Ado213

AJ, a truly heart warming gesture mate Micky, glad you made it, my thoughts are with you

Update on TC's thread pitch. After having many discussions with Ticktick (Andi) it now seems that TC's case tube thread pitch has changed or my assumption was incorrect?. I have always been aware that it WAS M3 x 0.25mm pitch. It now seems it is M3 x 0.3mm pitch, Andi has measured his latest TC case tube, with thread gauges and has confirmed this. By the way the WSO case tube is threaded the same as TC's so it wont fit gen case. Andi is going to do a full post on his SD build and TC's thread sizes in due course, cant wait ! (had a sneak preview of Andi yesterday, very, very nice indeed !!!! So I guess at present we work of this, I am as sure as I can be off memory that TC's were M3 x 0.25 pitch, anyone care to chime in on this

Well Polexpete came up with a great idea in fitting the DWO underneath the GMt gearing on the ETA 2893 movement. There was a slight problem as the DWO caught on the hour bridge, however with a little thought this was easily overcome. I slipped out the stock ETA 2893-2 datewheel and replaced it with a 2836-2 datewheel. The 2836-2 datewheel is just that fraction higher than the 2893-2 and allows you to fit a DWO without rubbing on the hour bridge and yet still fitting under the GMT gearing, very nice indeed. you still need the stock eta dial spacer on the movement but it works fine, with no interference with date change. So there you have it guys, how to fit a DWO on an ETA 2893-2.

Here is my V2 at getting a generic crystal into a BP SD. first attempt failed WR above 3 bar. As the BP case is bored out to 30.1 mm and a generic or genuine Xtal with gasket is 29.6mm diameter, its obvious that the gen will not fit without a sleeve or ring adapter. here is my case bored to 30.1 mm inside diameter x 3.0 mm deep. you will see my "sleeve to the right of the case and below a better picture of the sleeve. Next we need a custom rehaut as in picture 3, you will see the xtal gasket to the right Ok we have this now, so lets look at the assembly, of the rehaut and gasket, picture 4. You can see that the gasket holds the Xtal by a small amount 1mm and the Xtal sits directly on top of the rehaut. Picture 5 shows the Xtal, gasket and new rehaut assembled Great. everything fits nicely and seems good so now we need to pre-assemble these components together and get ready to press them all home. Picture 6 shows the assembly prior to pressing Great nice and tight, not too tight but tight enough to give me confidence that this will be good on WR later on. Now we have pressed all components together lets look at the finished result, Picture 7 shows a top view Great looking good, I wanted the xtal that bit lower after seeing the pictures posted in this thread and that's what I got, picture 8 shows the stock BP on the right and the one Ive just machined on the left. This one passed WR at 6 bar so I am more than happy with the result. So in conclusion, it is possible to fit a gen Xtal to a BP SD. Yes you do have a 4 part assembly, rather than the genuine 3 part as shown in this thread diagram, however changing the Xtal now should be easy. Anybody wanting machining dimensions, I will post these Tuesday, cant access my works computer from here at the moment.

Update on my version 2 for fitting generic xtal to BP SD, got it Ephers ?

Update on V2 BP SD gen crystal assembly coming soon !!!!

2824-2 without dial spacer ??, wow bet your date change is a little stiff !!. I can only comment on swiss eta 2892 and H3 pinions are definitely high enough and appear correct when fitted. H4 look too high on a 2892, so had to change back to H3.

Hi I can help you with this if you like, your watch is a gold capped watch and boneventure is correct the plating on these is around 20-30 microns. It is not a electro-plated watch, the gold is applied by pressure and heat, sort of like a gold leaf heat applied. The movement is a 500 series, not sure which one but I guess at 563 or 565. The watch is definitely worth restoring, these old De-villas are gaining in price as there is such a history behind this particular series of movement. It's a must keep and a hair loom. I have two omega constellations from around the same period, which I would not part with. If you want to learn more about your watch go to :- http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.co.uk From there you will find lots of links and all about the history of Omega, very interesting !

You miss the point, H3 is obviously lower than H4, however a 2892-2 and a gen Omega 2500 movement has a lower stem height than a 2824-2 or 2836-2 If you use 2824-2 or 2836-2 then you will be ok without the additional dial spacer, however if you want a Super Franken and use the 2892 or 2500 omega gen movement you will still need an additional dial spacer to get the stem to align with the existing case tube. The additional mod to get the gen case tube and crow to fit is not easy to do unless you have the correct tooling. Same goes for gen (functional) He valve

Take a look at this thread from RWI, this is a far better option for your tube and crown fitting. http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php?t=182364

Well, now your asking!, in my professional opinion I would not glue or araldite the case tube in, seriously who want to wander round with a watch on with a "cocked up" crown and tube?. I know lots of members do this as I suppose it does get you the desired result (gen crown and tube) Yes,,if it fails, you can just heat the adhesive and re-glue another in, but wouldn't you be happier with a gen screw in case tube, that actually screws in, no glue !! I know which I'd prefer !

