14060 or 16610?

From my RepGeek post: I can't play the movie, my media player wouldn't recognize the .mov extension. I think I need iTunes or QuickTime to view it and don't have that on this PC. Anyway, let me comment without seeing the movie. It appears you are pointing to the L-shaped lever. That lever has a hinge in it and actuates the heart-shaped chrono piece in 2 different positions to start and stop the chrono function. I don't think I've ever seen that piece installed backwards, and I don't think that's possible. What I have seen is misalignment of this piece and/or misalignment between it and the heart-shaped chrono piece. You can remove the screw holding the piece on, and remove the piece with no problem, but then what? You can't install it any other way. Also, you may have trouble realigning the spring for the 30-minute actuator keeper.

The Zigmeister, I know your PM is off. I also sent you an email. Can you PM me or return my email? My question is not related to needing your services. Thanks!

Just saw this thread as I am mostly over at RWI. Yes, I have seen a few of these. Since I had been off these boards for some time I didn't know it was new. Nice feature!

It's funny, in just the past couple of weeks I have done another half dozen A7750s, so I now have near 20 complete overhaul and service jobs on this movement. With all the other repairs I've done that weren't part of a full overhaul and service, I have amassed quite a bit of experience. By the way, I am now approved over at RWI as a trusted watch repair tech for A7750s and other movements. See my thread documenting one of my A7750 services step-by-step: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/what-does-a7750-look-like-52351.html

That's just random coincidence. The basic A7750s are essentially the same, especially in those 2 watches.

Is it just me, or is the date font off as well? Looks more like the modern "2" than the one that goes with open 6s and 9s.

Thanks for the additional info. Well that certainly justifies the extra $150. Can you get the standard $300 setup and add the clamping sensor later? I have my piezo mic working, and I went a step further by adding a pre-amp. It works great, can pick up the tiniest of sounds. I now have a useful watch timer.

Agree with Bike Mike, the spring for the 30-minute wheel may need to be backed off. But it's also possible the 30-minute wheel is binding or not spinning as it should. Not likely though, if the movement has been serviced. Yes, if there is a slight pause (as the spring is overcome) it will obviously throw timing off by a fraction of a second. Not a huge deal, but I'm sure it would bug some individuals.

It's not always easy to find a rep-friendly watchsmith. The Zigmeister is the resident expert watchsmith here. I don't think he's accepting any work until June. There are others who can service it for you, myself included.

There's a seller on eBay that sells 7750s. I would inspect closely upon receipt; you can pretty much tell within a few minutes if it's a 7750 or A7750.

Date wheel is slipping. The change will occur later and later. I have seen this before. The problem is that the gear teeth are not fully meshing, either that or there could be some damaged or missing teeth. Continuing to use it in this manner may eventually cause permanent damage.

jchurch, pm sent. There may be many causes for the power reserve issue, first thing that comes to mind is a tired mainspring or possibly binding in the barrel. But also it's very likely the power reserve is fine and the movement may just be stopping because it needs a service.

I am a heavy poster in the TZ watchmaking area as well. In all honesty, I have learned far more at this forum - they are a bunch of stiff closed-minded folks over there. If you even bring up the Asian 7750 they're all over you. Actually I learned a lot from PMWF too. As for tutorials, photos, etc. I will try to be better about it. I am one track minded when I really get into whatever hobby of mine, and don't even stop to eat let alone pause for a photo at every step. I don't stop until I'm done. I'm a member at quite a few car forums and do lots of DIY - same deal, I don't have many photos, but plenty to contribute. Honestly I hadn't been to this forum in a couple years, thought it went offline.

I don't see a problem with devising my own clamp or using a rubber band to save $150. I just might spring for it.

It winds clockwise when viewed from the rotor side (ratcheted reversing wheel turns counter clockwise).

Doubt it has seized. More likely the auto winding mechanism is not engaging somehow. You will need to remove the caseback to take a closer look. Move the rotor manually and observe if the mainspring barrel turns.

Actually I tried playing around with this over the weekend. The concept is sound. I even got the radio shack piezo element. But when I plugged it in, mine wouldn't pick up the watch beat. I may have bent it too much while removing from the case. I may buy another and try it again. Can't go wrong with $2.25 in parts and free software... http://www.flynwill.com/Watches/CheapTiming/

I've been thinking about a microset. Anybody have any experience with those? $300 seems tough to beat.

Welcome to the noisy world of the dry and gritty A7750.

Over-oiling the barrel walls can also reduce power reserve by allowing the bridle to slip prematurely.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I only have about a dozen A7750s under my belt, so I'm not exactly an expert. But I have found with symptoms like you described it is usually related to the balance jewels and/or balance pivots, and usually closer inspection of these parts is in order. For instance, I currently have an A7750 that I was servicing and broke a balance spring. I am awaiting new ones from JB (pieces in parts bin and spare movements wouldn't work). The movement is completely assembled and if I wind it up it keeps great time if the missing jewel side is up. The moment that side is put down, the balance slows and the amplitude drops severely (no timing machine but I can see it). It will even stop after a while. Flip that side back up and all is well again. Of course installing the cap jewel when the new spring arrives will make it run fine. Out of curiosity, what "thinner" oil are you using? I use 9010 and D5 for most things, and pretty much try to stick to the ETA oiling chart, but have some very thin off-brand synthetic watch oil that I will use on occasion. Glad you sorted it out.

Servicing an A7750. Broke the harp spring on the dial side. went to my parts movements, they all have a smaller - both shorter and narrower hinge - springs that aren't compatible. So I ordered standard springs from JB. Will I receive the same longer, wider-hinged spring? Also, I didn't know if dial-side was upper or lower, so I ordered 3 of each. Can anybody set me straight? Oh, let me say that I HATE having to wait several days with a movement in a partial state of assembly!!!

Good idea, though admittedly The Zigmeister's thorough tutorials leave me feeling a bit... inadequate. I'm also a terrible documentarian, but I'll see what I can do.

After about 3 years and practicing many times, I am finally comfortable servicing the 7750. It really is not as hard as I thought it would be. I want to thank The Zigmeister for his help - he probably doesn't remember getting me down this path a few years ago (we had a brief forum and email exchange). I remember doing my first 2824 and 2836, they seemed so hard in the beginning. Then after a few times it became pretty routine. The 7750 presented a new challenge. To anybody out there with a junk movement or two, I highly recommend the TZ watch school along with practice, practice, practice. Offer free service to friends and family (within reason, on the cheap stuff). Keep in mind that the 2824 and 2836 are EVERYWHERE and you'll have plenty of guinea pigs before you know it. After a while it will become like second nature.

quick question - would gen 2892 cannon pinion, hour wheel, and fourth wheel be compatible with the seagull st18 movement?