japanic

I have noticed that if I change my bracelet setting, the timing on my watch goes awry: Tight 2 seconds slow, Loose 5 seconds slow.

-Tight -Normal (1 finger) -Loose (able to go around completely) Just curious about various preferences in reference to, but not limited to Rolex bracelets. My daily beater is a 36mm Explorer and I generally adhere to the rule that you should be able to fit one finger between the bracelet and the wrist, but a colleague of mine who wears a DayDate wears it so tight, it looks like the clasp is holding on for dear life, and yet an older gentleman wears his gold Datejust loosely and just lets it hang.

Please let us know the results, if you ever decide to test it's water resistance.

Jake E of Jake's Rolex Blog sells his own brand. They are stingray, available in many colors; with stitching color of your choice. http://www.jakee.com/store.html

New offering on Yuki's site. Nice rehaut, small hour indices, SEL fit looks very good. CGs need some work. I think the dial is nicer for the same price as the ETA noobmariner. The only possible dealbreaker is payment by Western Union only. What are your thoughts? http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/7617720/9063669.htm

+1 Also are you really comfortable diving with a rubber strap? I know we all have our preferences, but for me I will only dive with watches equipped with flip-lock clasps.

28.5mm thick That's is nearly as thick as two Submariners on top of another What a monster!

Removal of the cyclopes is pretty simple. If you have a butane torch cigarette lighter use that on the cyclopes for a few seconds (wait until very tiny bubbles form under the cyclopes), then slide an xacto/utility knife to pop it off. If you don't have a torch lighter you can also use a soldering iron, just place it directly on the cyclopes, the second step still applies. I even did it once with the burner on my stove, but be careful that this takes a second or two, otherwise you can risk discoloring the metal. I do not recommend this unless you are desperate. Let it cool, clean with windex and you're done!

I have planning a 1680 or a 5513 build for some time now and I'd like to know when did Rolex switch clasps from the standard to the flip-lock? Also would a non-folded link bracelet be appropriate for this build? I'd like to get a time frame of what was implemented when.

I'm not that well versed in the world of Patek, but is this beauty the work of the late Gerald Genta?

If you are truly concerned about protecting your eyes, just spend the extra money and buy genuine ray bans, a good pair of wayfarers or clubmasters are still cheaper than your standard reps with a swiss movement.

According to DW's site, he's out of the albino dial, for the time being.

It is a relatively easy procedure, the difficult bit is you will have to transplant the fourth wheel from the dead movement into the new one. I had a similar problem with a gmt master not too long ago, and the standard fourth wheel on the 2836 is too short (designed for only 3 hands). The biggest problem I had was with the gmt hand, it kept catching against the raised hour markers, and eventually bent at an oblique angle; which eventually snapped off completely.

From what I've heard, the last non-ceramic GMTs with the 3186 movement had the stick two. In order to distinguish them the GMTs with the 3185, which had the roman numeral two.

Nearly all Rolex watches come in two tone, except for the DayDate, which has always only been available in solid precious metals. One of the few times Rolex made a mixed metal version of the DayDate was the Tridor (white, yellow and rose gold) As for the toughness of the plating, as long as you treat it nicely it should be fine, but be wary that it will begin to fade. If you are set on the 41mm version, go with either all gold or all steel. I would recommend that you go with the steel version(s), Rolex's white gold is nearly indistinguishable from stainless steel. Personally I think the 41mm is too bling, but the classic 36mm is elegantly understated, especially the stainless version with a smooth bezel.

I believe the newest edition of the Portofino has an engraving of the town of Portofino on the caseback.

It looks like puretime has corrected the stainless caseback on a RG watch problem. http://puretimewatch.com/product/portofino-automatic-rg-white-rg-stick-dial-on-brown-leather-strap-a2892/

I had a similar problem with my Explorer 1, e-mail Angus at Puretime. He gave me a quote ~$40, but it may be a bit more for the newer style clasps.

Lucky you should bring up this topic, an original 6536 bezel assembly just showed up on WatchCrowd. Take a look. The seller also entails that they have no idea how much it is worth, which is so much the better. Good luck with the potential build.

Absolutely stunning. The bezel fading is superb. Does she have gilt hands? The tone of the photos makes it hard to tell. Also what is that gadget you've got on the side?

Yes the crown is 6mm Tubes can be found here I forget which one exactly, sorry. For crystal you want Clark's, the coronet is barely visible.

99% of reps will inevitably have glaring, flaws, that is the name of the game. The if the watch you do plan to get is a ceramic Sub with a DLC coating, most of these reps DLC and SS have their issues... The hands, bezel and pearl are the most apparent flaws compared to the genuine which you can see here And another problem that may or may not bother you is that the most recent Subs have blue lume, a detail which the cartel seems to have ignored for the most part. You can get a ceramic Sub with blue lume, whether there are DLC versions of it; I do not know. All in all, it is just about how many compromises you are willing to make and how many flaws you are prepared to accept. As for the DLC coating, I don't have an interest in such watches, and can't speak for their quality; but a coating at a good watch mod shop will cost ~$500 for the bezel, case and bracelet.

Just to warn you, but the hour and minute hands on the newest explorer are much fatter than on the rep you want, and would be a dead giveaway. My guess is most of the newest explorer reps are just using the hands from the DSSD. Here is a link for comparison. You may want to wait a bit until the rep factories have time to correct this problem.

Personally I've always felt that the YM would look better with a brushed bracelet. To remove scratches from the polished mid-links, -first remove the bracelet from the watch -then carefully tape off the brushed segments (I prefer the blue painter's tape by 3M, it comes off clean) -go over the polished mids with a Cape Cod polishing cloth until the desired finish is attained. That is the quick and easy way, for deep scratches you may need to use some jeweler's rouge (I like the red bar from Ofrei) and a polishing wheel. This will yield a superior polish, but more effort and equipment is obviously required.

Agreed with mbjoer, Last year I bought a 14060 rep, and it had an 18k hallmark stamped on it.