GenTLe

I think this is the GlashOtte one. Wrong name in the dial, wrong sec dial position and power reserve that works in the reverse way: the more you charge it, the more the pr hand goes towards zeropower... Useless rep :/ Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

IF it is a real chrono it will be fantastic! Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

I don't think so. If you can't lose 80Eur this game definitively is not for you. Shipping fees are always on you. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

I just want to advise something based on my experience. Read ALL before you start unassemble your watch to discover you miss something necessary half way... First let me explain what reverse wheels are... They can be found only in automatic watches, and not in all of them (Seiko for instance use a cam&levers system, and also some of our 23j have the Seiko system, like the UN Maxi Marine non chrono), but definitively they are present in all ETA variants like 2824, 2836, 2834, 7750, 7751, 7752 (the gmt one) and 7753... They looks like these: They are responsible to transmit the motion of the rotor to the main spring, and work more or less like a bicycle pinion: when the rotor (your legs for the bicycle) rotates faster than the gears connected to the main spring (faster than the bicycle rear wheel), then the rotor motion is transmitted to the main spring, winding it (then your legs power is transmitted to rear bicycle wheel, increasing your speed). Instead if the gears connected to the main spring rotates faster than the rotor (typically when the watch is on the table quiet or when you manually wind the watch with the crown), the reverse wheel disengage and does NOT transmit the motion to the rotor (like on the bicycle when you are going and stop to move your legs). This is particularly valid for the single direction autowind like the 7750, but can be acceptable also for the bidirectional autowinding system like the 2836 where you have 2x reverse gears. So, what may happen to these very complicated gears? Well, basically just 2 things: 1) they can lack of lubrication, or be lubricated with wrong systems. 2) they can break. The 1st case is the most common one, and has a typical symptom: the manual winding action appear stiff, when you hand wind the watch the rotor tend to spin or really spins (typically when the watch is kept horizontally). The 2nd case (I have an Hublot with this problem) is much more rare and makes instead the autowinding system not to work at all: the rotor just rotate but doesn't charge the main spring. Only solution for this is to replace the reverse gears. Let's concentrate on the most common case. So the hand wind is stiff and you want to fix it. On 2836/2824/2834 it is not complex: you need to open the case back, then you need to remove the rotor unscrewing the big central screw here: then you need to remove the 2 screws that keeps on the autowind bridge (1.2mm screwdriver) and lift the autowind bridge. You recognize the right screws because they are normally black. They are the ones missing from the 2 smaller holes here: After you have removed the autowind bridge, put it upside down on a surface and remove the screw that keeps there the gears (reverse wheels and the other 2 reduction gears). Here you can see a VERY dirty autowind bridge upside down: You should arrive to have all in bits like in this pic where you can see 3x autowind bridge disassembled: Now it is time to properly clean all. For the 2 bridges I normally use a toothbrush with some soapy degreaser to do the first coarse wash, then I put all (gears, bridges and even the screw) in my ultrasonic cleaner loaded with a warm mixture of 50cl of ammonia + 36cl acetone + 14cc oleic acid + enough demineralized water to reach 1 liter and let them be cleaned for around 5 minutes. After this I put them into demineralized water and let them rinse in the water and in the ultrasonic washer for other 3/4 minutes. Finally you need to let everything dry over a lint-free paper (I sometime use 50°C heated oven to make the process quicker. YES YES, I know ETA lubrication charts tells to not clean the reverse wheel... They just want you to buy new ones. I did and they were stiffer than the original asian ones!!!! So now it's time to CORRECTLY lubricate those 2 bastards... There are many formulas and wizard's mixtures advertised here and there as the solution to lubricate the ETA reverse wheels (considering also the 775x movements)... I tried them all, but the only PROPER product I found to do the job is the one that ETA itself developed to lubricate their reverse wheels, and it's named "LUBETA v105" (http://hiro.alliancehorlogere.com/en/Under_the_Loupe/Lubeta_V105). It is not that cheap and I found few places that sells small amount of them. My source is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400720621082 Do not mess up with the V106 which is for something else (http://hiro.alliancehorlogere.com/en/Under_the_Loupe/Lubeta_V106) and that can be substituted safely with a tiny amount of HP1300. Wet well the reverse gears with this V105 product (sometimes I even immerse the reverse gears in the solution) and then let the reverse gears to dry completely over a surface (better a clean metallic one: don't use something that can absorb it or that could be melted by the V105 thinner). Then follow this chart to reassembly everything, and you will find out that the hand wind will be smooth like a brand new gen ETA (regardless it's an asian or eta movement): One last tip: when you are mounting back the rotor, do NOT tight fully the central screw: as soon as it start to get tight, make the rotor to rotate: sometimes it doesn't engage properly with the wheels of the autowind bridge, and if you tighten it in that state you can bend the wheels and make a mess... Finally: 775x is similar, but it is MUCH more difficult to unassemble and reassemble because there are a lot of bits to align to fit the autowind bridge, so I don't suggest anyone to try if it is not really confident to work on watch movements...). See here on the other RWG -> http://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?showtopic=1039 Ah, very last thing: while on the 2836/2824/2834 you can fit gen ETA spare parts, with 775x you can't (tried today with the mentioned Hublot): it seems that it fits, but the reverse gear pinions are 0.2mm for the asian ad 0.38mm for the ETA/Valjoux and even if you can then reassemble everything apparently well, then the rotor doesn't engage the reverse wheel properly... Cheers, GenTLe

