Rolexman

My wife owned the Colt for a while. Great little watch and pretty accurate for a cheapo Quartz. Be carefull with the pearl as it is chrome plated. Even the slightest Cape Cod makes that sucker gold coloured, don't ask me how I know

Nothing wrong with Peter.acc He is a great strapmaker and friendly guy. There are more dealers than just 'Bespoke'.

Peter.acc

I would say gen. Breitling is known to have a lot of small iterations of the same model...

Then you are doing it wrong. With the right tools you are only half way

This is the only correct way.

This movement is now updated with bigger jewels in the gear train bridge and a square regulator arm. Looks and functions 99% like the real deal.

It's a cheap 111 rep so yes, there will be differences with the genuine. You can't solve the rehaut. It's just the way the case is milled. Try looking for a better one like the Noob 111 and sell the one you have.

From what I can tell this is a V3 version of the P3000 clone. The 1st version had the small jewels in the gear train bridge [the one I reviewed] The 2nd version had a stick on plate with bigger jewels on the gear train bridge This version seems to have full functional bigger jewels in the grear train bridge... Movement wise this watch is almost indistinguishable from the genuine. An absolutely must have for every Pam lover.

It's as old as Noah's arch mate... Like all the clones. Stable if serviced.

Should be ok if you keep it away from water/dust and shocks. Bummer.

Just hit it with the point of a .8 mil flat hat screw driver on the edge. Practices making burrs (pigs ear) on an old movement plate. The burr needs to be only marginal to be effective. Hard to explain in theory. Just something you need to practice.

Give the post a small burr on top after the IDW is installed correctly. This will prevent it from creeping up. Mark.

This is probably not the right place for you buddy For us $300 reps are cheap now a days.

Why is this fake? Looks gen to me.

Great job putting her back together and taking the time to do a write up BUT!.... I strongly advice that no one uses the pictorial as a reference for oiling as LITERALLY all oil/grease is applied in the wrong place in the pictures I have seen. I don't have the time for making detailed comments but I suggest you keep on practicing and reading. Especially the oiling part: the location and amounts are crucial for a stable and reliable movement. Keep it up!

Strange. Never encounterd that.

Last one. Only oil the clutch levers inside the wheels. You need a microscope to do it properly.

Difficult to say. My money is on the balance brake lever

Maybe the entire movement and dial shifted a bit. Check the movement holder tabs. Just some extra tenth of mils to the left or right could make a huge difference.

The problem lies not with the keyless works so oil is not the solution. The crown stem is too short.

Aaaaa thats normal with reps. You are doing it right

The 64xx series has the most stable keyless work of them all. Just don't unscrew the release more than 1,5 turn and make sure the crown is in winding when you remove it. You don't need to slam anything. Just some finesse and a wiggle to slide it through the castle wheel.

I left the crown as is because I could not determine if it was solid stainless steel or some sort of other aloy with a chrome wrapping. In that case grinding it with a bevel would cause a discolouration. Will shoot some pics when I get to it. It looks sweet

You are missing the point. But good luck