mrsoundman

That definitely looks like the very JF 16610 LN that I'm anxiously waiting to be released! Thanks for the info. Now I just have to wait another month for all the early adopters to post their reviews - to see if all the updates have been implemented...

Totally agreed, I spent 2 months of reading everything I could absorb before I ever posted anything.... There is so much info on here it's amazing and completely overwhelming at first. However, the built-in search function is painful to use (IMHO). I suggest anyone trying to find specific topics use Google to search the site. Example Google Search: yuki 3135 site:rwg.cc If you want to get creative, you can add quotes to narrow results (searches for two or more words together): "yuki 3135" site:rwg.cc And then you use quotes and not in quotes to get even more specific results: "yuki 3135" parts site:rwg.cc "yuki 3135" parts site:rwg.cc yields the same thread that @Sogeha mentioned above, which should answer most of your questions. Hope that helps and welcome to the forums.

No matter what direction you end up going, you'll want to get it serviced. @TickleShoes serviced my 3132 and did an outstanding job.

Perhaps someone is selling them cheaper these days. However, for ~$418 you can buy a 16610 from Angus, extract the Yuki and sell the watch case / bracelet separately.

That Insert looks great and that crystal looks amazing! I've seen a few done with the Cyclops and it's looks to be floating in mid air. Ironically, I drafted an email to the Professor this morning to potentially have him 2xAR my 214270 Explorer I crystal.

All good points Ken. I sent Ryan an email last night and basically said just ship me the watch using the safest method and left it up to their discretion. They ended up choosing DHL. I've ordered several watches from him in the last couple months and didn't have any issues with DHL, so perhaps in the end they figured it would all work out..? We'll see... I have learned a lot through this entire process. I will definitely respect vendors shipping recommendations more now... I just personally hold a grudge against USPS for some of the shitty things they've done with packages that I've sent nationally and internationally in the past.

Here is Angus's thread on RWI with lots of photos. I don't believe anyone has done a proper TC comparison, but it still looks pretty fabulous regardless: https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/its-time-to-say-goodbye-to-tc-sub.365756/page-44

Well, after 3 back and forth emails, they have chosen to ship via DHL. Hopefully it arrives without any issues.

From what I hear he's still fulfilling orders from that long waiting list of V7 customers. However, this thought also crossed my mind...

That's good to know. I don't really want to take any risks on this purchase, so I'll just wait the 2 weeks for USPS. 50 pieces in 4 years, that's awesome. Let's see some photos of that collection! I wouldn't be surprised. That whole notion that every rep sale is a lost sale of a genuine watch is such BS. Reminds me of the similar insane thinking around pirated music years ago..

For starters the Noob v7 is a 6-digit sub (116610) with a Ceramic Insert. And if you are into this model the V7 is great. Suggest contacting BK via PM or checkout his sub-forum. TC sells (or should we say "sold") a 5-digit Sub (16610) with an Aluminum Insert (among other differences). The JF that was being discussed above (this is an old thread) was the JF 116610 that was developed a while ago and pretty much sucked. (IMHO) However, JF has just released their "TC Killer" 16610 lv Sub (Green Insert) that looks really excellent and comes with a SH3135 which has been confirmed in many forums to be a Yuki... The 16610 ln (black insert) is supposed to be released in a couple months... So, If you're interests lie in the 5-digit Sub - I would suggest checking out the JF 16610 Sub. Unless you get a TC via M2M - you could be waiting a long while. ☺

I wasn't aware of this. I've never had any issues in 5 purchases w/ DHL. @automatico Oh man, that sounds like an ordeal. I was always worried the idiots at USPS would destroy and/or loose my package coming from China... And I figured DHL would take better care. Guess we'll see when it arrives.

I just ordered a Blue Pelagos from InTime and paid $38 extra for expedited shipping via DHL. After I approved my QC images, I get the following additional message "Shipping to your address via DHL is no longer safe, can you accept shipment via USPS?" Man this sucks, I loved DHL shipping as I would receive my watches in like 3 days! I'm still waiting to hear back what specific USPS service (Express, Priority or First Class) they are proposing to use... But, I'm pretty confident it will be wayyyy slower than the usual DHL service.... Just a heads up for anyone ordering a watch and hoping to use DHL. On a side note: I reached out to Mary last week about this same watch and she said the same thing about DHL shipping (a week earlier) and clearly I should have listened and ordered it from her - and saved some money. I went with InTime because I figured I could use DHL one last time.. So much for that idea...

Thanks for the heads up on this. This will be very helpful, as I am planning some purchases in the not-so-distant future.

If you purchase from a Trusted Dealer, you shouldn't have any issues. I purchased mine from Ryan at Intime and it's currently with @TickleShoes for servicing. Angus at PureTime is also a good guy/place to get one. All JF v2 Explorer I's (from TD's) will have the SH3132 and you shouldn't need to worry about getting anything funky.

