RobbieG

Uh...the date is probably set to last time it was worn or set to something I like the look of in a pic and time can be reset sometimes to keep hand out of the way of certain dial areas for photos if I happen to be shooting them as well. I also don't believe in auto winders. They ruin all the fun of manually setting your watch when you decide what to wear in the morning - and then again in the afternoon...

PAN is a cooking vessel. PAM is a watch... Ok now that is out of the way, you should start over - although straps are critical and if you are going to own a PAM you are going to want a few (or more) really nice and diverse straps. If I were going to a PAM I would probably do an 01B or something like that. You want to choose a model with a closed caseback as the movements will never look right. You will have to do alot of searching to find the best parts for the watch you choose and you will always need to plan on having someone do your lume and cannon pin fix for starters. Then it is a question of whether you are OK with any dial, CG's, hands, crown, crystal, etc. or if you are going to just start with lume and pin and a couple nice straps and go from there. But keep in mind that you WILL want to keep going so I suggest making sure you start with the best case, dial and a Swiss movement as you want a good foundation. You might ask PAM expert as I have no interest or knowledge of them, but I seem to remember that Angus might have a partially modded 01B that may be a good base watch. Good luck to you.

Yeah, it kind of sneaks up on you. UN stock pics are always so terrible I'm convinced that is how they keep annual production down. If people who buy on the internet from pictures ever find out what they all really look like in the flesh they are going to have riot on thier hands. As for the Dual Time in particular, if you travel at all it is the one to have. Heck even if you don't it is great. It crosses over so well. It is definitely not casual and it isn't dress. Really unique. You can't really see in the pics but the inside of the indices are faceted like a cut diamond and are high polished. That combined with the smooth jet black dial and the strongest doubel AR I have ever seen just makes it look so rich you can't even believe it. They just dance and gleam in the light - especially low voltage type indoor light. You need sunglasses. But yet the classic lines of the case and strap and reasonable size don't make it gaudy at all. Still very understated but yet it pops off the chart. I get a LOT of head turns when I wear this. Store clerks, servers, people at cocktail parties ask me about it all the time. Of the lot, this and the DJ get the most compliments by far. It's the metal man, the metal that gets them...

That one in the center is pretty sporty. Built for speed and comfort...

Yeah, I gathered that. A real UN fan. I have been one since the mid 90's and I'm not surprised there are plenty others here. But I must confess, I was always hoping they would be repped just so I could see how the people here liked them. Un fortunately, the first rep is kind of a controversial one so it isn't the best guage yet. Once they do the MMD I think we will see those really catch on big if they do it right. So, what is the goal of your collection MM - current and future?

I see you have indigenous camels down there too...

Neither Alaska or Down Under has anything on us. The weather is warm here in South Florida everyday of the year and the girls are amazing too - some of the hottest girls in the world. But the constant stream of redneck tourists this time of year that keep coming South instead of stopping in the Panhandle or Daytona like they used to is a bit troubling...

PS: We have discussed it briefly elsewhere but I would love to hear from some of you how you decide what is going to make up your collections. I realize that sometimes with reps since they are inexpensive you can just buy on whims and get whatever comes out that is cool, but I know eventually everyone tires of it. There is kind of a rep process that we all go through of insanity followed by some method to the madness. Just curious if anyone else is trying to limit and focus and of those who still build bigger collections what motivates you other than impulse...

Looks great on that big widescreen. I have two standard aspect 19's on my surfing machine - and eight 24" wides on the main trading machine, but at the moment I have only tried it on the surfing machine. I have another UN pic on the other machine still. I always do these as is. Meaning I don't crop to a ratio so some of them look good strectched and others don't. Looks like this one passes the stretch test...

Still wearing the UN Dual Time - getting all the attention lately as is any watch that is in the current photo shoot limelight. It still strikes me though every time I look at it. Truly beautiful as well as the most highly functional GMT I have ever owned...