Just unscrew it with a sticky ball http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XurACI4qIO8 or with one of these:

Dammit... Francis (WatchStation, the wholesale sales guy of Angus Puretime) told me "Yes It's available" just to receive a damn "Sorry out of stock" after paying! These things drive me crazy: I asked them 3 times to check if it was really available!

A nice not so common one today, on real croc strap from Vietnam

Wow that mainspring looks terrible! The rest could be fixed but definitively not that spring I think. So this is one of those mixed aswissen one eh? Seeing it I so much more love the Seagull clones!! Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Toro once told me he has a friend watch technician in Spain. Maybe you can send the watch there... Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

After a loooong work in it, finally on my wrist!

Amazing amount of info here! Thanks I know I could have bet to find the right knowledge here Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

I also was thinking to get the double red SD:) You just confirmed my feelings About being scrutinized: I don't know anyone that has a vague idea of what a seadweller is, let alone the vintage models details A part for a colleague who is around 44yo and regularly sports his one that apparently got for his 18th birthday (alternating it with a speedmaster) but he knows mine are rep Legend, what about MBW? Is him still around? (had to Google to discover what he is) Anyway I don't want to franken them: at most I will rework the CG but I will never start to spend huge amount of money for little gen details: if I can't see the differences between gen and rep parts without a loupe, then I prefer my money to go into something else Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Hi guys, popping up here as I know that here there are the best Rolex experts around the various rep fora (and probably gen forums too!). Making it short: I'd like to add to my collection a vintage piece, and not having any black dial/bezel Rolex watch, I started to read (mainly from here: http://www.doubleredseadweller.com/ ) and I' ve shorten my list to these 2 ones. One is a red sub 1680, 200m=660ft with closed 6, sop basically a Mark I. This one: http://www.puretime.watch/product/vintage-red-submariner-1680-200m660ft-with-closed-6/ The other is a double red SeaDweller, which, in this form, is the nearest to the version III dial (or at least the one more similar to it, also if PT describe it as Dial 4) This one: http://www.puretime.watch/product/vintage-double-red-sea-dweller-1665-dial-4/ Now the question: wearing my clothes... Which one would you choose, and why? Thanks, GenTLe

Hi, I got a couple of noce St. DuPont from this store: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/1241800 Example:

Latest strap (real croc from Vietnam eBay seller http://stores.ebay.it/vnhandcraftart/ ) setup for my recraft Seiko:

Thanks Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Some time ago I got a WONDERFUL Chopard by RWG.bz mate Corsa, and it came with the rep gen-like rubber strap. This one (pics of gen one) Well, that rubber strap is indeed horrible in my view and makes the otherwise wonderful watch head to lose a lot of appeal. So I asked the other forum for suggestions and ended up asking Andrea (MartuStraps) to create something for me based on the look of Chavezzito's (another RWG.bz guy) strap, originally made by McJules, but in ostrich instead of crocodile. She did it (for a fair price of around 50$ shipped) and... Well this is the (stunning in my view) result: This surely became a keeper now Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Got a gen yesterday Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Who said Sinn are colorless? Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Watchfinder (TD on RWG) does them. I think he is the only one Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

MEGA necropost resurrection! Hey Rolexman, I dealt today with this 2813 bastard too The secret here is just to take away the balance! Once done and aligned best you can all the wheels, then you put the bridge on top, aligning it with the reference points and, while with a pair of tweezers you keep it in place very gently, with another pair of tweezers you can reach the click (otherwise covered by balance bridge) and moving it make the reverse wheel to go in position and therefore also the main bridge Then you can put back the balance and it's magically done!

Sincerely I don't know... Only thoughts are: 1 maybe the noob white paint is so thick that is more resistant 2 maybe the mod nas been done without cleaning properly the underneat surface 3 maybe the thinner wasn't compatible with the color used 4 maybe the white noob paint is not compatible with upper layers 5 ... I cannot say, you have to test but not having the original Mirov paint to use as substrate it is just useless. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Bake? You mean heat it in a oven or so? Not really... Even the car water based paints use the "oven" just to protect the parts from the dust or to speed up the drying time, not because needed by the paint itself. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk