GenTLe

Isn't there a sender name/city/phone nr or email on the parcel? By the way I love boobies too. And also nicely upside-down heart shaped female bottoms!

Welcome!!

Thank you Camaya, but I think for those interested this is the bible of it (found this morning): http://www.awci.com/wp-content/uploads/watch-tech-guides/venus/175-Tech.pdf

Venus 175, not 75...

Hello all! Please, can someone of you pointing me to which is the eccentric screw to touch in order to regulate, on a SeaGull ST-19, the engagement of the gears that makes the central second hand (the chronograph one) to move? I put here the pic of the ST-19 for your commodity: The equivalent of the one I'm searching, but in a 7750, is this one: Thank you! GenTLe

Ouch. So how hard DID they kick you over that one? They treated me well, all considering. I never opened a movement before and clearly I hadn't ANY clue on how to deal with it. And the experienced watch technicians there treated me like a fool that tried to do something I shouldn't have tried from the beginning. Then after I got good amount of tools, read some watchmaker book and practice a lot... And thanks to the reps (all mine) with various issues on which whichI practiced, I became quite good with them Latest error has been posting there the complete overhaul of a rep IWC chrono with a 7750. Of course I declared it was a rep and clearly wrote that I wouldn't have learned what I did if it wasn't for them. But some idiot (probably one of those that goes to Breit AD even for changing the battery of their quartz) started to scream (it was an Italian fora) things like "Oh my god! FFFAAAAAAKKKEEEEEEE! Fake watch and fake horologist!!!!" and behaving like a [censored] and I promised my self NEVER AGAIN. I have seen them sucking their dicks each other but not about horologist knowledge. Just doing it in a race to show off who is the richest asshat. Idiots.

I have been there too. And (massive error) asked for help over a gen fora. On a 21j bad rep bought in Instambul... Then I found this place

Get some of this and fill the crown for 1mm thickness: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/adhesives-sealants/specialty-adhesives/permatex--liquid-metal-filler-detail

Are you sure? This is Noob V4 as from watchstation site: This v2 or v3 from Toro: V4 from Ryan: Check how is the tube of your one respect the 1st pic.

Not that difficult. It is the very first mod I did on my very 1st rep, a Pam 164. I used a large file kept flat on the table with a clamp and passed the CG slowly keeping it with 2 fingers carefully not to angle the grinding. Another option is to remove the crown/stem and put 2 component epoxy glue on the top of the crown, in the middle of it and with the crown face up, in order to create a shape like this one:

I doubt the problem is in the CG. Normally it is caused by the crown tube pressed too much inside the case. In that occurrence the only 2 ways is to put a thicker gasket between the crown and the tube or to work on the CG surface (where they go against the case) with a file to make the lever nearer to the crown...

No one will probably touch a watch messed up by someone else...

Glad it is still useful for someone! Thank you

Best bet is on new Noob V6s SubC.

I think now I got what was wrong there... They (ETA) show to put the oil in the INNER site of the jewel, which is a crazy thing (see below). I never used that movement until now, and I'm re-servicing it. I see my noobyness also because I heavily over-oiled all the keyless parts there...

The day of strange watches... I was wearing this: And then from an m2m deal I received this:

But it happens. Last AP I fixed (a2824) had a part of the keyless completely gone. Luckily the gen part fit perfectly

Well... Servicing a movement without doing the "front part" because he didn't want to remove the dw was unprofessional on the 1st he did. That's not the way to do that job... And I agree that putting back the date disk spring on a watch with a wide dwo is not a easy thing, but if I did it many times, not damaging it and being just a "tinkerer" I can't get that a professional cannot just do it... By the way I don't use the way explained by the thread you reference. I prefer to unscrew the date spring plate and take away all in a proper way. The difficulty part is putting those 2 parts back fitting them properly below the dwo. But again: it IS feasible, with some patience.

When it happened to me they just wanted to know the value for pure custom duties. Give them a call and ask what is the problem. If they start to speak about counterfeit tell them you are not waiting for a counterfeit watch but for an homage you bought on AliExpress

Old thread: I found that the Asian 2824 and 2836 both use the 0.9mm thread stem. And also that Cousins UK sells what is a tap 10 (0.9mm) calling it tap9 (in reality tap9 should be a 1MM threaded stem)

Some other addition (thanks to Kennycoder from RWG.bz): OLD: NEW:

A mate over RWG recently got an "SWF" factory Portuguese and made a VERY interesting discovery: the infamous sec@6 7750 has been modified. This was the original one that was giving lots of problems and was basically stopping after some time: The problem was caused by those gears used to move the second hand from 9 to 6, which were partially running without any jewels and therefore stressing hardly the movement because of their metal-on-metal friction. The new one he got instead looks like this: A totally different system to transfer the motion of the second hand from 6 to 9, and finally jeweled gears! THIS should push enormously the sell of the watches based on this new movement version because of no more flickering second hand and, more important, a movement which is not fated to die quickly like the old version. Because of this, it would be great if the TDs put in the album of the watches they have online, a photo (given you from the factory: I'm not asking them to disassemble a watch) showing the movement before the placement of the dial on it. Or, at least, have something in the description that makes clear the specific watch is using the "new sec@6 jeweled transfer gears asian 7750". Will we ever have something like that? Who knows... But the option should be really considered! Cheers, GenTLe

Actually I am starting to like the Seawolf Avenger II :-D

Absolutely no. It is as smooth as an eta. Only the rotor, if dry, is a bit more noisy winding in one direction only (so when it spins in the opposite direction...). Here the smoothness:

Just open it (as should be done for every rep to grease the gaskets and check the screws (in this case also you need to check the lugs screws too) and put a SMALL amount of oil in the bearing. The 9015 is actually a very very good 28800 movement and a part the bit of noise (stay FAR AWAY from the Bell&Ross 123 if this is a problem) it is extremely stable and less temperamental than the eta clones.