freddy333

I have been wearing the 7016 all day (Sunday)

Anyone know where I can get a square (4mm x 6mm) pusher like these To replace 1 that fell out on the other side Ofrei's are too small (2mm x 5mm)

Delta - For the initial phase of my 6542 project I needed a cheap, vintage gmt dial & movement, so I bought a 1675 from either Josh or Andrew (I cannot remember which). As a 1675 rep, it leaves alot to be desired because the case & caseback are actually etched with 5513 markings. Now, you will probably want Coke instead of Pepsi, but the bezel looks pretty accurate to me & it functions perfectly. More importantly, these bezels fit onto a number of other cases (including an MBW 5513) & vice-versa, so they may fit your case as well (the bezel OD is 40mm) p.s. As it turns out, if I grind down the sides, this case is almost the perfect dimensions to host a gen 1030 for my 6536 project (talk about recycling).

Ditto.

Yes.

The only way to know is to take it to a watchmaker & have him test it on a timer.

Talk about understatement. It looks like someone is going to have an f'ing Great Weekend. Hard to top Justasgood's Friday evening, but I am off to dinner with Comex

Nice. Thanks.

Here is the bare 1030 (fitted with the un-vintagized hands) with a couple more of the 6536 parts Now, if the Silix boys would quit playing & get my case shipped before I end up in a

I think what Laz is trying (correctly) to say is that you should peruse the Collectors' offerings (see the Collectors forum from the main RWG menu) & contact whichever collector has the bracelet you want. The next option is to peruse ebay for a gen. Or combine both options (buy a rep bracelet from 1 of the collectors here & a gen clasp and/or end links on ebay) & build your own franken bracelet.

My thoughts exactly. So what did you do.........build him a new room or something?

Thanks. Here are a couple of macros of the gilt hands

The trick is to either de-select those areas where you want to retain detail or to layer the image & paste in an unfiltered portion on top of the filtered image. In the case of the box picture, I think I used layers, which is why the dial retained its detail. But, again, the purpose of the layering was to help me focus & direct the viewer's eye where I wanted it - in this case, onto the dial. It makes an image more instantly eye-catching & generally easier to view.

Ending the workweek (Friday) with my beater

Very professional work - you sold me. I did something similar a couple of years ago for a vintage Daytona, but just for my own amusement But after teasing myself with a fantasy advertisement, I decided I needed a fantasy box. So I took this picture of my 6239 Modded it a bit in psp And then tweaked the perspective to fit the pic on the front of my 6239 box (created in psp) I thought that since I had already designed the box, Rolex might want to re-release the watch that goes inside it. But no such luck.

Rodico is great for removing fingerprints, debris & smudges from dials. However, it is kind of unwieldy for small, tight spaces. It also retains whatever it collects & also soaks up oils from your fingers. So, unless the Rodico is fresh & unhandled, it is not the best tool for cleaning crystals.

Anyone know where I can get a square (4mm x 6mm) pusher like these To replace 1 that fell out on the other side Ofrei's are too small (2mm x 5mm)

Congrads, Lani. A real beauty (even if it came that way).

Alot of heavy metal today gents & a great 1st wristie (& Sub) from ammandel. Seeing the light at the end-of-the-week tunnel today (Thursday) with my beater

Close, but wrong model. This ad is for the earlier (non-Oyster) 6239, not the later (Oyster) 6263. I think Eunomians hit the nail on the head (& nice to see you posting again Euno).

Sorry to hear this, but the victim ought to run FULL scans (with the latest signature files) of their computer for viruses AND spyware, especially if they store passwords & the like on it.

I use Windex & a lint-free cloth or Viva paper towel to clean the crystal & case before installing the movement. As a final check (because there are always a few specs of dust that adhere to the inside face of the crystal no matter how well you clean it), I place the open case onto a shiny, dark surface (a green leather Rolex card case works well), which makes it easy to see any debris that remains Then I use a can of compressed air to blow out the debris. Once the crystal looks completely clear, I reinstall the movement & close the case. Works every time.

Read this.

Good work, Pierre. If you are disassembling movements, you must have the proper oils (& oilers), but a timing machine is definitely more of a convenience since you can time a watch quite accurately without 1.