AKTime

I gambled and sent one back once and it never made it. I will never gamble and do it again. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I have bought Gen parts from Kiril before and had no issue. He has a pretty good reputation on VRF. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

My Royal Oak twins

My first Black Bay came with a dead movement that would run sporadically.

The catalog is free, just got to the AB website and request one. It is really, really nice. I have one and its actually a bound book with AMAZING pictures. Nicest catalog I have ever seen. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I agree on the toothpicks. Great non-marring tools for some jobs.

I agree he is a top notch gentleman and his communication and dedication are unbeatable. I will be a customer of his until one of us croaks! Now stop telling everyone about him!!

I use a sticky ball to remove case backs. Haven't had a single case back I couldn't open yet. I bought one of those tool kits and ended up replacing everything because honestly the tools were garbage. I recommend a NICE screwdriver kit, these will be used for link replacements and movement screws don't go cheap here. You will want a set that you can replace the blades on. This http://www.esslinger.com/tool-kit-for-opening-watch-backs.aspx kit has the basics that you will need for opening case backs. I use the bergeon screwdrivers that have the rotating base that holds them, cheaper ones are fine though. You will want some Rodico for cleaning and handling small pieces, a fine pair of tweezers, a nice hand puller, a decent hand setter, etc. I have simply found that buying the tools piece meal has been easier for me.

I agree that the asian 2813 is the best bang for the buck. I usually buy mine in this config and the upgrade with my own sourced swiss movement and upgraded hands at a later date. The QC is much better this way.

The way I see it, Reps of watches like the 5517, 6542, some 1675 versions, etc.. are no longer even in production. The cost of owning an original is so absurdly out of my price range that me owning a replica of said watches is not taking a dime out of Rolex corps wallet. To me it's akin to building a Shelby Cobra kit car.

I'm in the search for a 7206 or other vintage 19mm clasp or clasp blade if you have one to part with. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure if they interchange or not. I know that the guy working on it has used some swiss parts so far but hasn't been able to find a replacement for the GMT wheel yet. I may have to end up parting it out if I end up not finding the part.

Parts value alone of gen Swiss ETA, insert, crystal, and crown would be around 800-1000.00 alone. That's assuming a cost of 400.00 on the insert. I don't see them very often for less than that.

Looks like a gen 703 crown to me.

Thanks, I will keep my eyes open for one of those. I prefer no-date subs, so much simpler to build. I simply despise fooling with date overlays.

I have an 0089 with a busted GMT wheel. It's currently at the watchmaker waiting on a non-existent part to show up. I have been trying to source a 7750 GMT for parts to no avail.

Cartel = Perfect Clones or Trusty? I just noticed that you said SD. I already have two Seadwellers but no sub!

I am looking into purchasing a TC sub soon. I prefer the cleaner no-date look for subs but I am having a hard time finding a no-date dial. I prefer not to go ceramic if possible. Any ideas folks?

Looks like an ETA 2846 movement to me to be perfectly honest with you. They are 21 jewel and the balance wheel looks correct for that model. Definitely not Rolex, they never made a rotor that looks like that. Almost all of them have horizontal slots in them, also red reversing wheels.

Yep! I was watching one on the bay the other day, first one I have seen in ages and someone contacted the buyer and bought it early. It only went for 400.00 too. I was fairly upset! I have a reprint on a singer plate but it's not quite 100% and the patina of a gen is hard to replicate.

That's a 5500 explorer dial and a 15000 DJ case. Not really the correct combination but you could buy it and sell the 15000 case and get the proper 5500 case for that dial pretty easily. Not sure what if any differences there are between the two. Well, it's a 15000 caseback at least. The correct one should read 5500 or sometimes they have the airking back with ref 1002

Thanks!

Do you happen to have the file for that caseback sticker? I would love to experiment with making my own. Thanks!

I have the 00089 E series and it's a very stunning looking watch. I love the Anthracite dial and the fact that it goes so well with very many straps. Now for the bad. Parts for the A7750G GMT complication movement are very hard to come by. Knowing now what I didn't know back then I would send one in for a good service as soon as purchased. I didn't and the GMT hand and date quickset stopped working. I sent it in for a fix and now finding the correct parts have proven painful at best. I love the watch, but for longevity sake, you might forgive any models with seconds at 9 since they will require the 7750 modded movement. Of course mine might have been saved with a preemptive service, so YMMV.