Yeah, you found the one Corum achievement if you want to call it that. The Golden (shower) Bridge. LOL. My best friend has them in all three metals. He loves them but they are junk. They have never worked right from the first day. Too fragile and WIS don't really like them - kind of feminine too really. Plus they all lose gobs of time and as such this is why Corum will never have the respect that UN has in the industry - or AP. The GB just isn't a robust design. AP and UN have roughly the same annual production and they have the same ideals. UN is outselling them slightly but it is just semantics. AP gets more per unit for their bread and butter which is the RO stuff than UN does with the Marine stuff - both nautical themes BTW. But UN has more high dollar complications in production which edges up the returns a bit. So they are neck and neck really with AP making more from the lower end and UN making more from the higher end. Very similar companies...

Being that you are young and cool of course...

I just came from Bytor's update and figured I needed to update my Starting Five now that I finally shot the UN Dual Time. This is it. All I have. The rest are gone. I wanted to carefully plan my collection so that one day when I stood in front of my watchbox I would literally be at a loss of what to wear because I couldn't live without any of them. Over a period of 6 months I slowly sold a collection of gens and reps that was probably 30 pieces or so. With each sale I had given a lot of thought to what categories I would have in my collection and I wanted to get to the point where I had one favorite watch which fills each category. I made pact that if I ever had a bigger collection it would be because I felt the need to add a category and not because I duplicated one I already had. In other words, if I decide that I like a certain watch better than what I have in a category, I will sell that one and fill the spot with the new one - but not have both. The reason for this is simple: When you see the categories I have it makes little sense to have more than one of each as the occasion to wear will dictate an easy choice most always and more would just create confusion. So what categories? Here they are: 1. I knew I needed a black bezel/black dial sports watch. Right now I love the Omega Planet Ocean 42MM more than anything else. The AR, lume, and versatilty of the watch looking great on steel, rubber, or croc to me makes it far more diverse than a Sub. This category is most likey worn with casual clothes, shorts, T's, etc. Great for beach days, outdoor activities, sports, bike riding and the like - especially on rubber. 2. I knew I needed a more blingy sports watch with a lighter colored dial with a bracelet with brushed and polished surfaces. Originally, this category was filled by a Yachtmaster, but I fell in love with the Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver which has a similar look except more interesting. This category is most likely worn when going out for dinner or a show or maybe shopping with the girl at our favorite higher end mall where my favorite AD is. A little more dressy than the previous category but it goes with everything. 3. I knew I needed a great travel watch. I wanted to find one watch I could take on the road for up to two weeks and never feel like I had to take others with me (yeah, I still take one other usually but hey). I wanted it to have a great GMT complication that was easy to use and that wears well with everything from shorts to jeans to a jacket and sleeves. I found it with the UN Dual Time 42MM. Nuf said. 4. I knew I needed a smaller braceleted dress watch that would also work with any long sleeve attire, including jeans and a long sleeve pullover for added versatility. I have always had a Rolex Datejust of some kind and still do. Right now it is an Oyster bracelet and domed bezel. This category is most likely worn while working - client meetings and lunches. Usually with dress shirts, especially with french cuffs. Looks like a million dollars with anything though. Small is cool. Less is more. Gets more attention than any other watch still to this day. I might also mention that I have my eye on upgrading to a DD. When I do, the current DJ will be sold and the new one would just take its place in keeping with the collection plan. 5. I knew I needed at least one chronograph and the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph design is my favorite sports chrono at the moment (VC Malte Chrono is my favorite dress chrono!). The design of the bracelet and the internal bezel to me is just the coolest around. I also wanted at least one Ti watch and IMO nobody executes Ti like IWC. This watch is most likely worn whenever and whereever. Surprisingly, despite the interesting colors it is the most versatile watch I own. It goes with everything and the lightness of the Ti makes it the second most comfortable next to the DJ. It workds great with shorts, with jeans, pretty much everything except a suit. For comfort reasons I used to wear it for travel before I got the UN GMT. It worked great for that as again, it goes with everything really. Plus I use it around the house and office in case I ever need to precision time anything. So that is it. It was fun sharing that and I always wonder what the rest of the members think about when building a collection. Such a personal thing and everyones choices are different and interesting. So what is next? I really can think of only one thing which will become a permanent category soon and that is that I need one really nice strapped dress watch with a simple design. It will either be a Patek Calatrava or a Vacheron Patrimony Traditionelle. That much I know for sure right now. I just have to decide and when the time is right that will complete the final 6 piece collection. But until then, may I present The Starting Five. If they change I'll let you know, but I doubt much will and if so it will happen very slowly. It took me 20 years to figure out what my watch collection would look like and I'm happy the way it is. Maybe in the future if I ever get rich I'll play with some higher complications, but I suspect the everyday watch collection will always be pretty close to what this is today, a few substitutions now and then aside to combat boredom. Enjoy... As always, the complete current collection and individual photos is here in my regular collection thread: http://www.rwg.cc/members/RobbieG-s-Collection-t85202.html

