hologramet

I present to you... New insert and new triangle. Note to self... Brushing the ceramic tio much and son you will have a broken insert

Looks great! Good to see that the dials came to good use!

From the thread: 29mm, dial feet for ETA Dial: 100 + 50 USD HelenaRou Ceramic sub hands: onlinestorehk aprox 20 USD Adding extra seconds hands to make you chose the favourite: Big Lollipop Red second hand: TigerConcept aprox 8 USD Red Yachtmaster hand Rafflesstore: aprox 8 USD HelenaRou 6538-seconds hand: aprox 5 USD Modding + relume by Big Daz: 120 GBP 100 + 50 + 20 + 8 + 8 + 8 + 174 = 368 USD Asking 300 USD incl. tracked shipping WW (also check out the rest of the classifieds)

I hope it's useful! Looking forward to the results!

Uhm... Does anyone have a spare SubC bezel... I had a little accident with a blowtorch and some cold water. Let's just call it "accidental expansion".

My 5512 (but from dung_chrono)

HR 6538 w/ some Big Daz magic

I can recommend the torch-style as you can see and thus control the heat much better, I tried the oven too and destroyed 2 dials (never tried inserts) before I gave up...

I can show you the look on a Snowflake insert... How it turns from a bleached purple-ish (horrible) blue to a beautiful tropical more "natural" blue. Don't have any spare black inserts to show you on unfortunately... I might give it a go on my brand spanking new MBW 5512-insert, but considering it has a beautiful (rare) kissing 4's + kissing 5's insert that I don't know if there are any spares to purchse, I don't know if I'm willing to risk it on currently (the final color is a complicated mic of bleaching it right and cookind it right). And that is much easier if you can reverse an unfortunate mistake.

My tip is using a black insert, 1) give it a nice and (slow) go with a nail buffer at about 2000-4000 grit to remove the gloss 2) Then a very light bleach 3) then use a torch lighter and lightly torch it from under (imagine a junkie with a spoon-type of way). A tip is creating a holder out of something that doesn't conduct heat very well, e.g. paper towel The dark grey/light black will turn browner and browner.. 4) Last but no least then give ita spray with a glossy varnish, let it dry very thoroughly (preferable over night) Last finish, another go with a nailbuffer at as high grit as possible to even out the varnish layer. That's my cooking recipe, I imagine there are other...

So in other words the MBW uses "gen spec" 703-type-crown-tube and therefore a 700-"gen spec"-type-crown tube should fit without having to be retapped... That sounds great! That however doesn't sound that amazing... Hmm.. Let see if Mr jackflash maybe can help me here!

I think it might be time to see what a really high DPI-printer could do with those templates. A tip is to use the gif-files and insert them in a Word-doc and then print to avoid working with 30000 x 20000 pixel Photoshop print files.

Look what I just found... They used to be Cartel 5513 dials.

rehaut = the metal part that seems to join the "crystal" border downwards to the dial. It says ""Rolex \ / Rolex ...." ar = antireflex (coating) sel = solid end link (the fitment between the case/lugs to the bracelet end links

I did some more work on it.. Filled out "gaps" in the text. Adjusted levels for all layers. Then converted to 256 color greyscale gif. 2400 x 2400 px. If you could help me with the drill + tap, I'd be very grateful. No worries. 2 times is better than 0 (and no tools...) It's all about open source, sharing is caring! /V 6538Aplati-v3.psd

Here we go... High-resolution, with more correct fonts... And in greyscale (not black-white) hopefully softer gradients/less blocky sharpness Bart.. You owe me a Tap+Drill for a Big Crown on my Tempus Machina 6538Aplati-v2.psd Here's a low res-preview.. It needs some manual work with 3 to 7 px brushes to fill out small grey gaps in the logo and text. But it's a good base to work on!

A question to Athaya afficionados... Does the 700-crown and the tube on MBW 5512 work together or is the tube + drill + retapping needed?

I have a Raffles caseback that's collecting dust, send me a PM.

I'll do some magic this weekend, maybe we can bump up the crispness a notch! Impressive so far, very impressive! ... so wait a bit with the new dial!

Could you upload your psd (the single dial, not the one with several filling up a paper)? I'll try to do some basic superimposing this weekend if you wish...

There seem to be severak different types of the same dials/insert etc.. I have a small pearl and the same flat + kissing 4-insert as some others on a 5512. "Vietnam" gilt dial Drill the lug holes, Rework the cg to pointy, Throw on a athaya 700-tube + crown Add an athaya pearl TC-hands 16613 Clarks T19-superdome

The dial above is good but the coronet, fonts and distances are off... t Try patching in parts from this, and then do the superimposing of a coronet and fonts with this as reference.. I can clean it up for you at home this weekend maybe... Otherwise, rotate it, then use lens correction to remove the angled tilt in it..

See if you can find some use for these:

Ok, I see... Then I'm wondering wether it's the paper or the printer that isn't ultra-high in the DPI as it's quite unsharp in the details. How big is the dial-size you've retouched the dials in? 1200 DPI = 1200 (dots)/25.4 (mm per inch)* 28 (mm dial) at least 1300 pixels x 1300 pixels. If I would work in pixels Id be working at a minimum of 2 x the necessary resolution. So the canvas size at 2600 x 2600 pixels.

I would recommend you to learn to draw with vectors in Photoshop. Make a circle with a correct border for the chapter dial. Then the thick and thin markers. Then the circles, rectangles, triangle. Then super-impose fonts "above the" pixels. When you are finished you should be able to hide the "original" pixel layer and voila... You have a vectorized form, without having to learn Adobe Illustrator. Check my Tempus Machina thread, I did a similar thing when "reverse engineering" the 300 / 1000 - dial. You will also find some fonts and Rolex logo to start with.