freddy333

Has anyone ever run into a gen 24-7030 Triplock tube that does not have standard threading at the case end (the crown fits fine)? I just finished tapping a case using my standard Rolex case tube tap (for you newbies - I have done this many times), but the gen 7030 tube only screws in 1-2 turns (barely 1/4 of the way) & then stops firm The thread type or count on the tube is obviously different, which I have never run into before (the threads, both in the case & on the tube, are perfect & there are no obstructions (the tap runs through the case hole easily). Anyone ever run into this before?

Oops, sorry, wrong picture. Here is the correct 1

Some automatic movements are designed to have the rotor wind in only 1 direction (the other direction is essentially disconnected), while others wind in both directions. Without knowing which movement you have, that is all I can tell you. Also, what may feel like 'free spinning' may in fact just be a properly lubricated bearing. Unless you open the case & can verify that rotor motion is NOT affecting the auto-wind gears, I am not sure you even have a problem. Some movements tend to have noisy rotors (they are made that way), while others have very 'eager' rotors (the rotor may continue to spin for several revolutions after the watch motion has ceased). An overly noisy rotor may require cleaning/lubrication (with a recommended oil), but only a watchmaker can verify that (I would recommend against using grease to quiet a noisy rotor). If you have been wearing the watch for more than 48 hours (without manually winding it) & it is keeping time, then the auto-wind is probably functioning correctly.

Ditto. Gen no doubt.

This 1 looks a bit better

Aside from the usual dial font inaccuracies, the watch looks too small to me.

So you are looking for what is essentially lampcord labeled as Nordost? Seriously, I am all for high end cables (I use some (not Nordost) myself), but I cannot see how you would get anything else without buying the cables from Nordost.

A damp Sunday viewed over the shoulder of my Daytona beater

A good question, but I think it is probably because when the Sub came out women were not generally (considered to be) serious divers. Today, with it being popular for women to wear men's watches & with Rolex having just jumped on the bigger-is-better watch bandwagon (a bit too late, in my opinion since oversized watches are SO 2006), I doubt, sadly, that you will be seeing a smaller Sub anytime soon.

Note the lack of lines on the flip-lock clasp

Lewis, I am convinced - probably a V22.

Yeah, I did not think that looked right.

This reference is most often used in relation to Daytonas, which can have the running seconds hand at either of 2 subdial locations depending on the version of the watch. The current 1165xx Daytonas contain a Rolex-built movement which places the running seconds at the 6 o'clock subdial. Previous versions of the Daytona used either a (Rolex) modified Valjoux or Zenith movement, both of which had the running seconds at the 9 o'clock subdial. And to preempt the next question - Daytona rep movements with secs at 9 are generally reliable, while rep movements with secs at 6 are less so (though there is now a treatment to remedy the main problems associated with these movements).

Since I have virtually turned the 2846 into an antique, functionally speaking (non-hacking, non-quick-set, 2-position stem, non-adjustable GMT hand), I am wondering if I should remove the auto-wind gearing to eliminate that tell-tale swishing sound of an ETA when it is wound (with the gearing removed, winding the stem produces only that lovely 'clicking' sound, similar to the gen Rolex movement). Am I being too neurotic or on the right track? Thoughts, opinions?

Did Rolex ever make a folded link with that clasp?

It is hard to tell what he is selling. The entire auction looks suspect to me. In general, any time a seller (especially a seller with less than 200 high end watch-related previous sales) includes distant or out-of-focus pictures (no matter what the excuse is -- 'I just got a new camera & do not know how to operate it', 'I had a friend take the pictures', 'I lost my camera in a mining accident & had to borrow a friend's', 'The dog ate my homework'), that tells you the seller has something to hide. And, if I understand his description correctly, he is offering 3 gen Rolex bracelets for a Buy It Now price that any 1 of the bracelets might fetch on their own (another red flag). I would skip past this auction.

The (tri-compax) V72 is just a (bi-compax) V22 with the addition of an hour totalizer (in addition to the V22's chrono seconds & minutes totalizer subdials, the V72 is fitted with a 3rd subdial, the hour totalizer, which counts hours). Since the watch has only 2 subdials, it cannot be a V72. But I am pretty sure the movement is a Valjoux GHT, because of the shape of the bridge & size of the 2 gears highlighted inside the red circle (if you compare these to your movement, you will see they are the same (the bridge & top gear on the V22/V72 are different))

Idol hands ARE the devil's workshop........ I had some free time today & got to thinking that if I am going to eliminate the hacking (done) & GMT hand-setting function (done), I might as well remove the quick-set as well. Done. May God forgive me when the curses start flying because the date is 28 days off every time I want to grab the watch on my way out the door (& I am neurotic about that sort of thing).

Based on what I can see, it looks like a (bi-compax) Valjoux 23 (or 22, larger diameter version of 23). It would help if you can get a good, clear pic of either the pillar plate below the balance and/or a direct, full-frontal pic of the watch to see if the pushers are layed out asymmetrically (it could be a Landeron, if the pushers are symmetrical). On 2nd look, it looks like a Valjoux GHT, which I do not know alot about. But that is what it looks like

For Paul

Thanks, Diesel. Always good to get your level-headed take on things.

I agree with the previous posters & especially second Alligoat's suggestion of opening a special bank account for Paypal use only. Once you are verified, you can still use a credit card, but if the card expires, Paypal automatically reverts over to your bank account, which can drained without your realizing it (if you are unaware of your credit card's expiration status). You also have to be careful when paying for something with Paypal, even when you do have a working credit card available to them. Sometimes, & they have yet to come up with a good excuse for this, Paypal will quietly shift your default payment method back to your bank account even when your credit card is good & if you do not catch it when you buy something, the money will come out of your bank account. This has happened to me 2 or 3 times. Moral - Always read every Paypal payment screen VERY carefully before clicking the Confirm Payment button & do not assume anything.

Ditto. But, for that price, it needs a more accurate dial.

Got it. I have the GMT & sweep seconds hands on the movement & I will keep an eye on it over the next 24 hours to get a better handle on whether there is a 'drifting' problem or not. My previous observation was based on a few quick checks during hand fittings, so I could have mistaken the 'drift' for a loose dial (which I am still trying to work out a solution for).

Done. I am glad this was pointed out now rather than after the final assembly (with the dial held on with adhesives). Yes, I agree. I did consider disabling the quick-set when I overhauled the movement (& removed the hacking, which I can easily live without). But I already have some non-quick-set gens (that I rarely wear because I dread having to spend several minutes crown-twisting time to get the date right) & did not want this 1 to end up gathering dust in a case. The only remaining issue is - How to attach the dial to the movement (since it does not have dial feet)? I have to figure out a way to attach the dial that is both secure (so I do not have to worry about shifting adhesives migrating into any of the kinetic components that reside nearby) & which still allows me to easily remove it so I can work on the movement. My preferred option (soldering) crapped out (I have a handful of damaged test dials to prove it), so I may end up having to use dial dots if I cannot come up with something better. Any suggestions?