japanic

Other than the hour hand being wrong it is a fantastic rep...very understated.

This pair are almost always seen together and they work so harmoniously, but lately I've been growing fond of the smooth bezel + jubilee or smooth bezel + president combo. I would go as far as to say I've never see this combo in the wild, save for the few times on this forum where I've seen the jubilee paired with the Explorer I (which I absolutely loved). But I do not feel the same for the fluted bezel + oyster combo. Which combo do you like best?

I had a similar problem. I installed a gen bezel in my TW Best and mine click in, but it still rotates freely. Alligoat's statement was spot on. You are still installing a gen part in a [very good] rep case. Even the rep insert was glued in... As for the gen bezel, the rep bezel is fine just get a sapphire pearl from watchmaterial. Ask yourself would you spend around a hundred euros for a small circle of aluminum? When the one you have is pretty much indistinguishable.

If you are concerned about the new SA3135, puretime now has a TW Best Yacht-Master with an ETA 2836. I think it looks pretty good the dial is a slightly darker gray than the SA3135 version. However, I do not know if this is more or less accurate.

A tie between Rolex Explorer (pretty sure I an II are the same) and the hidden clasp jubilee.

I just got my TW Best, and my SL dial and hands do not glow like yours...hrmm

I actually have the same small wrist problem. One will have to cut the ends of the strap in order for a proper fit. 50 euros vs 168 may make the cutting a bit easier...

Put her on one of Josh's rep Rubber B straps and you've got a perfect watch for summer (it'll be here sooner than you think!) Was the date window properly aligned, before you swapped dials? It looked too far to the left in the site photos.

Much obliged LHOOQ.

Please tell me more about the Sternkruz crystals... Cousins UK has them in stock, 66 varieties in fact. What size would be equivalent for the Rolex 25.295.C2? They seem to be listed in order of diameter in millimeters.

I am preparing for a franken TW Sub project. I already have a noobmariner bracelet and a gen insert. Now contemplating a crystal replacement. I'm aware that Clark's is on the short list of the best replacement crystals both tropic and sapphire. But has anyone used one in their projects? How are they in terms of date magnification and clarity? Seems reasonable at $29.95 plus shipping. But are they any better than Clark's which cost $24 shipped?

Hour hand looks wrong (too small) as is the GMT hand (not a perfect triangle) But it would probably be fine for a daily beater.

It is a but curious, JLC released the Master Control ultra-thin around the same time, but I suppose this is harkening back to the days when anti-magnetic watches were new and more for function and intended for engineers. It really reminds me of the PP calatrava 5127.

I've always loved these vintage daytonas. I was thinking about purchasing one for my father's birthday (a 6265 or 6263), but the conflict I have is he has a rather large wrist and usually wears watches in the 42-45mm range. Do these wear small? I've heard the modern daytona wears small for a 40mm and most specs say this is a ~38mm diameter.

There are reps of the new portofino, which are a good first attempt; the chrono version is A21 jewel driven, so that is a dealbreaker for me. The portofino non-chrono from Josh in rose gold is actually decent and has an ETA 2824, but a stainless steel caseback without the proper ingraving... No reps of the vintage ingy or portuguese as far as I know. A shame I absolutely love that vintage ingy.

It's not all bad, it seems Josh has released a few Rubber B replica straps, now reasonably priced at $65 with free shipping.

He may be referring the the vintage line that IWC currently has in production for the ingy, portofino and portuguese.

Some recent developments late from '11 and early '12 models unveiled at Basel, make it look as if mesh bracelets may make a comeback... Breitling Transocean with mesh bracelet. or The new IWC Portofino with Milanese bracelet. Wishful thinking that both would be 7750 driven.

I'd have to agree. As it happens, I'm wearing the same one right now with a similar heavy knit black sweater. The 3 is a bit off, but I can live with it.

You may even consider the new 16610LV with the SA3135, from Angus.

The process I used, is to take a small flathead screwdriver and tap at the mid-links just under the end-links, slowly wedging them apart. Also I used plenty of 3 in 1 oil after a small gap was opened. Finally I used two sets of pliers wrapped with medical tape to pull them apart completely.

Indeed. Also known as the "pepsi" GMT. The transformer is due to the same overall color scheme as Optimus Prime.

It depends on what your base watch is and which dealer you bought it from, in regards to most of the parts you stated. The dial feet will need to be cut, there is a good tutorial on how to do this on yuki's site, a rolex date wheel is not interchangeable with an eta movement and neither are the hands.

These so called 1570 reps are yet another case of a 2836 sporting colored gears, screws and rotor made to resemble a 1570. see here

Last week I tried on a Datejust with the newer jubilee bracelet (with the hidden clasp) and I have to say it is the most comfortable bracelet I've worn. I know this is a highly subjective topic, but I would like to hear your opinions.