vlaletom

alligoat: Yes i have hardly took it of my wrist since it's finished .... polexpete ; Yes i just used 1 case clamp. There is 2 place on the V72 to put case clamp, But the balance one is the only easily accessible, the other one near the column wheel can only be used if you first disasemble the srping for the reset pusher arm. But as DW case are a very thight fit to the movement i think 1 case clamp is enough. The 726 in the original roamer stingray case, had no case clamp at all, du to the fact that the movement is assembled from the front in that case as it has no opening caseback (and a strange 2 pieces stem) So if roaemer can live without case clamp at all, i think you are safe with just 1.

Whaw this is going to be some incredible super franken. Converting from a base 1030 to a GMT is certanly very chalenging, and as you say a matter of patience, but what an achivement when it'will be finally done ! And as your "waiting" watch is allready a stuner, you can easily wait and see.

Yes freddy that is certainly the best thing to use but as i have never used or even seen one, i was not too shure it would works with any kind of pusher, so the extra pusher solution came to my mind. and i was olso intersted in the few spare parts it would provide (actually the screw as it can be usefull if somthing gors wrong in grinding ...)

Thanks avitt Yes i aged the marker, but very lightly, with an artist pencil and i dunno why they look more yellow than in real life in the pictures .. prolly due to the lightning in the light box. For the 6265 i used acrylic paint, and i find them to yellow, i must have exagerted a bit, and on the picures with same lightning it looks even worst... i will prolly re-work the 6265 aging But for that watch i like the ageing in real ligth, it's very similar to my gen 1500 from 1968

Merci jojo Yes Flex i did use silicone on the tropic, wich i hadn't before .. that why with the new pusher the watch is now trully waterproof. The tube & crown are allready gen. I olso tried to assemble a gen 24-700 crown, but the tube i recived from phong (payed $$$) never worked with the crown.. so now i don't know wich part is wrong the 24-700 crown or the phong tube. So i just used some gen 24-703/24-7030 as if had been serviced ...

I havent showed you yet my DW's I'll start with my newly reassembled 6263. I'd like to specially thanks fredy33 and avitt for the inspiration and there help (wether direct or in forum search) I reworked the 6263 in the last two month It was originaly fitted with a longine 330 (V72), but i had a prety good deal on a 726 and decided to use the plain V72 in an new project (6265) and upgrade this one with a 726. In the process i changed the pusher i had recived from DW to cousin's one (you can see my thread/tutorila on that subject here) I can teel you i am very happy with the cousin's one they look better and are totally waterproof, i can shower with the watch now, befor the watch had steam and the tropic just by waching my hands The spec: DW 6263 case (2 year old) Roamer stingray 726 Gen tropic 21 Gen 24-7030 tube Gen 24-703 crown Gen 78350 band DW 571 endlinks DW silver dial (new model, pretty but with some flow in the ROC and coronet position) DW hands Gen 6263 sticker (on his way to me) On a side note : the tritium dot are not that yellow in real life, it a strange efect of lightning on the pictures ... now for the pictures : Exuse the exess but it's olso some of my first attempt to make decent photos with a light box ... Any sugestion to improve the watch is welcome .... Thanks for looking

Damn then this a very great watch, is this a genuine 1665 ? I have seen silver datwheel going for less the 100$ on the bay latly, it hink your watch would definitively worth it with a 1570 inside !!

Little update I was assembling a new DW ... And after Freddy and avitt warning i have found a better way to screww the pusher to the case. My main consern was not to damage the external splines with the pliers. So the solution is to actually order 1 more pusher from cousin. that extra one will serve as a "tool" to assemble all your next pusher. You just have to use the cap of that extra pusher as a pusher wrench to screw the base into the case. So you actually use the plier on the extra cap, that you can safly damage. and this way your pusher are imaculate Now i will post picture of my 2 DW in an other thread ...

I'm not a 1665 expert but i like the hands and insert lume dot. you should try to get a date overlay, for a flat top 3 though ... (suposing it's eta based and you cant get a silver disk)

One more thing you could olso do to improve your watch is paint the tip of you chronograph second hands in black. As the white tiped hand is not correct for a 6263/5 silver dial (whether it is a non daytona σ T swiss dial, a σ T swiss + daytona, or a non σ T swiss daytona). I have seen pics of gen with white tiped hands, but i do think this is a rarity du to service or mismatch in assembling. (not an usual mismatch as with the caseback) The black + white combo should belong to a newman dial.

some of them just don't even buy watch, they just borow pictures ...

For watch you have to go "rue Royale" starting from "place de la concorde" that where all major multi-brand luxury watch sores are, then turn right at "wempe" take "rue du fb st honor

take the course !!!! Take the kit !!!!! i am really happy i did it. It really got me started if you get lesson 1 & 2 kit you will have most needed tools, then you can add a few more time to time when needed The serious buisness only comes in lesson 2 though ... And unfortunatly they never finished the lesson 3 (wich was originaly planed)

I doubt rolex service center would ruin a DRSD in swapping everything. here in paris the reliable place to service a collection rolex is directly at rolex building NOT and AD. You can make very clear what you whant serviced or not. And everything is writen before on there nice green paper with complete price quote of each parts and works to be done. they are used to deal with collector ... All people i know that whanted to keep there vintage as it is, never had any trouble, even if they were initialy ofered to replace there cracked tritum hands and such, by the jhon do that welcome cutomer, this change as soon as you speek with a manager or watchsmith ... but i have heard that rolex now somtime refuse to work on too costly rare and exotic model though ...