Always great to see your collection. Yours was the inspiration for me to shrink mine. You can only give love to so many watches and stick with what you truly love. You know, my best friend is this really wealthy guy who has over a hundred gens, many of them complications. Like over a million bucks worth. And you know what? It really osn't impressive to me (yeah I do tell him that) because he doesn't even know what he has or what he likes. He probably has never even worn more than half of them which are still in the original boxes. Silly really... A watch collection should be personal and refined IMO. Anything more and it is either a disease or showing off. Not knocking big collections, but if one has one I only hope that they all mean something to him or else there isn't much to gain from it. When I see yours I instantly see how you are connecting to them and what you connect with. And that my friend is where it's at as they say. Thanks for sharing!

I had a request for a wallpaper sized version of the dial shot yesterday. I thought I would just post it in case others would like it...

Updated the post with a few more pics of fine details. Still no movement shot though. Light not cooperating again...

Amen. You have just summed up why my bank account is always hammered and I could have bought a pre-owned Ferrari with the money I have sunk into this hobby in the last 20 years... And regarding the Calatrava in particular no truer words have been spoken. If you ever just hold the simplest 3520 or 5120 with the plain two handed dial, you literally just stand there in awe with your jaw open and it is the easiest thing in the world to make. But to make the way they do is another story. This touches on why the rep industry is centered on sports watches with lower price points. I think a lot of people think that Patek, Vacheron, etc are just four times as much as luxury sports watches due to Swiss markup or whatever, but there really is a difference and it is MAJOR. The tiny details are just out of control and at a level you will never see in any Rolex, Omega or Breitling. You get what you pay for as you say. This is why I go out of my way to mention how nice the Nardin's are in fit and finish. I realize not everyone likes the designs, and I'm not trying to sell it, but rather help educate noobs in letting them know that it is remarkable when something stands out like it should be twice as expensive but isn't. Someday everyone should go to an AD and pull out a strapped dress watch from say IWC or something similarly pricedand then one of similar style from Patek or Vacheron. What you discover will blow your mind if you are really paying attention. Not knocking IWC but that exercise will show you where the difference in money goes (not that either of them aren't overpriced of course - but the differential I mean).

Oh, and I almost forgot, for MMD fans who want a perpetual, there is an option for them too - of course as usual the stock UN pics do it no justice with the golf ball effect pics, but in the flesh it is amazing and reasonble too - again many different dial options as well...

Very true. They nailed this one. Rarely do black dialed strapped watches remain dressy and still dress down well. This is the exception. Conversely, any watch with that configuration that looks great casually can't dress up. And regarding complications you are right. One of the things I don't like about complicated watches is busy dials - saves me a lot of money as I don't like many of them at all! This one is a nice balance. 4 complications (small seconds, date, 24HR home time display, jumping hour hand) and the dial is totally uncluttered - plus they managed not just a date but a 2 disc Big Date as well. You never look at it and think that anything is oberdone or our of place. Believe it or not, the step up from it looks like it might be in pics, but again in person it really isn't. I'm talking about the GMT +/- Perpetual, which is the same base watch basically with the addition of the PC functions. It is one of the most uncluttered perpetuals I have seen with a number of dial options which would be nearly impossible to post here, but here are two...

If I were in the market for buying reps right now, I probably would buy the same ones - well not the FM, but probably the rest...