I was following a similar RWI thread by the same author prior to the site going down. I was contemplating sending my insert to him (I forget exactly where he was located, but he was outside the CONUS). The problem everyone was running into was that he wasn't stocking REP inserts and you had to remove/send him your insert, wait a couple of weeks and then re-install. Most guys aren't comfortable trying to remove the ceramic insert because it's fragile and easily broken - so there was the added cost of sending it to someone to remove the insert first... To be honest, if this guy was stocking REP inserts, plating them for ~$290 and all I had to do was send my watch back to BK for swapping the insert, I would have already done it... The great thing about this "old school" method is that one doesn't even need to remove the Insert from the watch and it cost me ~$7 and about 1 hour of time. And the results speak for themselves. In addition, to test the long term durability - I attempted to remove the silver permanent marker with alcohol and it wasn't easy (took a fair amount of scrubbing with a fine brush). As @altesporsche mentioned, these were designed to be used in industrial environments. Previous discussions regarding cheap Insert painting mods had guys using hobby paint that they would dilute to match the GEN silver insert color. These hobby paints were not very durable and would easy wear off over time. IMHO this is the best solution for easy of application, durability and cost effectiveness.

I just finished performing this mod. It's was ridiculously easy. I used some 90% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the insert first (allow the alcohol to dry fully), applied the sharpie to the insert (didn't really worry about using too much), used a fine brush to smooth out any rough spots, then used a dry (clean) cloth to gently rub away the excess on the ceramic portion of the insert. The hardest part was painting around the pearl in the triangle. End result looks awesome! I didn't take a before shot, however, prior to this mod - while sitting in my watch box, I would look at the dull dark insert color and would be annoyed by how dark it was. Now, it looks like a proper 95% GEN looking insert! @altesporsche you are a genius, thank you sir!

Too funny, I never would imagined Silver Sharpie. They sell these in a 4-pack at my Staples down the street, I'll give it a try later today!

Your 116610 painted Insert looks Awesome! . I have a 116610 V7 and I don't wear it that much because the crappy insert color is an obvious tell. Prior to RWI going down, there were several threads I was following on the "Platinum Paint Mod", but no one would share the specific paint they used to perform the mod. There was a guy (smoke - I believe) who would paint your bezel for you, but I prefer DIY. Definitely interested in what paint you are using in the photos above and any prep instructions. This will be of huge help to anyone with a V6S or V7 who doesn't wish to spend ~$200+ on real platinum paint or ~$800 on a GEN insert!

If I only had 2 grand in my bank account and didn't want to wear a watch too far outside of my social class, I would purchase a Tudor Black Bay ZF V4 Rep for ~$300 from InTime. I would then promptly thank my lucky stars that I still had $1700 in savings and be grateful for such a kickass Rep.

Sounds very similar to Seiko's Dia-Shield coated Titanium. Citizen used to call this Dura-Tec, guess it's Super Titanium now. more info: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f21/seiko-dia-shield-vs-citizen-dura-tec-253509.html

Just send BK (bklm1234) a PM and mention you would like to purchase a Noobfactory Sub-c Black v7 w/ Swiss ETA 2836-2.

I understand you already purchased a V7 Noob, however I figured I would add my 2 cents, as I've spent the last month doing tons of research on finding the best 116610. From what I've read, if you want the very best Noob V7 116610 it's best to get one from BK. The V7's tend to have varying degrees of Solid End Link (SEL) fitment issues direct from TD's and several other potential issues that BK resolves: https://rwg.cc/topic/184560-product-offering-noobfactory-sub-c-black-v7-w-swiss-eta-2836-2/ Everything I've read suggests that BK tends to have better quality control (and in some cases, sources better quality parts from the Noob factory - like correctly fitting SEL's) which in-turn suggests that you'll get a better overall product. I also confirmed with him during my order that he'll verify the ETA 2836 movement is cleaned/oiled and running accurately. Of course, I'm still waiting for my BK 116610 to arrive - so I'll see soon if all of this is true. But there are many many threads out there that backup all of this info.

Been doing a lot of research of these recently. Just purchased an older model with the bracelet. Here is 10 pages of info on the Miyota (rubber strap) version from RWI, enjoy! https://www.replica-watch.info/threads/new-overseas-from-jjf-with-finally-rubber-straps.358278/

Well, the quickest way to rule out a browser version issue is to determine what version of Google Chrome you are in-fact running. Here is a screenshot on how to do that: The latest version of Google Chrome for PC and Mac is version: 56. If you're running Windows XP or an older version of Mac OSX, then you will be limited to version: 50. And that would potentially explain the problem. Hope this helps.