dbane883

All gen.. (except for the bracelet links.) '67 midcase/caseback, Tritium MF dial, tritium hands, MKI faded FF insert, 580 endlinks, 700 twinlock crown/tube, gen T19 superdome,

Ahh. Other than the DW, should be relatively easy. Wear it in good health my friend.

Looks great A! Other than the skinny hands and small font DW, it's quite passable. Nice pick up.

I just thought of this.. maybe a couple of drops of Vissin applied to the rear rivet will work?

Unlike the rep pearls on the 116610/114060's, the gen pearl is not glued in. It is in fact riveted into place: Side profile: From the back: Rolex tech diagram: So I have a question. Let's say i need to remove the pearl (perhaps it was damaged and I have a replacement). What's the best way to extract the pearl causing minimal damage to the brittle insert? My guess is that I would need to "carve" out the back of the rivet with a tiny burr bit then pull it out from the front. I have heard of a special Rolex extraction tool as well as a pearl installation "grommet" press tool, but have no idea what they look like. Any other brilliant suggestions?

MY at CWP

Here's a stronger effort:

@cc33, just curious.. Is that a Phong case or Mingh?

J12 rehaut is not good. Obviously laser cut/pitted: Not crisp and deep like the gen. The gen engraving is more of a deep channel outlined by a shallow depression:

Nice pen choices. I see you got the Princess Grace for the wife. Gen refills are a great upgrade, but I agree, the rep refills are surprisingly good. Glad it worked out.

ST is no longer stocking those cases anyways.

?? I don't believe I ever gave you my contact. ??

ST has 18k bezels that's in your budget

Ok. Now you're just showing off.

Are you sure the movement is kaput? I used a TC2824 recently and it stopped working after a few days and I was [censored]. But as it turned out, the hands were a little too close together because the lume on the hands I was using was applied really thick. Maybe take a close look to see that hands are not caught on each other.

This is the best I could do, unedited. Held a 10x loupe up against the iphone and tried not to shake. Your Ollioclip goes to 21x I think and is crystal clear.

Its amazing what you can do with the iphone camera.. I rented a 105mm Canon lens from Vistek couple months ago for a few macro shots using a DSLR and a tripod... Your shots are just as good if not better... its all about the lighting too... You captured the warmth of the gilt dial/hands really well. Are those gen hands? Or CWP?

Great pics.. did you use a mini tripod as well?

There should not be a gap like that. Either the stem is too long, or the threads on the tube and/or crown are screwed up

What do you mean by "glass fiber pen"?

I just took delivery of the new J12 SubC. Before it undergoes some major surgery, I thought I'd do a quick visual comparison of it relative to my gen no-date Sub. The Gen will always be on the LEFT or the bottom... J12 will be on the right. Out of the box, to the average person, the J12 is a very good rep: Sunken SELS, AR cyclops, hefty weight - Crystal is a touch high but overall, its not bad. First lets look at the dials: Gen dial: J12 dial: Very briefly, the minute hand is too chunky. Fonts are a bit off, especially "Superlative Chronometer" being too fat rather than thinner, minute hashmarks are also too fat, 3,6, 9 rectangles too square.."Rolex" should be more elongated. The printing is not white enough, etc, etc..I cant bare to look any more closely. The bezel insert engraving is lacking depth compared to gen,. At the same time, fonts are too thin: Pearl surround and dome over the lume is actually pretty good. However there is a slight bluish tint to it.. Or maybe its a bit translucent compared to the more opaque gen pearl: The general case shape dimensions is very close to gen. lug tip to lug tip on the J12 is 47.93mm compared to 48.05 mm on the gen. Case width is about smack on as well: Like 99.99% of rep cases, the crown guards are a touch off. Little bit too wide at the base: Despite the fact that dimensionally, the length and width is about dead on with the gen, there was something that was really bothering me about it. Then I noticed that case sides on the J12 is way too square. By that, I mean that on the gen cases, the top of the case is a touch narrower than the bottom, which results in the case flaring out from the dial side to the caseback side... You can see the side profile here and notice that the gen flares out 2-3 degrees more than the J12 case: The difference is more prominent at the lugs if you look down dead-on from above. Notice how the sides of the lugs on the J12 is nearly vertical, whereas the gen has an elegant flare: Enough about the case, onto the bracelet. As I removed the J12 bracelet, I noticed it just felt a tad "loose" to me. So I compared the "stretch" to the the gen bracelet (on the bottom). The J12 clearly has more stretch than the gen which has tight links that hinge like butter: The coronet on the fliplock of the J12 is a definite improvement over say, the BP bracelet, but my only complaint here is the width and depth of the recessed scallop: I will not go into an indepth review of the clasp, but its probably the best rep glidelock clasp today that I have seen. The middle links of J12 are a bit blocky if you know what I mean, but not bad. And in case you were wondering, the gen bracelet will fit on the J12 case no problem, so good job there. Overall, not a bad piece. This concludes another episode of useless watch trivia.

I had no idea one could polish hands with a dremel.. neat.. Given that I dont have a $2k commercial ultrasonic machine, i think i will risk lung cancer and try toulene or xylene next, unless anyone else has a better idea.

I'm in a situation where I need to completely remove the lume from a set of hands. On a set of test hands, I've tried acetone, which simply results in the lume just swelling up. It can be scraped off in gooey mass, but with the high vapor evaporation of acetone, one only has a few seconds. I've also tried paint thinner, lacquer thinner and even paint stripper. The best I can get it results in some lume still being lodged in the corners: I had reasoned that water based binders in the lume would dissolve in the acetone. On some rep hands, this works great. If the binder is oil based, the lacquer thinner ought to work too. I want to refrain from picking/scraping at it as that would still leave a tiny residue. My guess is that the binder is a reactive one like polyurethane. In which case none of the solvents above will work as a dissolving agent. My next step is to try toluene... That should dissolve it. Perhaps in the form of automotive carb cleaner. Are there any other processes that might work better?

http://www.chrono24.fr/rolex/submariner-5514-the-last-one--id2833629.htm?manufacturerIds=221&picnum=9&referenceNumber=5514%24221&tab=pics&urlSubpath=%2Frolex%2Fref-5514.htm Allegedly Steffano Mazzariol is the seller?? If so, it probably is a legit NOS 5514 mid case.