gavidoc

Hey Guys, Who would be a good person to talk to about a custom date disc for a Rolex? I want to do a silver date wheel for my Gen 16800. Only problem is that the date wheel's are impossible to find in silver for a 3035 movement. I have a gen 3035 date disc that I was going to remove the paint from.

Here you go. http://forums.timezo...o=6109500&rid=0 He's had it listed for about 3 weeks and has dropped the price. Only dropped the price by $150 to $4100. He's been trying to trade it since Feb. Either he's hard set on his asking price or he is just itching for something new but it isn't a strong itch. I'd shoot him an offer of $3950 shipped with half the fees and see what he does. Let me know if you go for it and how it works out. This on on Ebay might be possible. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLEX-Submariner-Stainless-Black-Dial-/200733408745?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item2ebca4bde9#ht_500wt_1202 Asking $4200. There have been a bunch of offers so I'm guessing they are either sticking tight or the offers are way too low. Again, I'd do $3850 and go from there.

That is insane.

If I come across one for the 3-4 range with SEL's I'll let you know. Typically if you can they don't have box and papers though. Just depends on what you are ok with.

Iirc 1680 dial is too big.

If you really want to build a Frankenstein using a gen movement and hands consider that those will run you around $1700 or so. Tack on $300-$500 for a bezel, add in the approx $200 you paid for the dial and you are sitting at 50% of a gen. That isn't including the hard to find gen crystal retainer you'll need for the gen bezel. Keep in mind you can find gens for $3500-$4000. All 3 of the gen Rolex subs I own were value buys. 5513 with gloss dial and no bracelet was purchased for $2950 1680 white all original with original bracelet and with recent service was $4000. 16800 matte with original dial/hands and bracelet and with recent service was $3500. The point is that if you are going to go that far towards gen you should just go gen. I learned that lesson the hard way with a Frankenstein Tudor Sub I built a few years ago. Do a search for my threads and you'll see what I'm talking about. Good rule to follow on a Frankenstein is the 20-30 rule.

I'm with Freddy on this one. I've seen tritium patina at different rates and it also varies by manufacturer. Omega tritium always decays very poorly compared to Rolex yet even Rolex will decay differently. I have a 1883 Rolex 16800 Sub matte dial and the tritium dial is completely dead but still very white. I also have a late run 9411 Snowflake (early 80's and same time frame as the rolex) that is a slightly cream white but the dial and hands still partially glow all night long. At one point I owned an early 80's Speedmaster. The tritium on it was completely dead and was a dark brown.

No need to do that Red. For it to be authentic you just need to take the edges off. Polish it and rebrush it. That should be sufficient. Remember, this watch is no more then 24 years old and almost all are in very good condition.

TJ The reason you are seeing fogging in cold weather is due to the moisture in the watch being warmer then the cool air. Picture you car windshield. Let's say it is 75 degrees outside and you have your defrost on AC at 67 degrees. Ever notice that film of fogging that occurs on the exterior of the windshield that you have to use you wipers to clear? Same concept. Now it might not be leaking and instead you have intermittent moisture in it from when you replaced the crystal. Get yourself some silica packets, open the case back and put the silica packets and the watch in a ziplock bag and leave it for a day. Resell and test. If it fogs again you have a leak.

Seems to be a decent redial. You got a pretty decent sub (excluding hte dial). How about some more pics? If you can save the 702 it's the way to go. That is the original crown for this watch. I've got the original on mine as well. It's awesome compared to the new 703.

They are the same parts as well for the Tudor Subs 7928, 7016, 7021, 9401, 9411, 76100, and 79090. I've always wondered if it was the same for the 79190 as well but don't know.

Red That will be a good watch but I didn't think the spiderweb dials were found on 168000's. Only some of the 16800's.

Didn't even discuss how early inserts had a higher profile then the later and modern ones. The higher profile ones worked really well with the transition on the super high dome T19 crystals.

Looks real. Price can vary. A brand new one from an AD or independent with a parts account should run around $100 US just like Justasgood stated. Used ones are all over the place with those in good condition with tritium pearl and flat four typically getting the higher amounts. Don't pay more then $200 for one of these. If you do you are being ripped off. We aren't talking plastic sub inserts.

Yes it will but as pointed out, the 16800 teeth are shallower then a 16610. If you can live with that it will work. They both use the same insert. If you decide not to purchase the bezel if you could let me know I'd appreciate it as I'm in need of a replacement for my 16800. Thanks Gav

Elitedealseeker.com

I like the datejust more. While your sub is nice it isn't accurate for a 7016. this is what a rose dial 7016 should look like. 1. Tritium mark is wrong 2. Second hand is wrong. 3. Pearl is wrong (but pointed out already) 4. The case profile is incorrect 5. I'll guarantee you that the interior case back stamp is wrong. My suggestion would be to get an source a snowflake dial and hands for it. Then it will be a lot more accurate.

Pearls are tricky. Not much of a market for the newer pearls as they don't normally fall out. Normal process is to just replace the entire insert if you lose one. Rarely see them for sale on the real forums. A tritium one would sell for more. I contacted Steve Mulholland about a pearl for my 16800 when believe it or not, I did actually lose mine. He quoted me $50 for a luminova one or $100 for a tritium one. I found mine the next day and didn't need to get one. Now the old style pearls are a different story. Typically for those a Luminova is around $100 and a tritium is $200. Just. For. The. Pearl. BTW, if you ever do decide to go a gen route and get a new insert with pearl, I'll buy your loose one off of you. Just let me know.

It is doable. To make sure it doesn't pop out use a Dab of glue on the back. Do you already have a pearl? They cost almost as much as an insert.

I agree. Buying that only makes sense if you have a gen with bad case. I bought my gen matte dial 16800 with 93150 bracelet last nov. for $3500.

Actually not too bad for a complete case. Consider a mid case and case back will run around 900 without bezel, crystal, or retaining ring.

You go matte 16800 and it's closer to $600. $200 is still a bit low. I'd say closer to $300 now.

Going o be in Guangzhou next month and want o contact Mary about a folded link bracelet. Need a replacement part for a gen bracelet but she isn't a dealer anymore. Your help would be awesome.

I agree that the MBW 5513 case works great. Built a super-franken Tudor Sub and a franken sub with those. While the caseback isn't correct, the Yuki and Phongs aren't correct either....Sure, they have the same profile and the right words but the way they are etched into the case, the fonts, everything about them is really bad. Having owned many real Tudor subs, I personally can't find that to be appealing at all. NOt to mention the whole ethical thing I have about selling fakes as real watches. With an MBW that isn't possible so for someone who really understands a tudor sub so the one that I sold outright and didn't break up can't be passed off as a gen. With these cases with...ahem...correct casebacks, those can be passed off easier to a less versed person trying to get a Tudor Sub.

Not a big fan of the new one with the case. Just doesn't work. The proportions of the original works better.