Well the question is based on my understanding that ceramic doesn't scratch (or at least very difficultly). So in basics it relates to the fact if the insert can or can't be scratched.
How do we know that?
By the way thanks for all the input guys. I think Roger makes a good point: real ceramic in reps, why not? But I'm sceptic like Jnkay. If it's real ceramic... proof it!
Wouldn't a stamp make the perfect 'H'? ..... just make a monogram JPEG and order it on-line. Ordering and designing should not no problem. If you're scared they will know it's a 'Hublot' logo just order it in combination with a fictional company name starting with 'H'. E.g. 'Howdy financial services'. There are so many logo's in the world which have some resemblance. But I'm convinced not a soul would ever connect the dots between the 'H' logo and....
With a stamp and the right paint, you're all set
But none te less Superbe job Francisco! Thanks for the time and effort put into this tutorial. You've got yourself an almost 1:1 rep
Smartass is not swearword. [censored] is! You better watch your tone before commenting on my signature. Because it clearly displays the amount of time and effort I stick into this community, which can't be said about you! So please be wise and reframe your comments before I report your ass!
Thanks for your input guys. So we can conclude it is NOT real ceramic. Anyone who claims otherwise has to prove it by doing the nail test like Freddy said or my favorite... the knife test!
I did a lot of searching and I didn't find a clear answer wether or not the ceramic on the GMT IIc is real or not. I know there are two versions the sandwich and the full ceramic but has anyone ever tested the ceramic... if the sandwich version is made out of real ceramic why make a full ceramic? Both can't be scratched right..
Did anybody ever tested their ceramic like trying to scratch it with a knife or so? I've read in several posts that Freddy thinks (or claims) it's plastic but I would also like some other members to chime in.
So please tell me which GMT you have and how you know it's real ceramic or not.
Thanks guys!
PS: Which one was more reliable, the CHS or the ICH?
I hope Chris is not ending up the same way as TWP... his business outgrowing him. I heard simular stories of QCs not being performed well or not at all. I was one of the first who ordered from Chris and I could verify all what was claimed (some of you may remember my Aquaracer review regarding his QC) but I'm seriously questioning his service lately.
SUPERB review. I like the whole group approach. I would have bought this rep in a heart beat but as I am really anal about scratches and I'm always polishing my reps I didn't. This baby is non-polishable or brushable....
Am I the only one who isn't cheering? Sure I was a vet poster at RWG1 but IMO all the different forums contribute to the 'forest'. All the info should be concentrated in one forum. Sure there's a risc of loosing it all but now there are like 4, 5, 6 hell I don't know how many rep forums. Some more usefull than others. After RWG1 died RWG2 took it's place as THE rep forum.
The hand stack looks okay. The reason for the date change at 7 as opposed to 12 is that the hour hand might have slipped on the post. This could have happend for a numerous of reasons (bump, bad hand tube, not enough friction etc.). This would also explain the watch running behind 4 hours all of a sudden ... The only solution is to uncase the movement, remove the hands and correctly reinstall them.
The problem you're encountering is caused by the chrono pushers. They probably catch in to the movement holder ring or into the holes of the movement holder ring (where those tiny pusher extentions are located). Try to remove the movement holder ring first. Then remove the movement. This will work.
Remove the two screws which connect the movement and the ring. Remove the ring. Remove the movement + dial.
Click (twice) to enhance.