gavidoc

If you want a gen 700 tube shoot me a PM. I've got one.

And that answers that. Looks like what I thought was a gen crown in my parts bin is just a good rep. Didn't know they fit gen tubes.

So it would be a common issue that if I replace one crown (that fit ok originally) with a new one that I might have to do some work on the stem to get the 2nd one to fit correctly?

Need some help gents. qUick backstory. I have a gen 1680. The crown doesn't want to screw down all the way. I have (what I think) is a gen triplock crown sitting in my parts bin. So I do the following: Note the location of the "Rolex Crown" on the....Crown in relation to the case. Remove the old crown and stem. Test fit the the replacement crown (which I think is gen) and it goes all the way down on the crowntube like it is supposed to. The "Rolex Crown" on the crown lines up in the exact same place in relation to the case as the original one. I say to myself, "Yes!" I remove the old crown from the stem and install the 2nd crown (which I think is gen) I reinstall the stem/ 2nd crown combo. I can't close the darn crown now. It won't engage the crowntube threads. It now appears that the stem is TOO long. My question: Does this make sense? Would I have to adjust the stem to fit a different crown or do I have a rep crown and think it's a real crown? Reason I thought it was a real crown is that I have 2 other rep crowns in my parts bin (both from MBW builds) and they wouldn't fit the tube. I can take some pics of the culprit tonight for identification.

Will it work with lug hole subs? I see the newer Rolex spring batsman the renderings and 185 bones for just the rubber is pricey.

Yep. My gen is like that

Thanks. Didn't realize it was a similar setup to my 1680.

I'm getting an AR crystal and I want to install it but damn am I having a hard time finding any info on how to actually do it.

That's right Freddy. I did forget they could be found on the 7928's. As Nick said, they were available in gilt as well. Later replacements are small ball. Also the first warning sign IMO of a rep 7016.

The 7016 came in 3 different dial variations. The first found on early 7528 stamped casebacks are of the Rose dial variation and are the exact same as the 7928's. The big thing about the early 7528 caseback 7016 Rose's are the unique case. Found on no other Sub be it Rolex or Tudor. They had a semipointed crown guard and flat and thin lug profile to others. The other unique thing to differentiate the Rose 7016 from the Rose 7928 were the second hand balls. The 7016's has the larger ball. Both the 7928 and the 7016 has a large ball. For the watch to be original it should have the large ball on the second hand. The Rose dialwas followed up by the shield dial (as shown above). The dial was found on some semipointed crownguard sub cases as the Rose dial was but you also see these on the traditional shaped cases of the 5513/1680/7016/7021/9401/9411 variety. This also has the big ball second hand. These were followed in 1970 with the first snowflake dialed 7016's. These are unique as they only say SWISS on them. No T Swiss T. Only the earliest 7016 Snowflakes had this. Shortly after that the normal and well known T SWISS T stamped snowflake 7016 became available.

nope

They take the same date disc but the position of the dial/date to bottom of crystal might be different.

I'm really not certain what the difference between the 125 and the 144 is. I correlate the differences to the type of movement. 125 = 2784 144 = 2824 Perhaps the location of the date to the dial is different thus the huge date magnification. Here are what the different mags look like. These are all my gens. Only the 9411 has an aftermarket Clark's 125 which is pretty close to correct. 1680 with gen 127 9411 with Clark 125 79090 with a worn 144 16800 with a 295c Some more I used to own. All gen. 9411 with gen 125 9411 with gen 125

Only way is to pay for a superfraken. Blue with gen parts for accuracy dont pop up very often as blue parts are hard to get.

Thanks. I was apprehensive considering what I paid for it but it was definitely worth it.

100% Gen Tudor Snowflake 9411. I had to put a Clarks crystal on it though as I cracked the original. I'll replace that when I send the watch in for an appraisal at my AD.

Here you go with an entire list. 79090 uses the 25-144.

Yep. I personally learned the hard way. Went all out on this superfranken Tudor Sub.....Big mistake. The only thing not real was the case. I had a buddy who had a line on a 9411 case for dirt cheap that didn't pan out. As a result I had this beauty. http://www.rwg.cc/to...__fromsearch__1 Decided to sell it and was way off. No one was willing to pay almost half the price for it. Ended up parting it out. In the long run I actually came out ahead by parting it out.

Latest and only. Gen black with gen blue insert.

Might be the angle. Here is my gen 16800.

I agree. Only thing is I don't need a movement and not interested in tying $1300 up in a movement for a date disc and hope I can eventually sell it for what I bought it at. Ya know?

IMO, it only makes sense to think you can turn a profit after you have worn a watch for a while if it's a gen. IMO, it's ridiculous to try and recoup more then what you paid for a rep unless it's a really sought after never to be found rep etc.

Thanks. I'll contact JMB. I will use a 2nd date disc for the project and not touch my open 6 and 9 date disc even though it's white. Just want that silver. Will be the perfect completion for the trifecta. My 1680 and my 9411 both have the silver date discs. Saw a 3035 movement on VRM that sold a few weeks ago. Had a silver date disc but the movement was $1300. Not going to pay that for a date disc.

I'm on the list for one of LondonG's. Gonna put it on my Gen 16800. Hate the glare of the cyclops.

hence the reason I say to shoot them offers. Doesn't hurt and you might be surprised.