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vlaletom

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Everything posted by vlaletom

  1. who would ever buy a 6263 of ioffer, in the first place http://www.ioffer.com/bi/jordan2102--Rolex-Daytona-6263-V72-Valjoux--100972049
  2. @t Check this link : http://cgi.ebay.com/CORTEBERT-cal-618-POCKET-WATCH-MOVEMENT_W0QQitemZ160360648248QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPocket_Watches?hash=item25563d4e38 Not too shure about authenticity, but i think cortebert had a ref 618 in it's line, rolex was buying the ebauche & customizing. unfortunatly my link to cortebert references page is dead (i should have saved the whole page not just the bookmark) This one has the correct shape but is not jeweled on the center weel, so it is only 15 jewel, hasn't even a plated finish, so i guess it has to be like the ebauche RLX used. Or it's just a plain fake, dunno...
  3. for the ROC (rolex oyster cosmo) 6265/3, the correct bezel is 200. The 300 is only correct for the first generation of 6239/41 I am not aware of any o ring nor gasket for tis kind of bezel, just a very tigh fit to the tropic 21.
  4. @t The movement i baught where "supposed" to have been just serviced. That was one of the point that helped me pull the trigger, now it can be B.S. i will soon kow... I dont plan to wear those watch everyday neither, as i am starting to have many watch i love, so that will help reduce the wear. But your right that if they dont work well i should have them serviced. Maybe i can do it myself, as i am used to service ETA, (i got everything including an elmasonic Ultrasonic cleaner, and most moebus oil). But if part needs to be made that an other story, way above my head. I'll keep you posted, when i will recive them.
  5. @archibald Good to know that i wasnt silly to pull the triger at that price. Even if now i am prepared to complication and have to learn a lot more to be able to complete a nice project. I plan to do an "homage" rather than an exact "copy". I know real where powered by 618 but last time i have seen one it went for 2k$ and that was 2 year ago !!! but i have not been searching actively... My watch wont have to pretend being an historical piece, at least not for my first attempt, so i would rather go for an open caseback, to tell it apart from basic reps. Maybe a "Rolex" engraving on the bridge would still be a nice addition, but not mandatory. I have seen lot of vintage project on RG where the bridge where engraved, but with a 616 marking, so i guess there is a connection for such a work (maybe only VDB?)
  6. Fantastic project. I must admit that this is the kind a masterpiece, that inspirate me to jump in, and try to do a project myself. Unfortunatly i am at the bottom of the learning curve, when it comes to PAM, but seeing your work is a thrue motivation. I hope to do an angelus project, one day, if can find one at decent price. For now i'll start with cortebert. @paneristi If i got it right, this is the alarm version, wich is allredy hard and costy to get, but the non alarm is even more desirable, as it is the one they used for genuine PAM, but those seams almost impossible to find. I have never seen one or sell (of course i may not know how to search properlly for those) Fantastic work merlin
  7. bob bean, thanks for the link. Those case are actually quite cheap, if they are good, that really intersting. Folowing hooky advice, i have been reading a lot on RG vintage section. Seams that most project are based on DSN case. I am still uncetrtan on what vintage ref number i whant to do ... Probaly a 6152, and a radiomir with blue hand & california dial .. Would somone have a link to a page with picture & number reference for vintage panies ?? Also if i did my reading corectly it is possible to use 6497 dials for a 616 project ? I have seen there is an ongoing project here at RWG for making cortebert hands, so i will folow this project with attention. Exuse all those noob questions, but even if i have now a good experience with rolex franken, i am a total newbe when it comes to PAM Thanks for helping
  8. Heya I need a little help from the panerai expert. I have until now mainly focused on rolex franken. But i was willing to change a little for nrw project. And vintage PAM had allway been somting i was planning to do. So today i jumped in !! just baugth 2 cortebert 616 on the bay here are link to the auction: first second My first question is, do you guy think it was a good deal ? And now what should be my next step ? i whant to do a nice Radiomir and a luminor. What are my best option to find case, hand and dial ? i would like the luminor to look like a beaten up 1950 And for the radiomir am thinking of a california dial I guess those subject have been covered up many time, but i am too exited and cant wait for some advice any help apreciated...
