gavidoc

Were you able to get the gen bezel to work with the rep retaining ring? I wasn't able to on my Tudor build a few years ago and ended up getting a gen retaining ring/bezel combo instead.

So they do both flat top and round top 3's? Always wondered about that. I have 2 gens. One is a flat top 3 that came on my 16800. The other is a round top 3 that came on a 5513 I owned. Both gen.

If that is a gen dial it won't fit a 2824. Dial feet are in the same spot but too thick. Panerai153 is correct that the 2784 is what needs to be used but that is the fast beat version of the 2783. It will fit the MBw case. I built a super Frankenstein 9411 wit a 2784 and an MBw and a 9401 with a 2783 and the MBw case. My suggestion is to purchase a gen. The price delta for a good rep to gen is too high.

Great news. Now I thought it was a tritium luminova dial, tritium service dial is a different animal and your sell price was in line then. Well done.

Those recommending listing for $5000 are way out of line for one with a service dial. Sure service dials are rare and can go for $500 by themselves (that's what I paid), it's still a service dial. Immediate hit on the value. With no box or papers but a service and all original parts, bracelet with minimal stretch and matching date code on the clasp to the year of the watch I would say start at the $5000 mark and accept nothing lower then $4500. For a watch with a service dial but tritium hands, minimal stretch to the bracelet with a recent service and matching clasp date code I would say start at $4500 knowing that you might get a few takers at $4000 but that you might end up selling for less then $4000. If you still have the service hands and pearl, I would put those back on and sell it that way. You would still get around $4000 with matching service parts and could sell the tritium pearl for around $200 and the hands for around $150-$200 since to get hands you have to turn in a serial # now and Rolex tracks this information. I know this as I just did this myself. Service parts on a vintage sub are a tricky thing. Some like them, some don't.. To sell them on a watch with mismatched parts (some original and some service like hands and dial) will result in turning a lower profit then if you matched the parts up and sold the extras individually. By having tritium hands and a luminova dial you turn off both ends of the spectrum as it isn't original though you turn off those looking for a watch that lights up more then the other way. Still those looking for all original will immediately offer less due to the fact that a tritium dial will cost north of $600 to source for a period correct one in good shape with matching lume. on the other hand, having matching luminova dial and hands appeals to those looking for a modernized vintage that has good lume. Also, it will be easier to sell the hands and tritium pearl to a collector who has a 1680 with mismatched tritium lume parts.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll give PBdad a shout. As for the value of the dial....not an issue. I still have the original dial in my watch. This is a 2nd one I have that I got for the sole purpose of reluming it. I like matte dials but like lume as well. That's why my gen 1680 has a service dial and hands on it as wlel. the originals are tucked away.

So I know about The Zigmeister and PBdad. I used to own a Zig relumed gen Tudor snowflake dial and it was awesome work. Unfortunately, he has a time frame for when he accepts work and he is located in Canada. So, if I can find Zig's contact in my PM's and he is accepting work, I'm thinking I'll send my dial to him. Otherwise, would PBDad be a good alternative and is he US based? Here's the thing. I have a 16800 dial that had the tritium removed so the markers are pure white. I want to have it lumed and put in my gen 16800 so it glows. I have luminova hands in the watch already. I want the lume to be FLAT like found on the service matte dials (like my service 1680 dial) and on original 16800 dials. Not the pillowed look found on older dials. Is this doable with either of them? I have this as PBdad's email: pbdadcustoms@yahoo.com Correct?

Snowflakes use high beat movements so a 2846 is pointless due to wrong beat rate. Keep in mind: Tropic 125 = eta 2784 Tropic 127 = Rolex 1570 Tropic 144 = eta 2824 Why Tudors use different crystals between 2784 ( what a true snowflake uses) and a 2824 I'm not sure but my guess is for correct date magnification.

Nice pickup. The silver date wheels were found predominately on late serial 9411's and early 76100's.

That turned out nice. I like the hands that you used. Only thing I would have done different was left the case alone except the crown guards.

1250 plus tax but you have to send your watch to Rolex to verify it is supposed to get the 93250. That is the trad in price as you have to trade in your old bracelet. I don't know outright purchase price.

Very nice. Is that NATO nylon or canvas? Love the thread weave.

Confused what you mean. This is a gen watch.date disc is correct for a 16800.

Got this from Londongeorge87 and it is awesome. Props to him for being able to source these things at a great price. For those of you with builds that can take a gen crystal I highly recommend him and the crystal. This is what it looks like on a gen 16800 with an LV insert. Next step is to install a silver date disc.

Ofrei sells them for 9 bucks.

Nick, That's great info. Never knew that and I stand corrected. I used to own a 7016 from 1968 with the original bracelet. It was a 7206. Always figured based on that that the early tudors had the rivets.

Nick, I'm pretty certain all Tudor Subs came with either a 9315 with 380 endlinks or in the US during the 70's you could get a C & I rivet bracelet instead of a 9315 if you wanted for a cheaper price. Prior to the 70's it would have come on a 7206 rivet. The difference between the 9315 and the 7836 is the clasp. One is for divers, the other is not.

Can you send me a PM or email? gavidoc@gmail.com Your PM is full and I can't send one to you. Thanks.

Disagree Red. Hands and pearl look original. Not uncommon to have a dial with darker lume then the hands. Especially on the snowflakes. A 9315 or 9315T if you can find them in good shape will be around $500-$700. Save yourself some grief in that regards and just get yourself a good 93150. Many do this anyway as the 9315's wear out. You could sell the 7836 for around $300 or so. A nice 93150 will run you around $500 with some stretch.

Looking at it on my phone. Does the dial have dial rot? Hard to tell. Non-original bracelet, probably a 7836. Otherwise looks legit and good to go. Wasn't it just serviced? For a blue dial it's in the range price as the case looks pretty crisp. It's on the high end as it doesn't have the right bracelet. As an assist for price reference, I just sold a black dial 9411 with service insert, head only and just serviced for $2750. Condition wise mine had been polished.

The early gloss dials did 1 of 3 things. 1. Nothing and remained glossy. 2. Cracked due to the lacquer mixture for the gloss creating the spiderweb effect. 3. Dulled due to the tritium and went from gloss to matte. I think (correct me if wrong) but there were never matte dials with gold surrounds. If you see a matte dial with gold surrounds it is due to # 3 from above. I say this with some knowledge but not all.

Holy sh!t man I'm game. Email me some pics please. Gavidoc@gmail.com

Turns out this was the problem Freddy. I bought the 1680 after it was just serviced. It had a new tube and crown installed. I swung by my AD today who also services watches and he said that when they replace crowns it isn't uncommon to have to trim or replace a stem to fit a new crown. Took one look at my 1680 and said the stem was too long. Took it in the back, trimmed the stem and now the crown screws down all the way. Now perhaps the problem arose since the 1680 might have had a 702 crown or maybe it was a 703. Ill never know. He also took a look at this crown and said it was genuine. Here is the bottom of it. I can't get a good clean shot of it so these will have to do. Turns out the travel of the crown when you push this one in is 1/32 less than my 1680 crown yet the travel is shorter then my 5513 crown by 1/64.

something like that would make me wonder...why is the date mechanism missing? And the condition of that rotor is rough which makes you wonder if the rotor axel is ok.

I'll take some tonight and post them. It looks JUST like the ones on my subs. Same dimensions, nice coronet, everything. Never seen one this good. That's what I get for getting my parts mixed up. I had two real ones. Used one and then completely forgot about this one till the other day digging through my random bits and pieces.