freddy333

That is what I thought, but I do not have any spare dial spacers to test it out. I could not find them listed on any of the watch parts suppliers' sites. But my worry is that a dial spacer will either not provide sufficient clearance to bring the stem up into alignment with the hole or, if it does, it will leave the movement too far from the dial so the hands will not fit onto the cannon pinion. Were you able to get it to work on your MBW 5513?

Yes, to allow space for the movement locking screws to enter the case, but that is not the issue here. What I am trying to find out is whether the 1570 will fit into the MBW/MBK 5513 case so that its stem will line up properly with the stem hole in the case? Or do you need to use a spacer or does the case require additional grinding to get the stem to line up? I am trying to avoid this problem that I had with another case

Has anyone installed a gen Rolex 1570 into an MBW/MBK 5513 Sub case? If so, did the case require any spacers or modifications, or did the movement fit as-is?

My beater today

I agree. It is either topped with plastic or some type of hardened paint. I doubt there is anything ceramic in the insert. But, whatever it is, as long as it does not get scratched, it looks great.

I would hate to even think about what you paid for that dial.

Based on what went into it, I am sure it is an amazing piece. But it is hard to see anything from your pictures. You should do 2 things - learn how to use the white balance & macro settings on your camera, so you can post pictures that include details, & 'vintagize' your watch, at least a bit. Rolex made Comex watches for serious divers who wore these (20+ year old) 'tools' while working on oil rigs or bridges or something like that, so the case will be anything but pristine. At the very least, you need to wear down the sharp edges & add at least a few scratches & dings (small dents). Then snap some new pics & post them to photobucket.com so you can then post more viewable 800x600pixel or 1024x768pixel pics here.

The ceramic GMTII uses a 7mm Triplock crown, but the non-c GMTII uses a 6mm Twinlock. The 603 is the current version of the Twinlock, but older GMTIIs could have used a 600 or 602 (slight differences in shape & dimension). Again, check with By-Tor, who knows much more about modern GMTs than I do.

Throw a few gen parts its way & you end up with this You cannot make a wrong decision either way.

Newman (with the small boxes in the subdials) is my favorite, but the non-Newmans, while carrying nearly the same WIS weight, will be alot more believable in a wider range of everyday environments. That is, you could wear a non-Newman to the local pub & still keep your head up (at least for a while), whereas even I would be pretty incredulous of some pisser wearing a 30k+ pound watch in a boozer. But make sure DW understands that you need the 7750 & not the V72/V23 dial & get the black with white subdials. I think that is the most accurate & all-around sportiest option p.s. If your watch has screw pushers, tell DW you need a dial that says 'Oyster'. I am not sure he is aware of the difference, so it is probably wise to assume the worst & tell him.

Thanks, he is leaving for Singapore in the next day or so (he is currently at the Macau hotel, just in case there is something he should visit there).

Sorry to hear that. Have you tried pulling the stem out (all the way) to the time-setting position & running the hands around through a full 24-hour cycle? Some have reported that that resets an errant movement. Certainly worth a try considering. My chs still looking fine & keeping COSC time.

I have a friend who will be visiting Singapore & Vietnam over the next few days (staying at the Macau Veneitan Hotel) & he wants to know if there are any rep-related shops or dealers in the nearby area that NDTrading or similar quality reps?

I do not think DW (or anyone else that I know of) is selling 7750 Daytona dials separately. He (or Phong - j&w) might make an exception if you ask, but I have only seen the assembled 7750 watches listed for sale. You can contact DW (or Phong) through his ioffer page. Diesel - if you do not minding spending a bit more, why not just buy 1 of DW's assembled 7750s? They have asymmetrical pushers, look & function great, & the price is very reasonable. Ask DW for details.

ebay or Rolex. You will need to do the serious searching, but a quick search turned up a crown & a tube (though I have had good luck with Ofrei's Swiss-made aftermarket tubes - you need to choose new or old style depending on your crown & the tube tool you have). I am better with the early vintage GMTs, but I believe the 1675x GMTII uses the 6mm 24-603 crown & 24-6030 tube. Double-check with By-Tor before ordering anything, since he is the expert on the modern GMT. Relatively speaking, yes. But it all depends on the state of your case (what crown/tube is currently fitted in it) & your experience level. Basically, you need to remove the movement & unscrew the tube from the case. Assuming the tube is aftermarket, you will need to slide a small 3-sided file into the center of the tube, wedge it in so it 'grabs' the inside wall of the tube & unscrew (in some cases, you may need to moderately heat the case if the tube was cemented into the case). Then, depending on the condition of the threading in the case, you may be able to simply screw the new tube in or, if the existing threads either do not match the new tube's threads or if they are worn/crossthreaded, you may need to tap the hole to renew the threads using the appropriate Rolex tap

When wearing a nice watch with a long-sleeved shirt, do you (generally) wear your sleeves........ rolled up or buttoned down

Ending the workweek (Friday) with my beater

Ditto.

Both. I think that anyone with more than 2 working watches, is, by default, a collector since, at any given time, at least 1 watch will always be sitting idle while the other is being worn. I also have some watches that I never wear because they are not my style, but I can appreciate their beauty from afar. The new Rolex Deepsea is 1 of the watches that (once I acquire it) will fall into this latter category.

A superdome lens on a Sub looks kind of strange, but on a Seadweller, at least a red 1......it looks just right. Well done.

Yeah, same here. I think it comes from 1 of those beautifully illustrated Japanese paperback books that are frequently for sale on ebay. Unfortunately, I have yet to locate the right book.

Ended Thursday still counting the seconds

If the clasp is rattling, something may be bent or broken (are you sure you have a gen clasp?). Most of the rattling comes from the 'play' in the end links (the looseness where they fit to the case). This is common to all hollow end link Rolex bracelets. The only remedy, if you are daring enough to employ it, is to bend the bottom 'flaps' of the end links so the end link fits tighter against the bottom of the case. I have done this successfully with a couple of bracelets, but you run the risk of bending the links out of shape. So proceed (only if you know what you are doing) with caution. In most cases, it is best just to live with the rattling, since it is normal & a 'feature' of vintage Rolex.

By-Tor - What book is this page from?

Have a good, safe trip, Ziggy & J. We miss you already.