GenTLe

What it will happen: one day he will get this watch. And after 2 weeks this will come to his mind "was all that greadiness only this? And now?". This happens ALWAYS when you are overexpecting an object.

Mate we are in the 3rd millennium: take a stinky big sh_t, put on it a sign with written on "design object", give it an expensive price and it will sell like hot cakes. Our defunct artist Pietro Manzoni, as form of protest against the "conceptual art" did what below. And he had a very long sight Ah, forgot to say that I am waiting my Seven Friday V2 to be released from customs

Someone told me they (AP) even use the 280 grit one Screws? I have placed them here: Then if heavily chewed I passed them flat over some 1000 grit paper and finished with dremel and some fine metal polish paste of the kit in the pic: I also have around some coarse and fine carborundum engine valve seat grinding paste I use to do this job: But they may be a bit too abrasive for watches Maybe one day I will give them a try...

Lol, I used a very similar way without even knowing it Thanks all guys!

Difficult to explain in words... An aluminium bar, larger than the bezel, with a taped strip of 320 grain sandpaper. That way you can keep the bezel (represented by the coin) with 2 hands (one each side of the bar) and nove it back and forth: Important is to end over the tape when it is time to lift the bezel, otherwise lifting it over the sandpaper may scratch it in a different direction.

From some time I was fancying an Ap ROO Diver in SS. Problem was that I already had a full ceramic one and I didn't want to put too much money into a brand new or a shiny M2M watch. Then Vynilspin put on M2M over RWG.bz a Noob 5.1 SS Diver... The watch has been used continuously by his son and without real care, with the result of scratches (but not on the crystal), dings, chewed screws on the case back, badly working keyless works, a nearly broken strap rubber ring, clasp springbar rusted and blocked and stem unscrewed crown. But it was priced accordingly and I got it for around 210$ shipped. This is how it was when I received it: First thing to do was complete unassemble of the case. One of the passthrough screws was a bit blocked (the guy used it to swim and some water passed in it), so the tweezer was not strong enough to unscrew the hidden midcase nut. With a dremel and a bit of patience I make a tool that worked pretty well and did the job: Using the crystal press (note: Noob diver crystal comes out from the back: you need to push the crystal from the part that normally is outside of the watch, contrary of the normal way where you push from the inside part) and some patience because the antimagnetic movement cover had 1 out of 4 screws that was stripped I obtained this: Here after have them all washed properly: Another evening dedicated to movement disassembly, cleaning and drying (here after I had started to oil and reassemble some bits like the autowind bridge, the click and the balance jewels): Here the mainspring (and another spare one) after cleanup and greasing: During the disassembly I discovered some broken parts, the reason of keyless working bad was there. The setting lever was gone, the stem wasn't in good shape and also the minute wheel teeth were not good. Ordered the spares from Cousins UK (apart the.minute wheel that I already had around): Here the movement half done: And completed: Meanwhile one evening was used to fix as much as possible the case. Here the bezel after the border repolish and surface rebrushing -case has been rebrushed and repolished too-: Caseback screws before and after (kept in place using a 1mm lead pencil head): The case done, mounted back with greased gaskets, waiting to get the movement: Movement in, nearly ready for calibration, still with the stem to shorten Calibration was good: Finally the head completed (antimagnetic stripped screw has been replaced too): And, in the end, a pic of it completed at day light: Me/happy Cheers!

Maaaan with all those horses I can't imagine the fodder amount!

Half way solution is to get a brand new Seagull clone and swap it. The new movement comes for around 80$

Yes, what SSteel wrote. It may be also the pallet fork below but hard to say from here...

Yes, exactly what I said. But stop playing with it unless you want the impact jewel to comes out from the balance staff (and seriously risk to kill the movement)!

For such problem on a glossy dial I have succesfully used a cotton swab with a little amount of fine car body professional polish. I have made the cotton swab wet with the polish and then passed it lightly on the dial until the scratches went away. Then I washed the dial with a bit of soap and water (important to remove the residue of the polish that may damage the paint if left there, even if invisible) and rinsed it with distilled water. I used a microfiber rag to dry it. The results have been perfect: It was scratched between the dial center and the word "precision", due to too thick lume in the hour hand.

Probably the impact jewel escaped from the pallet fork. You need to take the movement out from the case by removing the stem/crown and the movement holder scews, unscrew the balance bridge, carefully lift the balance bridge and balance wheel (avoiding to touch the hairspring) and put them back properly so that the balance spins in both directions. Nothing really difficult with a couple of good screwdrivers, a movement holder and a good pair of tweezers.

Hi guys, do you remember the stem size of a standard 2824 asian clone? 0.9 or 1 mm? Also do you remember if (as I kind of remember they may be misrepresented) the cousinsuk stem size are correct, meaning a tap9=1mm or not (tap9=0.9mm)? Thanks! GenTLe

Date wheel overlay? Nope that's the Noob stock dwo The scalpel comes straight from the hospital surgery room (these plastic ones are one use only) and has probably cut someone's belly some time ago It has been washed (instead of being thrown away) with some surgery soap and gave to me from my aunt who is a nurse there. You can find them new (at least here in Italy) in every pharmacy.

Actually I've always removed the stem in winding position for the ETA based ones, and in time setting position when dealing with Miyota and/or 21j. Therefore with ETA it was going back into winding, and in Miyota sometimes it was entering fine in time setting, sometimes it was clicking back to winding. When you reinsert it do it delicately, rotating the stem until you feel it is fitting into the winding pinion (which has a squared hole).

Gen 7750 stem will do the job. You can find them here (in EU): https://www.cousinsuk.com Search for: VAL7750401T12G and VAL7750401T9G (due to the low cost I'd suggest you to get both, the difference is in the diameter of the threaded part) Other source in US are Ofrei or Esslinger

Thanks Mark!! Great job as usual! A little question: when put back together the mainspring after cleaning / oiling, do you use a mainspring winder and a closing tool like these? Or you manage to do everything by hand? I'm contemplating to get a winder from some time but they are soooo expensive :/

English here, mate. Anyway no, it's ok. Just the pic is centered on the dial, so there is a parallax error that makes it to seem that way.

Not again Fluffy... Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

If it is scrutinized, just remember that all Rollie GMT reps have the so called "wrong hand stack", which means that while in the gen the order of the hands (from the top) is seconds, minutes, GMT and hour hand, in the reps they are seconds, minutes, hour and GMT. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

And done!

7753 will probably need the reposition of the stem because the modified 7750 has 2 plates more between the dial and the original 7750 unmodified. Ask Walter (the owner of the shop I and alligoat linked), he had them and I bought one sec @9 7750 with 3-6-9 config from him 1 year ago. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

For 7750: that's a modified one. 7750 has subdials at 6-9-12, not at 3-6-9. You won't find any spare part for those parts that are modified. And a Swiss 7750 will not help either for the very same reason. Best you can do is to steal the movement from one of those ProHunter Daytona that Toro has on discounted price, or to buy a new movement from the bay (look here: http://stores.ebay.com/toolbox2009/ )

No need for platinumization this time: it is the V5, already platinumized from Noob I have put a bit of cyanacrilate on the back of the pearl, and probably will use a tiny amount of epoxy (long time drying one) to fix in place the bezel insert Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

It is proceeding fine Bezel removed: After 20mins in the oven at 60°C here the slow and careful removal of the insert: Out and well dirty of glue: Cleaned: