freddy333

As Avitt said, the V72 dials are not compatible with 7750 movements. As far as I know, DW is only selling assembled 7750 watches. I have not seen any 7750 Daytona dials being sold separately, but you might email DW through his ioffer page & inquire.

Wednesday & still wearing this

The ST-19 is 1 of the best movements out there. Not only is it an ultra-reliable workhorse, but it feels & operates with silky smooth ease. It is too bad it does not have asymmetrical pushers (I am working on a case mod that, if it works out, should allow you to implant an ST-19 into a case with asymmetrical pushers). My Newman Daytonas are V72s & my non-Newmans are pseudo-manual-wind 7760s (I removed/disabled the auto-wind components).

You are likely to receive varying advice on this subject, but here is my take....... If they are auto-wind watches, I would get a good watch winder.......actually, you may need several of them. A good watch winder is neither good nor bad for your watches, it simply replicates the kinetic motion of your wrist to spin the internal rotor in the movement that charges (winds) the mainspring. Daily manual winding of an auto-wind movement (that is designed to be wound primarily by hand movements) is not a good idea. If the watches are in proper working order, then a S-L-O-W monthly or bi-weekly manual wind probably will not do much harm (I have been doing this with some of my case fraus for a few years without any discernible wear to the auto-wind components). If the watches are manual-wind, a bi-weekly or monthly wind, just to keep the lubricants & gears from gumming-up, is a good idea. On the other hand, manual winds are made to be manually-wound, so if you feel the need to keep 35 watches fully-wound, knock yourself out--it will not hurt anything.

You might post this in the For Sale area.

And I will bet her underwear is too tight on top of that.

(My watch stem, that is.) I am looking for suggestions on how to raise the height of the movement to bring the stem entry into the movement (at red arrow) in line with the hole in the case, while still allowing the dial to remain at its present location (against the inside face of the case) & without ending up with the hands rubbing on the face of the dial) (The arrow indicates the location of the stem opening in the side of the movement) Here is another angle I know this is a somewhat tall order, but I seem to recall that someone was able to successfully pull off a similar feat a couple of years ago. To those who wanted to know what I am working on (bezel/insert for display purposes only)

The auction price is realistic if this is 100% gen with a verifiable Comex provenance. But, although the seller is reputable, I have my doubts about this 1. Though with a previous pass through Antiquorum, I may very well be mistaken. Still, the Comex label does not look right to me.

Congratulations on your new gen & enjoy the ride.

My leather clad 6239 today (Tuesday)

This is an assembled (not kit) 7750-powered 'DW' 6263 As Ubi said, the case is the same size/dimension as the gen 6263 & I installed a genuine Rolex 7mm Triplock crown/tube, pushers & 7835 folded link bracelet (you can also install a gen T21 crystal, but I thought the original crystal looked good). Here is a link to DW's ioffer page. You can email him & ask if he has any more assembled 7750 Daytonas for sale.

Yes, that is the 'slight angle' I was referring to.

It is a bit difficult to get a good shot because the dial is sitting loose on top of the movement (I still have not figured out how to fix the dial to the movement & I am trying to avoid the use of adhesives/cement), but I think this should give you a good idea

I have been struggling with my feelings about the location of the date window on MY's dial Here are 2 gen dials for comparison (note the location, horizontally, of the date window relative to the location of the index markers above & below it, & its proximity to the minute markers to its immediate right) As you can see, the window in MY's dial is clearly located further inward (towards the center of the dial) relative to the gens, which leaves the dates appearing too far to the right. It was also cut at a slight angle, which, if the window was correctly centered, I could live with. But, as it is, I am not sure? The watch is looking quite gen-like, so I would hate to mess it all up with a mistake on a dial that sticks out like a sore thumb. Now we all know that gen dates are sometimes off-center a bit, but how far is too far? So, my question is - Am I being too neurotic, or should I should return the dial & ask for a better replacement?

That is who I got this 1 from, so that explains it. That makes sense, but I am VERY surprised, as Alligoat likewise mused, that the packaging does not indicate this tube being 'oversized' or non-standard? I have a feeling it was re-packaged & not by Rolex, if you get my drift. But, as always, thanks to everyone for the input.

I thought we already were on double secret probation?

Strange, in all my years I have never heard of oversized gen tubes or Rolex ordering something like that for service centers. But I am glad to hear it is not me & that there is a good, rational reason for why it does not fit into the freshly tapped case. I was going trying to figure it out. I guess I need to get more tubes..... Too bad, because I wanted to wrap this project up tonight. Thanks.

A bit late, but I wore this Monday

It is a beauty, but I agree with Ubi about the whiter color of platinum. However, if you had the gen 'Ice Blue' dial in there, it would definitely fool me. Food for thought...........

Beautiful shot (as usual), By-Tor. Too bad the GMTIIC does not have a plastic crystal, because it draws fingerprints & smudges like moths to a flame.

Has anyone ever run into a gen 24-7030 Triplock tube that does not have standard threading at the case end (the crown fits fine)? I just finished tapping a case using my standard Rolex case tube tap (for you newbies - I have done this many times), but the gen 7030 tube only screws in 1-2 turns (barely 1/4 of the way) & then stops firm The thread type or count on the tube is obviously different, which I have never run into before (the threads, both in the case & on the tube, are perfect & there are no obstructions (the tap runs through the case hole easily). Anyone ever run into this before?

Oops, sorry, wrong picture. Here is the correct 1

Some automatic movements are designed to have the rotor wind in only 1 direction (the other direction is essentially disconnected), while others wind in both directions. Without knowing which movement you have, that is all I can tell you. Also, what may feel like 'free spinning' may in fact just be a properly lubricated bearing. Unless you open the case & can verify that rotor motion is NOT affecting the auto-wind gears, I am not sure you even have a problem. Some movements tend to have noisy rotors (they are made that way), while others have very 'eager' rotors (the rotor may continue to spin for several revolutions after the watch motion has ceased). An overly noisy rotor may require cleaning/lubrication (with a recommended oil), but only a watchmaker can verify that (I would recommend against using grease to quiet a noisy rotor). If you have been wearing the watch for more than 48 hours (without manually winding it) & it is keeping time, then the auto-wind is probably functioning correctly.

Ditto. Gen no doubt.

This 1 looks a bit better