I think there 2 meaning to franken : 1) the exact signification : anything build from parts or altered (maybe with just one crown) 2) the common signification among the watch enthousiast (not just rep collector, as the term is olso used by the other watch freaks ...) : A watch build in a way that it share a lot of common parts with the gen, and cannot just be refered as a rep wich is a watch that would interest any gen collector (at least for the gen parts that can be striped from it anytime and be sold as true genuine...) For me a franken is clearly the second meaning. And i do consider a franken over a gen : - anything with the gen movement. (even if it is only the movemnt) - anything with the same base caliber and a good mixt of gen part (and that do exlude the sprinbar ) - anything with everything gen, exept the movement. If it not the same base caliber then it gota be 90% gen in any other aspect (for example the hands or date disk can be not gen, as usualy gen hand don't fit on other base caliber). So to franken a luxury watch (and not a festina) the total cost of the parts in the project is usualy very high and is often more then what it takes to buy a nice second hand gen (SMP/speedmaster/Insert model here). And i am not even speaking of the time needed to source part and to build... So building a true franken is really a mater of passion over logic. So i tend to expect a lot for what is refered as franken... well atleast it the way i see it ...

If you are just planning to do bracelet pin adjustement, and open a case or two, to inspect that the movement you recived is as announced you can basically buy from anywhere online. But if you are planning to do more serious stuff i would sugest you invest into Time zone toolkit 1&2. You will have most usefull tools, and actually doing the course plan is a must if you whant to teech yourself somme basis .. I did and really don't regret it. Of course if you get caught by the watchmaking bug (or should i say watch destroying ) , you can latter invest in the more expensive tools, like an ultrasonic cleaner... just my 2c ...

Actually winding it by hand is the thing to do, it should garanty a full winding (unlike wearing it) a gen rolex or ETA should last for about 48h when fully winded. i imagine any asian auto should be in that range. so if it's runing for only 2 hours after you let it idle there is definitively somthing wrong. Now if just wear it for 10 mnts and let it idle that an other story ...

I feel sorry for you! I once got screwed by an elaborated scam, that a short time menber (of course baneed) had well planed. I learned the hard way not to ever use WU, unless you have serious reference of the seller, and even with serious reference that you are actually in touch with the real guy ! And unless those scammer did a stupid mistake, you are very unlikly to recover your money from them, as they looks to be profesionals in internet fishing Maybe you could try to go after Chrono24 as they acted as the "place of market" were you got introduced to scammers?

On my 1655 i did remove the keyless work wheel so the hand is not adjustable. forgot about that part in my pics .. you just have to adjust it at 24H position when reassembling while the hour is at 12H i got it runing for about 1,5 year with good amount of wrist time, like once in a week, and the GMT hand is still in good sinch with the hour hand. i actualy missed the exact position when reassembling (maybe by a single teeth) so it is like very slightly missaligned but that never changed. the only incuracy that i think should be purposely left is the date adjustement, because that is too painful to adjust on a watch you don't wear every day. so the crown still has 3 position and not just 2. But anyway i think it is pointless to goe that far in trying to mimic the real movement as the date disk will still turn in the wrong way . Can't wait to see your project finished, your new hands just looks great.

Whaw that glashutte is just stunning ! i love te way the simple movement plate is transformed in a gorgous dial ...

Today : Tomorrow: And Sunday : i hope to have finished my current project : 6265 black dialed DW V726

The funny thing is that in term of watch expertise it is producing and assembling a small movement that is challenging not a big one !! Until very recently making a small watch, especially with complication was considered a masterpiece. Going from the big pocket watch, to very thin automatique watch was the natural evolution of technique. And manufacture where trying to make wrist watch as small and thin as possible. the actual trend is olso very drained by the ability to "show off" from very far

Unfortunatly i havent a lot of pics of the works but maybe those can still help: basicaly it is the day chage wheel that is changed with the rep wheel. The rep wheel is doubled, those extra teeth get piped to an extra wheel that is put in place of the disk change arm. the intermediate wheel get piped to an extra pinion wheel so that it will turn at half the speed of the hour pinon wheel. So you have to remove the calendar mechanism bridge. Sswapp the little day change wheel. And then reassemble the bridge with the rep bridge who as an extra covering arm that will hold the moded wheel in place. The rep bridge will fit with no problem in place of the original bridge Then you reassemble the bridge and put the extra gmt pinion wheel On this picture the wheel to remplace with the rep doubled wheel is the N

This is what i did for my 1655. i had no particular problem to tansplant the extra gear from the MBW1655 2836-2 to the 2846. removing the hacking second is trivial, so is removing the quick date set (but then seting date is a pain ...) This transplant yould definitively enance, at low cost, that impressive beauty

Well i did try not to damge the splines too much. So Both pusher works correctly what i DID learn is that when doing the reassembly, you have to pay very much attention when screwing, because the main pin can break very easyly if you screw it with too much force into the pusher cap :/