Yeah, I know. Movement issues are the main reason. All the best Calas are display backs and they just don't look right without the movement being right which of course it never is. I seem to remember some solid backed ones - or at least hinged back ones that used to be around. Personally, most Patek do nothing for me except two which are the classic, two handed hobnail cased wonders that every man should have as a fine dress watch - a 3520 or a 5120. The problem is what handwind movement could be used in a rep when the case is 32MM and in the case of the auto 5120 what auto movement would look reasonable without a micro rotor? Oh well, I hope you find something with a closed back that works for you...

Thanks BT. But now you are making me rethink whether I want a Sub again for my black dial/black bezel sport watch slot. Either that or the PO but not both. So tough to decide. I always go through periods where I don't have a Sub and then I always seem to want one back every couple years...

Yeah, the Corum statement isn't really opinion, but fact. They just aren't a serious watch company. And objectively speaking having owned a Millenary, I don't think UN is any more "fun" than AP design-wise. And because of AP's out of the box designs (which I love BTW), I can't really put AP with Patek and VC either. I think of AP kind of on its own like UN. Patek and VC and Breguet and Blancpain in particular are all direct competitors for traditional designs. Personally, I like VC the best. Everyone has their favorite of those. I know Bytor likes Breguet the best for instance. Again, I only wanted to point out that there are just three serious watch brands left besides Rolex that aren't part of a conglomerate and UN is one of them. You have to admire anyone who is independent. They all have to earn that living - and I do think UN earns every penny with its dedication to the advancement of horology - and they finance that mission by selling the Marine line which is their trademark. And a trademark I might add that was once again earned to the fullest by literally owning the marine chronometer market from the mid 1800's through the early 1900's...

I wasn't putting them with AP or Patek in that way. I was just naming independent small companies. UN is not in the same league as the big three (PP, AP, VC) in terms of old school vibe. That was kind of what I was trying to say. We don't need another one of those. Although they should work as hard as UN at the craft. If everyone in the industry worked as hard at innovation as UN we would have a LOT more interesting stuff then we do mechanically - that is for sure. UN doesn't want to be in someone else's space and that is how they stay alive without a "lobby" so to speak. So that said, if not for the "fun" designs you speak of ironically (which is genius as they occupy their own space marketing-wise) they certainly would be technically ahead of them all. None of the big three have come close innovation wise either historically and certainly not presently. Like the visual appeal or not, noone can touch them in terms of technological innovation in the last century. Everyone else is just rehashing the same old stuff. One thing is for sure and that is if UN ever decided to integrate all their technology into completely traditional presentations, all the big boys would be shaking in their boots. But UN isn't interested in stealing anyones thunder and they have always done their own thing. I suspect they will always be more interested in that side as opposed to conformity. It has worked for them for a couple hundred years now so why change? UN is also unique in that the Marine line has sort of typical sports watch pricing and sells to the same people that buy Rolex, Omega, etc. - the more run of the mill buyer but a little more sophisticated as they have to be sought out by discriminating buyers as they are not huge dealer networks. But their complications are as costly if not more costly in some cases than the big three they compete with directly. And they earn those dollars as I said through superior innovation. Many people know UN for the Marine stuff, but with WIS they are really known for complications. GMT +/- Perpetual, The Freak (carousel tourbillion), Royal Blue Toubillion (bridgeless movement set in crystal), Sonata Cathedral, The lost art of Cloisonne enameling art, Minute Repeaters like the Ghengis Khan with moving automaton figurines, Trilogy Set (astromomical complications which measure the position of the sun, moon and stars in the sky) But UN and Corum are not even in the same league my freind. I have to draw the line at that and respectfully correct you. Corum does things just to de different and goofy. Nor has Corum even done one technical thing coming even close to the least of UN's achievements. I wouldn't put anything UN does in that space at all. Their designs are different, but definitely not novelty. That said, I has an AP Millenary and that was no more "interesting" design wise than they strangest of UN stuff, with the exception of the Freak maybe. A well made piece for sure, but nothing that can't be had with any brand. When it comes to tradition, I'm more of a Vacheron guy, but that is another thread...

Congrats Samu. You happy with it? We are having a GTG soon and I'm looking forward to handling it. The consensus seems to be that they are very well made which is a must for UN since they are all about the feel gen-wise. Did you decide against the gold or are you getting that too? Did anyone ask Josh if they are going to update they other issues and do a gold rotor on V2?