dbane883

Late last year, I picked up a heavily used 93150 bracelet and clasp for my 5513 meters first sub. It was not wearable, so i sent it off to Michael Young's bracelet spa in HK for repair. To be frank, when I got it back, it was still not very good. I think he did the best he could, but the links just werent moving as well as they should be. As such, I could not wear it and promptly sold it. In the meantime, I managed to secure some gen 580 end links and a gen 93150 clasp. While I looked for a fresher set of links, I ordered a "rep" bracelet from 5tarTim3. I was told they they were made in Italy (not that that means anything) so I took the plunge. The bracelet is sterile, but I have no use for the clasp and end links. I was happy to find out that my 580 endlinks fit perfectly, as does the clasp, although you have to use the gen bracelet screws. The grain/sheen are a perfect match for the 580 end links. I'm very impressed. While not correct for my mid'60's 5513, the solid (yes.. solid.. not hollow like a 93150 or 93250) links are extremely comfortable. One upside for the solid links?... no stretch! I have to say, its by far the best (most gen-like) sheen of any rep Rolex bracelet I have ever seen. The TC is very "grainy" and does not have the warm Rolex "glow" that the ST bracelet has. For fun, I have compared it to the TC V3 links I have lying around. TC on the left, The ST bracelet on the right. You can see from the above, that the TC finish, is not quite right. The ST is much better. Not sure if the ST end links would fit a TC (it should) , but If I still had my TC sub, I would definitely consider using this bracelet along with the V4 clasp. But until I can secure a decent set of gen 93150 bracelet links, I will happily use these for the next few months. I almost forgot to mention that the sides come polished. So I took some 800 grit paper and a scotch pad to dull them down.

Gen case for sale. "Only" $6k! http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/message/1402875551/REDUCED%26gt%3B%26gt%3BFS+-+6536-1+mid+case+%26amp%3B+case+back%2C+bonus+rolex+parts

Suunto Observer.

Yes it is

Despite the fact that I despise removing non-lughole bracelets bars, I decided to have a better look at the type of bars used in my 114060. Not surprisingly, the endlinks are drilled for 2mm bars, but the ends of the bars are not what I expected. Typically non lugholes Rolexes have 0.9-1.0 mm spring bar tips (the portion that go into the recessed holes). But these sub c bars are much beefier. The tips are 1.2 mm; same OD as the "vintage" spring bar tips. Pics for illustration and comparison: When reinstalling, it's always a good idea to use tape on the lugs to prevent scratching.

I took the bezel protector off.. Just for you.

Ok. I can only wear it like this for so long. Back in the "safe" it goes

I was in a rush. Really.. I was....

Clark's 5513 assemblies are the same as the Startime assemblies. As such, you will have to go through some intense sanding/polishing to get them to. Gen-like sheen. The bezels are matte stainless and a b--tch to polish.. Especially between the teeth. At the same time, gen inserts to do not fit easily without some modification.

I'll be installing a gen 800 tube. If Adrians tube requires same set up, then please send it. I've installed one of Athaya's (newer) 8mm tubes before and it required a M4 x .35mm tap. I just have to assume that gen 800-0 tubes require the same.

E, Have you ever installed a 702 tube? I have a few times. Despite the correct tap being M3x.35, for some odd reason , EVERY 702 tube I've installed does not completely screw down fully. The threads of the tube are ever so slightly wider than the tap itself..diameter-wise. Almost like they are too pointy/sharp if you know what I mean. The same goes for the twinlock. As a result, the threads need to be "softened" down slightly with 800 grit paper to get the external thread diameter to be the same as the tap. The internal splines need to be reemed out, so why not the external threads.? Its pretty much the only way i've been able to get 702 & 700 tubes to fit correctly. installing these vintage tubes has always been a crude/non-elegant process.

Really? I just installed a gen 700 twinlock tube. I used a M3x0.35mm tap. It was snug, but went in fine (hey, talking about the tube here ). I'm still looking for confirmation of the correct tap for a 8mm big crown tube.

Pretty expensive: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/231204790726

Its a mystery. I've looked on and off for couple months. Very strsnge

.....maybe. As long as YOU like it, that's all that matters. Wear it well my good man!

I believe the C1 code is correct for a 2.3mm gasket. C2 denotes a 2.5mm gasket. The package of the 25-295-C12 crystal comes with a C1 gasket (presumably 2.3mm). Full code is 25-295-C12-C1 My guess is the C12 denotes AR AND 2.0mm thickness rather than 1.8mm for all other 25-295 crystals. While we are here, what is the correct full code for a 114060 no-date subC?

I see your recently acquired '67 GMT and raise you with my '67 5513. Although it's more of a call than a raise. [emoji4] Love that T38!

In the office, I've been using a single tube DAC/Headphone amp connected to my macbook Pro for the past 6 months. With the upgraded dutch-made NOS ECC88 Tung-Sol tube, in conjunction with my Grado RS2's, it's absolutely superb. IMHO, probably best sounding DAC for the money. Just wanted a cheap set up at work. Might as well go tube if you can, right?

Can anyone here confirm the correct tap for a gen 8mm big crown tube? Fairly certain it requires a 3.4-3.5mm drill bit followed by a M4 x 0.35 pitch tap. But just want to be 100% sure.

This is my gen 114060. The top of the crystal is only 0.1-0.2mm above the insert. I have not dissected it yet to confirm gasket size.

Yeah. No shortage of pics there! But a little unclear on how he set the insert back into the bezel. Said he used a piece of wood. Not sure if he worked it in gradually along the outer rim or pushed it in with a single press with a circular block. Screwdriver to remove insert is a bit risky if you ask me, but whatever works I guess. @live1, congrats on your watch. Looks great.

SMP that my wife bought me 16 years ago:

I think Cerachrom is just a brand name. Like Kleenex is to tissue. Chemically, its the same as other ceramics. According to their patent, the inserts are made of "A sintered substrate 1 made of ZrO2, Al2O3 or a mixture of the two". Nothing special there. But I definitely see something sandwiched in the middle.. Its not uniform.

Not that anyone but me cares, but here is a close up of the inside of the gen bezel. You can see the bottom area where the "stabilizer ring" sits. Just above that is the recessed area for the ceramic insert. There is a tiny lip that secures the insert in place that holds it in place via friction, just like the "old school" inserts. Also, I've noticed that the insert is not 100% ceramic. From the edge, I can see that a thin layer of carbon fibre (?) or fibre glass is sandwiched in the middle.