RWG Technical

I would have to guess that you did not notice this section on the board, as it will provide you with not only hours and hours of reading pleasure, but also answer many of your questions... Have a look here, if after you have read them all, you still have questions, plse let me know... Expert Area, ZiggyZone posts on watchmaking... RG

Not a problem, you have one of the best movements ever made, as far as I am concerned, the ETA 2892A2 and it's derivitives, are far superior to any Rollie any day (cheaper, thinner, and no Rotor bearing rubbing problems like the Rolex models). You have an excellent watch, a keeper for sure... Glad to be back. RG

If (and that is a big IF as I will explain) you decided to remove the running seconds gears, then the rest of the watch will work as normal, Chrono seconds will work as normal 12 Hour counter will work as normal 30 Minute counter will work as normal... The only visual difference, is that the seconds at 6 will be frozen... NOW, having said that, I just finished a Daytona with running seconds at 6, the new model with 28,800 beat movement. I serviced and tested the basic movement, then added the extra gears for the running seconds and it tested fine...actually, I wound the watch fully on Sunday, and it was still running this morning when I got up...and I have been playing with the chrono for the past couple of days, and it's working great... So on this example, the movement is working fine WITH the running seconds at 6, so far all the ones I have serviced, are still working fine...at least no one has contacted me to say they stopped working...how they will do in the long run, I can't tell you... RG

The COSC standards for Mechanical watches, is -4 to +6 seconds per 24 hours...that is achieved on only the most expensive watches, after adjusting by specialized watch timers... You have a $400 replica, never adjusted or worked on by any specialist, and it's as good a timekeeper as a watch costing $1000"s more... Your well within the BEST Accuracy of any mechanical watch, if this is not accurate enough, my suggestion is to get a Quartz, as no mechanical watch can be expected to keep up with a atomic clock... RG

As far as I know, the hands on all Asian and Swiss 7750's (7753 or whatever) are all Identical...a 7750 is a 7750 no matter who makes it. As for your original question, a 7750 is a 7750, dial feet, subdial spacing etc...BUT on the new Daytona, there is a new bridge with different spacing than a regular 7750, but you could put this new bridge on the Swiss 7750... Here is a similar procedure with a PAM, should answer some questions... Swapping Swiss and Asian 7750... The real question is Why would you want to do this, I assume you have read my review of the modified seconds at 6 movement and the problems with the 11 extra gears...Swiss or Asian, you still have the same problem - overloaded movement... Best suggestion, and cheapest as well, service the movement (as the Asian 28,800 BPH movement is Very very good), remove the extra 5 gears for seconds, leave the rest as is, and you get a great functioning watch, at a fraction of the price for a Swiss powered one... No matter the make (Swiss or Asian) they all need to be serviced, Swiss 7750 is going to set you back $250 to $400 or more, for the movement alone... RG

So glad to see the baby made it home safely (and quickly as well...). Great job and nice to see it on your wrist, thanks for letting me be a part of this project. RG

Due to home and work commitments, I have to turn off my PM until October 1, 2006. Thanks for understanding, RG

Nice job, love to see people do it on their own...I also use a file, easier to control, and does an excellent job... Keep it up, well done. RG

The bad news is "some" of these models have crooked hairsprings... The good news is, that it can be fixed by straightening the hairspring, or replacing the whole balance wheel with a new one from ETA... Seems to be fairly isolated as other than my 3 bad ones I have serviced, and the one from olreon, there doesn't seem to be a rash of posts about non-working movements... We have seen worse things on these watches before, and overcome the problems... RG

Fantastic job all around, the application, the colour, and great pictures as well... Wonderful work. RG

Even the genuine models have flaws, check out these crown guards and note the thickness... All the "flaws" you point out, are what in my view give the watch "Character" and make it special and unique...just as we are all different, so are these watches... RG

You took the words right out of my mouth... I was going to say the same thing. RG

That could be true, I dont' have access to what the -1 changes were... RG

Excellent find, that is the same movement for sure... So your probably right, old stock mainplates, with aftermarket bridges, and aftermarket balance wheel. This would also support why the ETA balance wheel fits on this model. Great infomation and glad to see everyone participating and adding information. RG

How can you make statements like this, without any first hand experience? Your making assumptions that's all, but more importantly, you dont' know what your talking about. Have you even held one of the watches sold by the dealers here? Obviouisly not, as if you did, you would not be making a statement like this one... What your saying is simply not true... stick to Wally Mart, and I will stick to the dealers here... Couldn't agree more with you on that point... RG

Thanks for the confirmation on the price, so $1000 from Rolex is about right...I bet the turn time is probably not far off either... No problem on your lume, it will turn out really nice, you'll see, I'll post before and after pictures as well... RG

Dont' quote me on the Rolex price, I think that is what I was told, I could be way off... I am sure Rolex would be more than I was... As for the crystal, it's a plastic one, as for the model, I cant' remember as I no expert on these crystals. I ordered it from the case number and serial number of the watch... Thanks for the kind words, these projects are so much fun, and the satisfaction at the end of it all, to see the before and after, is well worth it... RG

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Your breaking new ground on this one...but I suspect it will be a straight swap...should be here today or tomorrow...will advise. RG

Your probably right on Finepics... If that is the case, these must be very old movements that the mainplates are coming from...given the pallet [censored], and the fact that the dial attachment is like it was on old pocket watch movements years ago... So maybe these mainplates are from pocketwatches from the 40's or older??? The mystery deepens... RG

Add to my comments, what PAmman said... The last one I did was a standard 7750 layout, i.e. subdials at 6-9-12...with a date window. RG

There is only one version of this particular model as far as I have seen... If you have a 6497-1 with this type of pallet attachment [censored]...Then you have the one and only bad movement. All the movements I have seen, with this type of pallet [censored] assembly have had bent hairsprings. Any movement that looks like this is a BAD one (from what I have seen first hand)... My reference was to all "other" variants of the 6497-1, both Swiss and Asian, with a NORMAL Pallet Bridge - as shown here. Any movement that looks like this, is OK and NOT a problem RG

I have installed many genuine dials on Navitimers, actually just did another one on Monday... I never measured the dial spacing, as there is no reason to...the genuine uses the same movement as the rep, a 7750...it's a direct fit... The only problem you will find, is the gen dial is thicker than the rep one, and you have to file down the case ring attachment points for the clamps, you'll see what I mean when you try it out... RG

Well that was one of the best posts I have seen in a long time... I know nothing about these models, and I have cut and pasted this information and printed it for my reference. It's going to go in my watch information binder... Thanks for this, much appreciated. RG

Looks like some type of Seagull movement, where to get one with running seconds at 6 I have no idea... there are no sources for Asain movements or spare parts... Only possibility is to install a Miyota 8215 (not even sure if it would fit or if the hands are the same size), but the Miyota would not have running seconds at 6. Unless you have some semential value attached to it, it's probably cheaper and easier to buy a new one... RG