vlaletom

Oky so i have recived the cousin pusher. and i found them to be the perfect solution, they have a better look than DW's (more rounded and with less teeth), and a better construction. time to share my experience with those. first they are very well made and comes with a fixation ring As you can see and unlike DW they are easyly unscrewed, with a clear insert for the screw driver Once unscrewed u can see that there is 2 gasket in the tube, so that is a very good point for water resistance. As expected the thread size doesn' match DW case. But this can be arranged using a rolex taping tool, this time you will need the small size taping tool, not the one for the 7mm crown 3mm hole. But rather the 2.5 mm one that is used for 24-600 24-500 tube found on smaller crown. As seen in the pics the thread for the small tube are way smaller then in a 3mm one. Once retaped you can screw the pusher by hands almost half the way without to much resistance. And since those pusher can be disasembled, you can then force the pusher in with a plier, while the pusher are disasembled, without risking to let mark on any visible part of the pusher It will screw in all the way without to much force and then be very well secured to the case. For more security and water resistance you can even use cousin special thread glue Once the base o the pusher is firmly attached to the case you can then reassemble the pusher from the inside. and this wont let any visible trace of abuse Finnaly you have to shorter the pusher pin length as the are too long for the V72/23 This can only be done once re-assembled and will make disapear the screwdriver insert, so you wont be able to re-do the whole process. For this i used a precision dremel, but yo can use any other solution And the final result is a perfect fit I hope this will help other members facing david shortage of pusher ...

in paris the main street for watch equipement is rue R

You have to take into account that even for the same dealer the production may vary. for example the MBK 1665 i have DID NOT swap the tube without drilling, tapping and countersink while other are just an easy swap. The tube hole was way to small to fit a 24-7030

Olso If you go to BBK be prepared to go back next day. At the shop they only have a few reps, the show off replica openly but without signed dial, if you talk to the owner he will then show you the same but with signed dial. but he hasn't every thing ready, he will show you some picture for you to chose and your watch will be ready next day Last time he had the whole unmodded MBW range Patek Nautilus and Aquanaut MB RO and Ofshore (running at 9) Modern Rolex Sub Vintage various Sub/1665/1655/GMT1/Milgauss and a not so good 6263/5 I didnt manage to bargain :/

Once agian thanks for the help. I finnally ordered pusher from cousin.uk as i usually prefer to do buisness with them than ofrei. They do list there aftermarket pusher as ref 24.302.0 and are probably 1:1 with curent rolex's one. I let you know how it goes with them ....

Ofrei is currently advertizing is screw down pusher with a thread of 2.50 mm so it should be possible to tap the case and have them fit. i wouldn't mind pay 2*200$ for gen if i was shure that rolex put's 24.p302.0 when serviced, but if it is still inacurate it doesn't worth the extra compare to ofrei $40

thanks you both for the answare. Ofrei curent pusher is said to be 2.5 so that should do it. I was wondering if they were visually acurate ? Olso gen current pusher are easy to find, of course it's expensive (around 180$) i wonder if it worth the extra money ? are pusher swapped during service like the crown & tube ?

Hi evryone .. I need some advice from the vintage Daytona expert. I know some of you like Avitt or fredy333 have a lot of experiance in those. DW is currently out of Pusher for his case kit. so for my new 6265 project i need to find some after market pushers. What is the best option ? are offei's any good ? i think there supose to replace curent daytona pusher (24.p302.0) and not the 24.p301.0 found on a 6265. pusher i have from DW in my 6263 aren't that good anyway they looks more like a mixt between the early prototype of screw down pusher that had very thin grip (like model N

usually i dont report pepole on the bay, but passing a fake as a gen really sucks, and since this guy [censored]ed me over for like 50 euros, i am really tempted ....