  9. if money wasnt a matter it would be some master piece of course. Like a PP/VC/JLC/RM Like a gyro tourbillon, a minute repeater, Perpetual calender with ratrapente chrono... But hum, that is never going to happen unlees i win the lotery. But as you can allway dream my first purchase would probably go for some expetional piece, with very unusal way to display the time, but fully mechanical. Like tsome Degrisono MECCANICO DG for example In the more realistic field, any JLC would do, and hopefully i have one. and the vintage RLX of course, but i can franknen them
  10. i love chronograph. Dont know exactly why, as i hardly ever use them exept to cook pasta or rice ... But obviously it add more complexity to the dial. And the movement are so much beautifull, specially the hand wind, as the automatic rotor hide most of the compelxity of the movment. A column wheel hand wind movement, that's really outstanding, i can stare at those little things like if it was a true gem. I own a JLC and 2 vintage franken daytona with V72, and really it is my most loved piece. I now can disasemble & reassemble a basic automatic watch, like any eta, very easylly, but a chrono that an other story, those little thing deaserve much more respect, and are still very challenging to me. Of course i have yet to get more complex movement (repetition, perpetual caledar or such) but so far it is what really amaze me the more.
  11. Yeha TTK had the secret to throw gazoline on an allready burning fire ... He was puting serious action, but was an awfull collector (at least fro my experience) and his buisness practice were hard to condone on a forum like this ... Maybe, but i somtime miss bricktop on the old rwg, that was funny too. More seriously, i dont think it's a big drama to have a little less activity. For me that's the quality of post that mostly matter. And RWG is still THE place to get valuable info. I have allways been a low poster, maybe because of the language barier, but time to time when i am more in a mood for watch forum, i do here. While i never bothered to participate on other.. Anyway i know that if i need help on olmost any technical matter, i will find suport here. Also even if the new forum system has caused a few disagrement, i stil found rwg layout far superior too rwi or rg. Honestly i think i never used those forum because i found them graphically howfull. So here is my "home" and i dont think it will ever change ...
  12. Most rolex owner i know just have theire watch serviced when somthing brake in them. most often stem coming out when setting time Wich usually means first service around 25 year after purshase. So yes the watch will usually last 25-35 year without "apparent" trouble. But after that, the part will be very worn out, and the total lifespan of the movement will have seriously decreased. So not only this 1 st service at rolex will be very costy, as lots of part will be changed, but the watch may not last for more than 100 years as it could have. (no goodies for your grand son) Maybe a service every 5 year is a bit too precious. (expect different opinion on that) But once every 10 year is certainly a good thing to do, especially on a sub that hold great value
  13. If the case can fit a crystal with gen spec your safe. You can use ubi's or find an aftermarket one: clarck, wholesaleoutlet990, cousins ... if the case cristal was not 1:1 then it's going to be more painfull you will have to get a micro milimetter (pied a coulisse). And you may find somthing that match it exactly from www.cousinsuk.com they have almost any crystal size, and it's very convinient to order from them from EU. Your best bet is probably in the XS series from Sternkreuz * Home * Watch Parts * Watch Glasses * Acrylic Watch Glasses * Acrylic Round Domed Watch Glasses * XS Series, Round Special Form Sternkreuz Top Glass Ref : http://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/307_Sternkreuz%20XS%20Series%20Glasses.pdf
  14. Ho yeah, i am totally on your side with the AD. Cold Snobish pretentious moron. Who tend to judge people by the money they estimate that they can spend in their shop, judging that by the way they look.
  15. also think of the craftmanshipp cost of a swiss watchmith compare to the average salary in china. Swiss industry also regualy upgrade there machinery to the "state of the art" A friend of mine who had the chance to visit JLC manufacture after an advertizing contract was explained how they had to order specific tooling that costed billion of dollar, just to be able to produce the gyro tourbillon.
  16. are you shure lani ? Maybe now, but that olmost would be a political position, and would go against there interest, as "a sell is a sell" and money dont have smell. Also remenber rolex was offering free watch to any war prisoner during WW2, so rolex which is a familial company (unlike many other), certainly wasnt like that back in the days.
