant collectors' items with similarly collectors' item value. But whatever its cost, if you are a serious Daytona collector, this is THE Bible.

Post pics of the options & we will tell you.

I believe the bezels are made to fit the aftermarket crystals DW's cases generally ship with, which are a slightly lighter gauge than the Rolex crystals. So you will need to trim some metal from the inside of the bezel.

I had to remove some metal from the outside edge of the calendar ring on the 1575 to get it to seat correctly in my MBW 1665 case (you might be able to locate the thread that described the work via the search). However, I had no problem getting the 1520 to fit in my MBW 5514 case. Both stems are correctly aligned.

Enough time spent in the gold mines, now it is back to reality

Rolex calls these bracelets 'capped-gold', but you can use whatever term you prefer. I have only seen this bracelet once before on a gold Air King 5520, which is itself rather rare. There is some logic in your premise, but I have never seen Rolex fit Oyster pushers to a non-Oyster case & I doubt they would ever do that either purposely or by mistake. That said, I have little doubt that there are gen Daytonas out there that have been 'upgraded' (by non-Rolex watchmakers), but I think that anyone with more than a rudimentary knowledge of vintage Rolex would (correctly) view such a watch with great suspicion & would assume, also, that the watch is likely a fake or franken. Since DW's cases have 1 of the generally reliable marks of a gen (asymmetrical pushers) & gold Newmans are such oddities anyway, my watch would need to have some kind of glaring mistake for most WIS types to recognize it as a franken. Unfortunately, Oyster pushers on a non-Oyster case is 1 of the 1st things any Rolex WIS looks for, so getting the correct pushers installed are at the top of my to do list.

Ofrei sells packages of assorted screws (not blued, but I doubt that anyone will notice) that will contain some that fit your bridge. Try Bergeon Assortment of Screws, 10229 Watch Bridge Screws (BERG-10229).

Cost & reliability. I may, at some point in the future, convert over to V72, but (excepting the incorrect pushers, which DW thinks he can correct soon) I am quite happy with the watch the way it is. I overhauled the movement prior to assembly & the A7750 is alot easier to work on than a V72. 1 of my other V72 Newmans has developed a winding problem (the stem is stuck & the movement will not wind) & my last V72 overhaul was enough of a nightmare that I may just send the 'winding problem' to Ziggy. When I balance the 7750's lower cost & ease-of-repair against the V72's slightly more accurate subdials (in the case of Newman dials), there just is not enough there to sway me over.