Toadtorrent

That is the super rare collectible...like the stamp with the upside down plane.

The Silix is more accurate. Here is why: Pearl on mystery watch is too small Lume markers on Silix are correct...they should NOT be framed in metal Omega logo and writing are too large on the mystery Both have incorrect HEV placement (should be closer to 1015h and not right at 1000h) End links on Silix are more accurate (flows better to bracelet instead of looking like a lumpy add-on Both bezel inserts are misaligned...but the mystery one, less so Centre second hand on mystery is too short Minute hand on mystery is too short Lume on mystery is the wrong colour Font on the writing for "Seamaster Professional Chronometer 300m/1000ft" is too light on the mystery I don't know what the mystery button is on the bracelet of the mystery It's hard to tell, but the font tail on the #7 of the mystery shows the datewheel to be very wrong Hand mounts (I don't know what you call them) that attach to the centre pin are way too large diameter Font on the bezel insert is a little too small (should be closer to touching the bezel like on the Silix) Dots on bezel insert are too small That should be a good start. In other words, the other one is more easily called out. If you fix the bezel insert on the Silix, you are essentially set (aside from the HEV placement...but who other than a WIS would know the correct placement). Mind you...I know what you mean about preferring an inaccurate version more than the accurate one. I actually prefer the incorrect wider subdial spacing on the Lemania/Seagull manual movement Speedmaster Moonwatch than the real one. There are so many versions of Omega SMPs made, that finding a particular one that is not so accurate will be hard.

Oh...so IT IS a pistol in your pocket...I thought you were just happy to see me. Nice try.

So...in a mad rush to take advantage of a moment to have some help shooting underwater kids photos...I didn't properly check the sealing on my scuba case for my Olympus C-8080...and I paid for this shortcut with a pooched camera. I want another good quality P&S...any suggestions? I'm thinking of a Canon G9 with the 24mm adapter. The Olympus had a 24mm equivalent at f2.4 which was the big draw for me as I shoot a lot at that wide end. The G9 goes higher in ISO rating than my Olympus (I shoot a lot with ambiant tungsten)...but due to the P&S small sensor I know there will still be a lot of noise above ISO 200. Please don't make suggestions for going DSLR...I already have that base covered with access to a D200 and pro-grade lenses up the yin yang...I"m looking for a snap-happy, but good quality digicam. KEY FEATURES I'M LOOKing FOR: Large Megapixels for cropping quality Reasonable zoom capability with preference for the wide end IS for low light is a preference Waterproof case availability Good watch quality macro capability of course Self-timer or remote option preferred Thanks for any input!!! I know there are some outstanding shooters on this forum

I've got another coming from Jay...supposedly with the right caseback he tells me. I'll post an update to the guide when it comes...and I'll post a comparison of the various "#1's" as well...my digicam broke though...so I'll have to find a replacement.

Awesome again. Another inspiring review!!! I love how you show the work being done in progress so we can validate how things are done...you read about mods, but it's nice to see them photographed and documented. Thanks for the great read. I almost missed my plane to finish reading this!!

This isn't mine...it's Slai's...but it has to be posted. It's a lume job by The Zigmeister on a 2006 CD: ...and to show how good it is...here it is on a wrist showing how good the lume job is in use, as opposed to a 10s exposure on a tripod:

Unlike marriage...the best solution to this feeling is to get another rep!!

I was thinking springbars. The Bergeon tool has a pin pusher...but for pins, I use a bracelet pin press: International Watchman I have the bracelet pin link remover as above...Others use the plier type...

This is stock lume using a long exposure...think of the The Zigmeister-lume potential!!

Don't all the auto products and especially WD40 stink to high heaven???? I can't imagine walking around smelling like a Jiffy Oil Change garage being something I would want when wearing what is supposed to be a $7000 watch...

Thanks again...I'll give it a go.

I just came back from the AD to look at the Hour Vision, and I have to say, the movement is very nice on it, but given that this is something you don't get to see when you are wearing the piece, it sort of gets lost, except when you are in the confines of your room looking at it before you put it on. The dial is nice...but I have to say, I think my 3717-02/05 rep dial has more zing to it than the Omega gen... BTW...in Canada, the Hour Vision is CDN8000 with the bracelet (which is very nice) and CDN7500 for the strap (nothing special).

You rock Taka!! Thanks. Believe me...it's a last resort. I tried Rodico, Rodico on a stick...#000 red sable brush, etc. The space between the outer ring and the crystal is too hard to get at. I think I can get at it from the inside of the case though. Do I just unscrew the screw on the rotating bezel crown from the inside of the case to release the rotating bezel? I'm thinking that once that inner rotating bezel is released the other ring with the hour numbers that sits just below the crystal will free up and that is what I need to clean out. Thanks.

Nice...but a Leftie on the Left hand? Lady V would know better than that.

You need a springbar tool with both the wide fork, and narrow fork (3mm and 1mm I think)...and some toothpicks (no joke)...the pointy round ones...not the flat ones. A Bergeon 6111 or equivalent is good. I have one of these: Lonestar Watches Accessories ...as well as a generic cheapo springbar tool with a busted pin end (the busted end works great for pushing small buttons and holding the position of compressed springbars). These are definitely tools you should not go without if you are going to stick in the game for any length of time. You can get the same from any of the other watch tool suppliers in the EU...can't remember their names...search for tools on this site and you should find what you need.

Nope...still available. You can send Josh, Andrew or Jay an email and they should be able to get what you need...make sure to send a reference picture so you don't get the wrong dial (the one with the long serif tail on the #1's). There is an ETA version and an Asian version.

Nice try on the picture...but she wears hers on the left.

Jay has apparently sourced me a Color Dreams Crazy Hours with a Crazy Hours caseback engraved without spelling errors, instead of the ColorDbeams one...stay tuned. It should arrive in a little while.

I just picked up a genuine chuck from H.W. Perrin in Toronto for just over $20 CDN. The other tools seem alright...dripping in machine oil which had to be cleaned off, but overall, very functional for the amount of times I'll be using them. The precision of the Jaxa tool was not huge with a fairly loose handle, but the bits themselves were alright, with minimal roughness on the edges. The screwdrivers were pretty sharp and look alright to me. They screwed up my order and didn't send the Rolex caseback tool...so that's coming (after having to pay for shipping again...stupid)...but, I have my gen Bergeon chuck and have jerry rigged arms using a piece of 5/8" wooden dowel and some threaded rod. It's the chuck precision that really matters.

I've always pronounced it "Target for Chinese Replication"

Awesome rep. If it wasn't for that flaky seconds at 6...I would be all over it. Freddy needs to add this to his Daytona collectionto round everything out.

It's true...the Pepsi is the classic. I'm not sure if I'm ready to do the crown guard mod and crown replacement thing yet though. When I look through my Antiquorum catalogue for the recent Rolex auction, the variance in shapes in the CGs is HUGE...even within the same model (always different years)...so I'm thinking these days that really, any shaped crown guard could in fact be seen as being genuine...so why bother. Then, I look at the recent watches from The Zigmeister and the shape really does look good...but not so good that I'm motivated to invest in tools to remove the tube and re-install it properly in order to screw up the job on my first reshaping effort.

You're four years away from a gold watch...hang in there.

Must get bigger house...dresser top is filled with big watch box...