plaifender

read read read read read read! All of these questions have been answered before in GREAT detail on the forum. I'd buy before a trusted member before buying a new watch from the dealers almost 85% of the time. If you know the watch has been cared for, it doesn't matter if it's 2 or 3 years old. Lots of reps should last a lifetime with proper servicing

haha.. I'm plaifender and I approve this message

not a silly question. Considering the entire watch face is made with all genuine parts, no one should be able to tell anything at all. He's got a genuine bezel, dial, hands, crown and tube, and endlinks. I'd say his watch is 98% accurate visually(if he had a gen bracelet it would be 99%) and 95% indistinguishable overall, since the movement is an ETA 2824 and not an omega caliber.

It would still be a franken, just a GEN franken!

looks great it except for that CG not being flush

Yes it's confusing. The V5 that the cartel(josh and andrew) and BK sell is actually not a v5, but a V3 with brighter steel and correct bezel. Nothing else is different. They call it a v5 ultimate as a marketing gimmick. since it came out in early 2009 after the V4. The watch in question has been around for quite some time, unlike Trevors 2010 V5 which came out back in March this year. V5 give away is it's flat bezel pearl and thinner lume dot rings. again, i'm not an expert, but that's what I've gathered from members like Jkay and Gioarmani over the course of this watch's evolution.

looks beautiful

Looks like a typical V3 ultimate with Corrected Bezel. Very nice. No flaws I can see.

I also meant to add that I'd send my clasp with another pin already in it. You could try swapping the diver extension from my clasp for the diver extension on your clasp..

blahh... common problem on the DSSD. that part is horrible. I have an completely functional extra clasp but the rolex emblem came unglued and fell off. I can send it to you for free if you'd like to tinker with it and try to swap pieces from your clasp and the functional clasp. Yours for free if you'd like As a side note... there are two or three different clasps made for the dssd. So not all the parts are always the exact same length, width etc.. depending on which clasp you have on the bracelet email me for pics of it if you're interested. PM me with your email address and i'll send you pics.

hahahaha +10

well. .i bought mine second hand from a senior member (very senior!)here... It was actually advertised as having a swiss 2824. He might have been mistaken though when he sold me the watch. Haven't opened up the caseback to confirm, but maybe i indeed have a 2836!

READ READ READ READ READ READ

Plant

Welcome to the best forum on the planet.. period!

Di dove sei in Italia?????? Welcome aboard!

$350?? that's ridiculous. Are they not offering this watch with ETA-2824 anymore? Go for the 2824 version if available. lots of the 2836 end up being Asian clones anyways. You shouldn't be paying over $250 for a milgauss.

point taken. i've also got gen crown, stem, tube, crystal and datewheel. wasn't sure about the caseback, thanks for confirming. Bezel assemby is not the same on the UPO as the gen. From what I've understood A bezel can be modified to fit the UPO but is not a direct swap. Furthermore, to modify a genuine bezel, it must be glued or fixed to the case (preventing bezel rotation). Also, bezel insert is not a clean swap either.

Not sure that the genuine case back fits the rep. Remember that the UPO is not a 1:1 rep. despite popular belief

Firstly, take the suggestions from all that have replied on this thread. Secondly, here's some more concrete opinions in regards to your question: The most accurate replica I own is the Breitling SuperOcean Steelfish. I would argue that it's the most accurate rep to date, but unfortunately is getting harder and harder and harder to come by these days. I also have a Breitling Skyland Blacksteel that's very accurate. The Chopard GTXLs are also VERY accurate. Some newer reps that come to mind are the Hbbs and APs as well as many Omega Speedmasters and the Infamous Planet ocean. My ROLEX DSSD is very accurate. I wear it much more than my Superocean, but it's a lot less accurate in my opinion. Your first mission is to read read read and read. Once you absorb some info, you'll be able to get a grasp on what you like and what appeals to you, then you'll be able to decide what flaws you're willing to live with when it comes to purchasing a rep. Good luck! -Fender

How can you tell anything about subdial depth from stock photos.. You and I both know, we never get good shots of any watch until we get a QC pictorial or one of us bites the bullet and takes detailed pics of the dial!!!!

hola pete1... estas en fororelojero????? Que tal? Saludos desde los madriles

Looks great. I'd just make sure to get a shot of the "top gun" engraving on the left side of the case. I see a speck of dust or something above the 1'oclock marker, but can't tell if it's on the glass or the dial. In either case, not a big deal. Dust is easily removed I'm not IWC expert but it generally looks good enough for me!

Congrats! Wear it well MacJuli!

This has got to be my favorite interview of the year! I couldn't help but crack up at his comments. You've gotta give it to him for speaking his mind.. not every CEO can come across as such a world class a-hole, elitist so plainly. Had my go at a Hublot Stainless Steel and a Rose Gold Tuiga and they didn't do it for me. Interesting? yes. Innovative? maybe. Worth it? no.