  17. @ubi yes seing a lot of people with sub, mays atract other to get that sub wich is a social status symbol. As long as there seen as gen. but on the other hand, it is true that many people avoid to buy a rolex as it is seen "too common" and closyly associated with "fakes"
  18. I totally agree with you Pug. Also i would add, that those board kinda spread the delusion that rep are "olmost as good as gen" or even "as good". Wich imho is waaay off. dont get me wrong i love reps, or i wouldnt be here. they are fun and accessible. and indeed they are quite good, they could compare to low brand like tisso or festina, but not to there gen conterpart. And as pug say, i don't find rolex price much overpriced neither. So not only rep board dilute the brand image, but it kinda devaluate the producte perception to many menbers who themself will vehiculate that opinion to other people. And to come back to the begining of the topic: of course we are watched, i dont see how compagnies like swatch group, Richemont, LVMH, Rolex etc. that all have an anual budget for "right management" and "war angains contrefit goods", could miss such large and accessible forum. They most probably dont care about menbers, but it is certainly a very valuable source of information.
  19. if your friend isn't that much of a WIS you could still go with the pre 2000 rolex daytona zenith powered. Those rep are sec at 9, and you should expect longer lif time probability, for those graphite treatment are not mandatory. But the subdial spacing are wrong, wich would only be noticed buy somone who actually have good knowledge of daytona. But i actualy wonder if el primero reps are still available nowadays ?
  20. hey kent Actually the canion pinion is one of the part i can get, but i would trade that pinion for shure if it could be usefull to you. hoever i think you need the short no calendar cannon pinion for rolex 1530 7889 2.23mm, if judge by your post in the "tools & part". The pinion i will have when i recive the 1575 will be for a "date" one. Also when you say "i went the other way", do you mean you had a gmt 1575 ? and need a no date, no gmt, plain 1530/70 then you would have all the part i need, or we could just trade the movement + some $
  21. thanks for the precision freddy for sourcing the part. if i am correct on my suposition i can get brand new 1570.8037 & 1570.8040 for low dollar for the remaining ... i am not in a hurry, but i hope that part for the 1570 would be more wilddly available than for a 1030 but for now, i can't even confirm what is actually needed for such a project
  22. Heya Once again i need some help from the experts. I am in the mood for finalizing an old project ... Wich need a 1575 GMT. Price are definitively too high on the bay (+ 2k$) While a plain 1575 can be found under 700
  23. i love this watch, and JLC in general and yes it's based on the running at 6 JLC chrono movement Actually for serious diver they even have one with deep indicator (fully mechanical) But since i haven't seen any hih end rep of any watch in the master compressor line, i guess we are not ready to see this out. At least they could produce a simple master compressor (no alarm, no chrono , no gmt ...), with 316L and working rotative crown & pusher lock ? Dunno why JLC doesn't interess rep factory, while they put out 25 generation of ultra high end reps of bling bling watch as lets say HBB ... i ended up buying a gen JLC MC chrono ....
  24. very nice picture freddy, specially the first one with the black background So the first axes is of course a rickenbacker. But what is the second ? I could be a gibson 335 in red ? but then it's not the more common "dot" model ... i didn't rconised hewlio's neither, i wonder what it is, that is fitted with that bigsby between what style of music do you guys play ?
  25. Well writing in the asked form is too much a hassle if i had to revew all the watch i have had So i'll rather go with the usual [censored] But i can be more specific : - Watch with asian movement & added complication, stats : 100% rip ex 2* rolex 1655, cause of death : gmt module (1st less then a week, second maybe a few month) Pam 196 with old style 7750, cause of death : "no trip to The Zigmeister for service", time lasted 2 year. JLC with real alarm, cause of death "unknown". - Watch with Swiss ETA, stats 0% trouble with movement. MBW 1665, MBW 1655 (yes with gmt mod and still doing great), TW best SD, Omega SMP pro... - Trouble with Case, stats : around 25% Mostly Minor trouble like case clamp falling off after a while. PAM 196 old case : 2 screw for crown gard too lose, conducting in the crown guard falling off after doing Motorbyke, (at home fortunatly) Smp Pro : losing it's cristal after a good day of freeride at "chamonix les grand montet" A rep sub : losing several lume dot after a good day of freeride in "la grave" also a broken crown tube on an omega blue smp pro. In the other hand some reps are just rock solid, like my TW best SD that i now use every time i am going snowbording, and that i used to dive up to 25 meter in Koh Tao this summer. so my overall conclusion is: Asian movement are reliable unless they are modded to make stuff they where not designed to. ETA are 100% reliable. Casing of reps are not equaly robust, most do fine as long as you don't intent "big action" with them, but only a few resit hard core shock and vibration over a long time.
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