Hi I was curious about what you guys thinks of this ebay auction : Pam 196 The price is very under the market, the date windows appears to me like an 7750 and not a 7753 base (date disck too low). PLUS the seller is the only ebayer i ever had a bad deal with, payed by bank transfert for a few watch tools and never recived anything ...hopfully not much money, but the guy had the nerve to put me my only bad evaluation So the PAM gurus can you tell me, am i right and do you supect anything ? or does it appears legit i havent my own p196-7750 with me at the moment, so cant compare in detail.

thanks guys for all the info since this post i have been diging the forum and found the very interestings post by freddy333 about how to mod the valve. I'll probably try to find a second-hand non mbw case with HE, that would come from a cheaer asian rep, and try to fit it into my MBW

Is this version with working HE really a MBW ? or some other source .. I was on the impresion there was only solid HE, at least for the MBK sourced, if custom job by the "maria team" now it might be an other story ... can you tell us a bit more about the origin/availability of those case, if not mater of national security of course ... I am considering finding a better case for my 1665, but for now i thought my only option where NDTrading or jewelryandwatch.com both are really overpriced, specially considring they also have flaw (like case back)

Sorry i had not much time to log in latly so i could not thanks you guys for all the valuable information you provided. For what i see in nanuq picture, the new T39 is very different from the old one. So for me it exlude the new one at the gen price. i'll probably be better with a Clark. I'll get a clark i think, i already got a NDTtrading DR dial, so now i only have to source a 24-702/701 crown & tube and i am set I'll post pics when done ...

I would like some advice by the expert. I am looking for a crystal for my MBW 1665. If i can find a old gen superdome in my budget i will off course go for it. But for now i have found 2 options: The clark T39 or a genuine Rolex T39, but it is the newer version of the superdome, wich is said to be sligthly 'flatter'. i am refering to this one : T39 new superdome What do think, does it worth getting a gen like this? Anybody had the chance to compare the orginal superdome wth the new one? does it look realy flatter ? i off course whants to keep the vintage domed look. Any advice apreciated.

There is no way this can be genuine. Even if you hadn't seen the pics (wich show an non chrono mvmnt) Rolex introduced the new daytona line (with 4130) in 2000, there is no way a movement can hit the after market yet. All produced movement gotta still be in there case, and defecting ones gets fixed, not thrown away .. i advise you against any add with probably purposely blured pictures whan it comes to movement or rolex valuable parts...

thanks guys for the answares ... I have actually found 2 interesting link dinging the web on the rolex band reference that i should share : a chart : http://www.14270.com/spec-rolex.htm and the most interesting : http://orologi-rolex.shop.it/ it has a very precise reference for most rolex watch with precise documentation on what band/endlink/movement etc where used ... it's in italian, but the number/photo can be read in any language that were i learned that for example for the 6263/6265 was corect : 7205/8, endlink 71 (riveted in glod only) 7835, endlink 271 (floded) 7835, endlink 371 (floded) 78350, endlink 571 (solid) so the riveted version is inacurate for a SS 6263/6265 (but would be for 6238/6239/6240/6241)

I would like to change the band on my DW 6263 V72. I think it's the worst part of the watch for now, or at least i focus on that one .... I own a gen rolex date just 1500 who was fited with a 78350 19mm solid band, so i can tell for shure that DW's 78350 is not that good. Actually you can't even use DW links to extend the gen bracelet because they can not fit. I am not even speaking of the endlink, they took me like one day to drill and get in place ... So i am thinking to upgrade for a gen. I know that a combination of 78350 band and 571 endlink would be correct. But i have a hard time finding some (or they go for way to much $$$). So my question is what other band / endlink where used on the 6263 I think floded link where olso sold with that watch, but dunno wich exact ref i think that would be 7835 ? And did some riveted link where olso used ? I think rivted links would be a perfect combo with the watch if it was used during production days . Finally, did all the band used same 571 endlinks ? Thanks for the advices ... Tom

I am very interested in those movement in the brochure : CH1901M , CH1902M, CH1903M all are 49.95

i have been trying to contact him at his usual hotmail account without succes because i needed some hands i then checked the email from his last ebay account a gmail one and had contact with him. he sended me some new dial pics ... but his price has gone much much more expensive for everything then last year. Since as some may remenber i allready had a very bad 'fake DW' transaction i didn't order anything yet. Anybody knows wat's up with his email info is the gmail one ok ?

Whoaw, that stunning, i love this aging works, great patina. It looks like if it had serviced in WWII as usual great job The Zigmeister.

