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If a picture is 1,000 words that has to be worth about a million right there. Where does the V4 come from? I looked at Josh's site and the highest I see is V3??

Lani, is this the dial you were refering to in this thread? I too would like to know the source, getting close to pulling the trigger on Eurotimez newest version whichever that may be I think V5.1,234,324

I have been contemplating getting a BCE and swapping in this gen dial http://cgi.ebay.com/BREITLING-EVOLUTION-RED-DIAL-ARABIC-WATCH-MENS-PARTS_W0QQitemZ220506617531QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item335737f6bb

Thats it, the way your chapter ring looks on the 3:00 side of the dial, kind of that chrome blue look thats the way my bezel looks almost all of the time in anything but the most faint light. Is that normal?? It NEVER looks as dark as the dial under normal lighting.

I am wearing my Link Chrono today and while I have had this since a few months after they came out I just noticed something on it today. I noticed that the chapter ring blue does not match the dial blue. The chapter ring looks like a lighter and more shiny blue where the dial looks more matte and royal blue. Is the chapter ring supposed to match the dial 100% color wise?? Also has anyone tried this watch out on a leather or rubber strap? Would like to see pics if you have.

Rather than heating it, why not try cooling it. If the stainless shrinks less than the hardened steel put that thing in the freezer for a few hours then try to drive out whatever is stuck in the same direction you got it in there. I would get 2 pieces of wood lay them on top of each other and drill a hole through it. You should have something about 1" thick and the LxW does not matter. Lay the bracelet across it with the protruding piece of the pin going into the hole and take a hammer to the top of it like you are driving a nail into the wood. Maybe if it is cold enough the pin will shrink just enough to get it out.

Glad to hear that you and yours are all ok and that the fire was restricted to the garage. There is no replacement for 9V smoke detectors, I swear by them in my house. I have an alarm system with both smoke detectors and heat sensors but I still use the good old 9V smoke detectors. I use the ones with the emergency light built into them on both ends of the hallway, and one near all 3 exit doors. Since your garage will obviously need to be re-built might I make the following suggestions as to what I have learned from years of constructing commercial properties and implemented in my own home. I insulated all of my garage walls and ceilings with fire resistant spray foam insulation. It gives me about an R-20 rating and in the event of a fire the foam will expand to stop the travel of both fire and smoke to different areas of the house. Walls and ceilings, I used 2 layers of 5/8" Type X Fire resistant gyp board on all walls, for the ceiling I have 2 layers, then hat channels and a third finishing layer which gives me a 2 hour ceiling rating. I also have wall mounted fire extinguishers in the garage near the door to the house and near the door to outside, and I keep one in the hallway closet and under the sink in the kitchen. I was not always so neurotic about fire but after seeing a house a block away from me burn to the ground I started doing whatever I could to give me an upper hand in the event of a fire. Door from garage to house. I used a 45 min fire rated steel door, the door itself is rated and there is an expanding gasket on the door so if there is fire on one side the smoke will not come through the opening. I also keep a fire cabinet in the garage to store any flamable materials such as gas and chemical solvents. Another thing alot of people over look is fire protection in their attic. I have both smoke and heat sensors wired to my alarm system running in my attic, as well I also have a 9V smoke alarm on both ends and right at the access door to the attic.

My Link chrono bezel has seen better days. I decided to take a cape cod to it, which worked pretty good and borderline great until I noticed it was starting to remove the painted numbers. So far only the 60 has been damaged and while that area of the bezel looks great the rest of it really needs the same attention which means in order to make the bezel look new again, all of the painted numbers will probably come off. I was looking at it and the numbers do not appear to be engraved that deep at all. If I go ahead with the polishing how should I go about touching up the painted numbers? I would usually just do the whole fill them with paint bit but it seems with them being as shallow as they are if I try to wipe the bezel face of any extra paint it is just going to pull the paint out of the numbers again. Anone ever re-paint a link chrono bezel or have any tips from past experience with shallow bezel markings?

From the looks of it that is the Taurus Judge in the photo. Based on that I would have to say a full size 1911 would easily fit in there, as would any Glock model save for the 34 and 35. Nice concept but a bit dated. I haven't seen a clock like that on someones mantle since I was a kid.

Yeah since it is going to be on a Seiko Monster the solidity is a must as it will basicly share duties with my G Shock as a tool watch.

Thanks TeeJay, I could not have asked for a better more detailed answer. I understand what you are saying about the comfort thing as well. The main reason I want to use a clasp of some kind is in an effort to keep the damage to the band where it goes in and out of a traditional buckle to a minimum. I guess I will order one of the strap/clasp combos and give it a test drive for a week or two before I get the strap made to accomodate it. Thanks again.

