freddy333

I thought the point of the article was that Craig wore a 6538 'replica' in the new movie, but, on 2nd read, I think he is just commenting that he owns/wears a Sub (off camera). Too bad, but I think this revelation will still provide some degree of boost to Rolex's popularity as word spreads that the actor gets paid to wear an Omega, but prefers to wear a vintage Rolex. I think that just about says it all.

Mods? No need to even put it in a shopping bag, I will eat it here.

Based on the pictures (that, aside from being distant & defocused (possibly for a reason), do not show the movement (which is the key to the watch's being a genuine Rolex or not) & my inability to make out the seller's selling history (I do not read French), I would pass. Update - I just found the auction on the US ebay & while the seller does have a 100% satisfaction history, I do not see any previous sales for Rolex (or similar) watches. A bunch of knives, but no watches. At least, no watch-related sales that are recent enough to be listed. Again, I would pass based on what I see. The Explorer is not a rare watch, so I would just be patient & wait for the next 1 (from a more reliable seller).

I am not sure what happened to Omega's cozy product placement deal with EON Productions, but it appears that Daniel Craig will be wristing a Rolex in 'Quantum of Solace'. And not just any Rolex, but THE Rolex (6538 Submariner) that Fleming & Connery made famous in some of the earliest (& arguably best) Bond films. And if you think vintage Rolex (watches & parts) prices are high now........just wait until the movie comes out & every kid on the block (as well as every Asian, Russian & Indian nouveau riche/collector) has to have 1 of his own

Not mine (unfortunately)

Install a gen crown & it will be a beauty.

Actually, that is a very good question. It could be that the stem is too short, so the crown is unable to fully expand to its locked position. Or the spring inside the crown (that forces the crown to 'pop out' when it is unscrewed from the tube) is worn/gummed-up or the smaller, inner part of the crown's tube (the part that the stem screws into) is binding within the larger, outer part of the crown's tube. In either case, the crown is not popping out far enough to engage the hexagonal 'head' inside the crown that keeps the crown from spinning on its inner tube (Rolex crowns have a 2-part inner tube assembly that screws into the crown itself & it eventually either loses its spring tension or the crown just stops expanding into its locked position on the stem) I have fixed a couple of crowns with this problem by running them through a couple cycles of a warm, ammonia/water ultrasonic bath. In 1 case, I was able to unscrew the inner tube assembly from 2 crowns & swap the working 1 for the non-working 1 (note that most of the time, the inner assembly breaks or the threads strip when you try to unscrew the assembly from the crown). If you cannot do that, you need to replace the crown. It could also be that the keyless works or mainspring are binding (misaligned, out of oil, gummed-up, etc.), which creates too much stress on the crown's inner locking assembly, so it intermittently spins free as you try to wind the crown. Ziggy might have more to offer.

All of the Collectors listed in the Watch Collectors sections are generally considered safe & reliable. For buyers' experiences with a specific collector, read the Reviews section, which is there to answer your question. If you have a specific question about a watch or collector, just ask. But please browse & read through the various relevant forums before posting 'Who is the best' or 'Which is the best' types of questions.

Wearing this While remanufacturing this

If that is your newly completed 16520, then it is beautiful.

Beater today

Just to be clear, I said that most gen owners will NOT see the difference (between the rep & gen GMTIIC).

Lambert - go to your local Rolex authorized dealer (AD) & try the GMTIIC on. Get familiar with how it looks & feels. Make 2 or 3 trips back if you need to. The idea is to familiarize yourself with the feel & appearance (down to small details) of the real thing. Ask the AD for a Rolex catalog (some have them, some do not). Then download as many good, clear pictures of the watch from the web that you can find. Again, the idea is to familiarize yourself with the fine details of the real thing. Then, after you know your target well, search through the collectors offerings & select the rep that contains the least objectionable errors (to you). In the case of the GMTIIC, the rep is not 99%, but it is definitely close & I highly doubt that anyone, especially an owner of a gen, will see the differences. The problem with this rep is the unreliability of its movement -- either chs or ihs. About 50% of GMTIICs have failed since their release in July (fortunately, I have 1 of the working copies).

Off to dinner with my (still on-time) chs GMTIIC

Either a dial brush or Rodico (both available from ofrei, cousins, jules borel, etc.) should be able to remove the dust/debris that collects on the dial. But it is always best to cover the exposed dial when the crystal is removed. An upside-down wine glass will do. Like the others said, you do not have to invest in an expensive crystal press. In fact, you can use a small vise if you are careful & place something between the vise's metal jaws & your delicate watch case to protect it. But whether you use a press or a vise, you will still need some type of die or guide to direct the pressure onto the bezel or crystal. Bergeon makes a number of die sets which are available from the previously mentioned parts suppliers.

An understatement.

I agree with Tribal. No big problem here. You should be able to press the bezel off the crystal by holding the bezel with your index fingers & pushing the crystal out from the inside with your thumbs. It looks like the white gasket is still in place on the case. Remove the gasket. Then, clean the crystal & gently place it back onto the case. Then place the gasket (evenly) around the base (bottom) of the crystal. Then, press the insert out of the bezel. You can then do whatever it is you have to do with the bezel & then press it back onto the case.

I doubt Ofrei would have it, but Borel (& cousinsuk.com) probably does.

It may not be of universal interest, but I would love to see pics of the remodeling or the bikes. And have a safe trip across the pond.

The donotcall registry is another great idea that got implemented poorly, to the point of being completely ineffective. It is still probably worth registering your phone anyway, but you have to be aware that the registry is so full of exemptions & loopholes that a telemarketer would have to be pretty stupid not to be able to find a legal way to continue business as usual. And you also have to be aware that most telemarketers, like most gun-toting criminals, ignore the law anyway. So the registry is not going to stop them from phoning. Worse than that, if you register a complaint about a telemarketer, the registry is completely powerless to do anything when you register a complaint. It is just a registry, a source of info that your attorney (assuming you want to hire 1) can tap into to help build a case. In the end, the donotcall registry is just the usual window dressing, another expensive (& ineffective) program that politicians can point to say they have heard the voters' complaints & did something.

Dial - DW, gen Twinlock 6mm crown - ebay.

Sorry, I missed the part about the missing hour wheel. Other than ebay, I would contact a few EU ADs to see if they can order it for you.

If all of the other hands are working properly, then the central GMT gear may have popped out of alignment. If any of the other hands are not working properly, then you may have popped the clutch lever out of the clutch. Either is a relatively simple fix once you remove the hands & dial. What position was the crown in when you removed the stem (winding, GMT/date setting or time-setting)?

It look like you have everything there, so what are you waiting for? I want to see a completed watch, not parts. Just kidding. Good luck with your project & enjoy the ride.

Sorry, no spare 7835s. Because of their expense, I only buy what I need. When matching pushers to your watch/case, remember this Oyster on dial = screw-type pushers No Oyster on dial = non-screw pushers Also, I believe that only the non-Oyster Paul Newmans (6239, 6241, 6262 & 6265) contained the word 'Daytona' on the dial. The Oyster Newmans (6240, 6263 & 6265) did not contain the word 'Daytona'.