@The Zigmeister thanks "master" @bosk yes the HE valve was allready corectly positioned in the rep, just had to enlarge and tap it from the orginal hole postion. @Marrickvilleboy your SMP is a must in franken, with gen movement! i olso got myself an omega box set, but the movement that an other storry, did you got a fair deal for it ?

if youwish to put a gen valve you can have a look to this thread where i discribe the process i used to put one in an SMP Pro ...

Hey. On of my first reps was an Omega SMP pro black with a 2824-2 . Got it from king just after i discovered RWGI. I have been wearing it a lot, without any care, as real beatter ... It was olso the first watch i tryed to lume. But i have benn rather unlucky with it While snowboarding in chamonix, i discovered at the bottom of "the grand montet" that the crystal had poped off the case. Hopfully the crystal was still in my jacket hands, but i never found the plastic ring. I then did a dirty fix with super glue, but the crystall was periodically falling off. Then i lost the lume dot in the pearl. And to finish the crown tube just broke, the rep one was made in cheap bronze. So the watch just sat in my drawer for olmost a year. Until i found a swiss watchmaker offering an original tube crown and escape valve plus a set of hand (for the blue version) on ebay, got the bid for around 40$ and was rather happy. Just had to order some gens black hands from ofrei and i was ready to give life to that thing again. So here are the pics of the whole process. (pics links to higher res ones) first the watch while it wasn't boken luming the dial removing the bacelet is not so painfull but puting it back is really a [censored]. For the second work session i just opened it with my bracelt pin remover, but did not go into figthing with those endlink. a little demagetization can't do bad ... dial with original rep lume ... dial ready to be lumed The dial lumed .. It was my first lume job, and the result is not so good, the border of the marker aren't as good as i whanted. U can notice the little error on the 7 marker where i've gone too far. hopfully i was able to repaint the black part. Hopfully the glow was as i expected, as you can see in this picture where the environement is still well lighted. Now in the real dark ... Second session : Fixing the whole mess Here you can see the broken tube wich would not allow to screw the crown anymore, i first had to remove it, wich i did with a standard plier. I then used my elaborated technique of "tearing the damn thing apart with a plier" on the rep escape valve. Here you can see the genuine part that i used. Now i was left with a hole that of course did not match the gen tube size. It was rather too big in fact. This is the gen crown and tube, as you can see the crown screw from the inside in the tube. And the tube itself is not screwed to the the case. So i had to attach this to the case. I used some special epoxy ciment, made specially for steel part, and it worked vey well. I then moved on the the valve. Here are all the parts used in a gen valve. I can tell you that at first, i was a little embarassed on how to assemble that puzle. And couldn't find an assembly plan on the net. It finaly ended up like this. i supose it's how it is suposed to be done, but i am not 100% shure.. But after all i am not a professional diver, and it's not like i am ever going to really use the escape valve anyway .. Of course the rep case hole wasn't the corect size This time it was too small, so that were my precision dremel got a little action. I dont know about the steel used in all replica, but i can tell you this one got drilled like butter, low spped, cutting oil, and it was done. The escape valve unlike the crown tube is screwed to the case, so i just had to tap the new hole to the size of the escape valve screw. Here you can see the valve tube screwed to the case. And the process of screwing the valve crown from the inside. After that i fixed one for all the crystal with the epoxy steel ciment. Made a new lume dot on the bezel ... Attached the genuine hand to the movement, it's really niceer now with corectly sized hands... And here are some pics of the final result Globaly i am happy with the overall felling of the watch. But i think it would be better with gen dial, specially as i am not 100% happy with my lume job, the markers are not as well finished as they could have been. And the case would really need a polishing, after all that beating. The crystal being domed is olso really lacking the AR. But the watch i now often back on my wrist and looks gently aged and used like somthing that has "seen a lot" wich make it looks much less like a rep.

Very nice watch indeed. With that "70 's" look, wich happend to be appeling and up to fashion again. It makes me think of such watch as the omega Mark II/III or flightmaster. Really looks stuning, great job

hhaaa, too bad realy . If it takes more skill to relume with this, i pass then, i have enought trouble doing good job with Superluminova allready.