TeeJay, the link you posted, those look like rubber straps that connect to the deployant much like the Breitling Ocean Racer where you cut the rubber to get it to fit. Would this one be what I am looking for? It looks like the attachment is as you described http://www.watch-band-center.com/watchstrap-p3193h330s336-TOP-Watch-band-22mm-.html Lastly, whats the comfort of this setup in comparison to a regular buckle?

TeeJay do you know where I could get my hands on one? Also the adjustability, is it a few mm, more, less?? Lastly and this is probably going to be a PITA but how does it attach to the strap? My orange monster should be here tomorrow and I want to get a strap exactly like the one I have pictured for it, then get the case and deployant DLC'ed to finish off the look. The main problem I am dealing with right now is the strap is made by JacobStraps originaly for an Oris Carlos Casta watch. Jacob speaks Spanish and some english based on his reply to my e-mail. So I need to get all of the measurments down and get it to him to have the strap made. Since there is a language barrier I have to be 100% or I am almost certian the end result will not be correct.

I am trying to find a decent divers style deployant that I can put on a leather strap. I am not looking for the standard deployants but more of the style that comes on metal watch bands that lock with a push button and then have a piece that folds over to lock it. Something similar to this Also if anyone knows about how much adjustability there is in a deployant like this.

Perfect thats the info I was looking for. What size lug width is your strap made for?

On the chronisimmo strap, I was wondering if anyone knew what the approximate measurement of the areas that stick out past the lug width are. See my picture below I am talking about the area between the two red lines. Looks like if the strap is for 22mm lugs the strap may acctually be 24mm in the widened area?

I tried searching for it but came up dry. I had seen where a few people were able to pull up info on certian pictures. It shows the type of camera, different settings used, ect. How do you guys do that?

I really like that strap. It looks as though the strap is a bit wider than the lug width. COuld you guestimate how much wider the strap part is vs. the lug width? Looks like it might be 1-2mm per side??

I am searching for a strap for the Orange Monster I have inbound and stumbled onto his site. There is a strap that I really like but seeing as everything on his site is in spanish I am not sure if sending him an e-mail in english would work. Anyone know if he speaks english and if he is willing to make a few tweaks to his existing straps? Here is what I am looking at http://www.jrartesania.com/Serie%20Oriente.htm The description is: Medidas : A elegir desde 24 a 26 mm de ancho. Larguras de 115 a 135 mm lado de punta. Largura 75-80 mm lado del buckle y hebillas. I take it that means that the strap can be made with 24mm or 26mm lugs and in either 115/75 or 135/80 length. The Seiko monster IIRC is a 20mm lug so I would like the strap to fit the 20mm lug and flare out so to speak to 24mm just like the Seiko metal bracelet does. I would also like it in 135/80mm. Not knowing if he speaks and reads english I am hesitant to send an e-mail asking him.

What did you use to make the hole in the dial? What did you use for blue to paint the faux capsule?

I am with Nanuq on this one. While a rep knife disected may appear 100% true to the gen the grade of steel and manufacturing process is what I would call into question. For example if the rep uses an inferior steel as one of the main pivot pins or as part of the locking mechanism. The parts may look and function just like the gen but if they fail its going to hurt. While a rep dealer may say their knife is made using 440C, have we not learned anything from our swiss vs Asain clone debacle? Without an independant lab test on the rep steel I would not trust my fingers to the claim of using 440 steel. Could you please offer some insite as to why an OTF can't be used? I have carried one every day over the last 10 years or so and have subjected them to some pretty hard use and they still work, a quick strope(2-3 strokes)once every other week keeps them razor sharp as well.

Yeah that the contrast I was asking about. I saw a gen and believe me from 3' away you could see the contrast looking staight on at the watch. I guess we should assume that trying to brush the waves on a rep dial with a 3M or something would most certianly remove the paint too.

Just wondering. I am sure we have all seen photos of the gen that shows a stark contrast between the dial and the waves. I have yet to see any pictures of a rep that duplicate this. I have heard people say that there is a contrast on the rep dial but I can't find any photos showing it. Anyone have a good pic of the rep showing the contrast?

Hey Pho quick question. What is the rubber strap like on the Sinn? Josh's pic make it look like the older rubber straps that collect dust easily.

Yeah SS can not rust, corrode yes but rust in the traditions sense with red rust no. If there is rust on the surface of SS it means that the surface has iron particles imbeded in it and it is the iron rusting not the SS. If Rolex was having a problem with rusting on their watches than they must be using sub standard SS to make their expensive watches. In a rep I would not put it past the SS to have iron particles imbeded in it, in a $5K Rolex which uses this magical SS that our reps do not match and people can tell the difference from across the room how can that be?