Araladiting a gen tube in is not a good option really, the gen tubes and crowns are known to fail fairly frequently, this I due to Their physical dimensions and thread sizes, they're quite weak. Another option on this would be better long term, especially if this is a keeper!

Dbane 883 is absolutely correct (as usual) TC case is tapped M3 x 0.25mm and will not accept a gen 703 or 704 case tube. 703/704 case tubes are externally threaded M3 x 0.35mm I fail to see how a 0.25 pitch tube fits in a 0.35 pitch tapped hole, screws in perfectly by hand and is functional. Listen to Dbane883 he is correct

Buy yourself a cheap large hand wind movement (working) and follow the book through using the movement as your sample. If it's still working at the end of the book you've done really well!. Have fun !!

The book is a great reference source and indeed most of the information in there is still relevant. As you rightly understand things have moved on since it's original penning, for instance commercial watch cleaning is no longer done with peg wood and brush, manufacturing balance staffs and to a certain extent poising is very little carried out these days. Breguet hair springs are all but dead, apart from in collectors pieces, however if you could manage to master the skills contained within this book, then I would call you a watchmaker and not a watch-repairer!. Hope this helps you

Looks like you were right Sneed, no takers on the custom dial, so this is dead in the water!.

Hi Andy, sorry for the delay, been really busy clearing the decks so I could get away on my holiday. Below are the dimensions of the BP SD case and in red is what I bored out to accept generic crystal and gasket. Hope this is of use as a guide, when i do this again I will go 0.7mm deeper and take the whole existing rehaut away.

You have to let go of this mate, were not all the same, and thank god were not, what an un interesting world it would be if we were !!. We all have different opinions, I personally agree with KBH, however I do respect your point of view. No amount of arguing will ever change your mind and I trust that you will understand you won't change mine. KBH is correct, this post is not about which movement is best, its about fitting a 2892-2 in a GMT case set. Come on guys this isn't getting us anywhere, let's put our energy into something constructive !!.

Mail:- Rouhelena@yahoo.com and ask for "branded" 5517. Really good replica!

You don't have to understand, just respect someone else's view as we respect yours Now back to the dial , please !

Update on 16710 dial with eta date window and dial feet, price is $15.00 each plus shipping. I may get flamed here so I'll tread as carefully as I can, this is the price my supplier has quoted me. I will gladly furnish the suppliers name so anybody wanting one can buy direct. I have to get to 10, any takers ?

If the eta window is still selling it must be reasonably popular, I guess there are still folk out there that want to use an ETA I. Their watch. Yes the GMT conversion is a jumper and it does function correctly. To be fair your particular GMT conversion is probably the best type to own. i am not disrespecting your watch or your opinion, just putting another point of view forward. I just think the 2893-2 is a better movement and generally more reliable, but that's only my opinion, and I am also usually incorrect!!. That said, it does look promising that a DWO can be fitted to a 2893-2 which may lead to an effective solution to those wishing to use a 2893-2 in their builds, many thanks to Polexpete again !

Well bugger me with a broomstick , Polexpete, your absolutely correct!!!. There is room under the GMT gear to get the DWO in, just tried it. Only slight problem is the hour bridge which presses down on the double corrector, it's proud of the eta datewheel forcing the DWO upwards at this point. I think with a little careful trimming and re-shaping were in business !! Sometimes you just miss the obvious, thanks for your input Polexpete, much appreciated !

Well yes it's an instant tell but so is a bent GMT hand. The 2836-2 GMT has had problems over the years, quite simply it not made as a GMT movement and the retrofit parts to allow it to become a GMT have come in many variations, some work fine, some work but not for long. Apart from the the quest for CHS, the reasons for these variation in the retrofit parts is that they were problematic . There are many posts by members to substantiate this claim. If I am not mistaken, Trevor is selling the 16710 with an eta date window already, I am presuming people are buying it?. If not then my idea of the bulk buy is dead in the water and you are correct in your prediction . Just in

Same here, but you know, it might just be doable, especially if you sanded the eta wheel a bit !. On another note and if this fails, I have been offered a bulk purchase on 116710 or 16710 GMT dials with eta date windows and dial feet for the 2893-2. I have to buy in 10's it will take 2-3 months to get the first batch., just waiting for price confirmation. Anybody interested if so which would the majority prefer, 16710 or 116710?