Watchmeister

I am no expert on Pre-A cases but I picked this particular base case based on the least curvature on the case edges along with the lugs. That is what strikes me as the most salient differences between Pre-V and contemporary. Also on the Pre-V one of the advantages of the 2 screw system is that it requires no threading in the lugs but it also means I can't just swap out the strap pins. I just hope people like what they see out of the prototype or I will have one very expensive one-of-a-kind. It should be on the way back from Rob and then off to the CNC person.

I think it was a good miss. I have never seen one offered with box and papers. Box and papers are usually worth a lot but only on watches that are sought after and with appreciation potential.

Fabulous project. Great work.

I would guess the details on the cartel seconds at 9 is either wrong or they have a totally different model in which case you lose the better finish work on the MBW.

Unfortunately I don't yet know how much the case will cost. I know the cost of making the prototype. It is only then that I can get the per case quote and then it will vary a little based on the level of interest (i.e.quantity). So it is my intention to come back and show the prototype with a price and solicit the level of interest.

That 187 looks great. Wear that one well. Fiddy on my end today:

Does anyone know which Rolex movement is closest in height to an ETA 2824. Asking for a contemplated project. Thanks in advance.

Here are a bunch of reference shots- 2 Honpo's (what people call EL's) and a gen.

I thought his dials were lumed to the right color. I certainly wouldn't bake it. And no the lume will not darken. If you are detemined to change the color you could think about adding a touch of tint by actually adding a light coat of color (paint) since you don't care about the glow. But I would leave it alone.

The rumor is better version is coming from a different factory but it will be significantly more money. It sounds like we will hopefully have the best of both worlds - decent rep for decent price or better one for more money. But I also heard the more expensive version is one of those "coming out in the next couple of months" so who knows what the timing is.

The lume will range from none to slight glow. I have a pair of 60's dials and they still glow at a low level after being charged by the sun. But it is a low glow and it doesn't last too long.

Very nice watch. I am a fan of the 188 as well. Wear it well. Date wheel looks really good. Whose date wheel did you decide to go with?

Can't wait to see the pics on someone's wrist.

Absolutely stunning. Wear that one well.

What is the better case than the Yuki for the gen movement? The truth is I have picked up all the parts on the cheap so far and would like to keep it that way. The dial, case set and crystal cost me well under $600. The movement is going to cost $1,000. I still need to get hands and will likely use an aftermarket bracelet. I want to be into this one for less than $2k. So I would rather fix the Yuki than go out $600+ for something else.

I have been assembling parts to build a 1680 franken. So far I have been able to pick up the parts to date very inexpensively. Before I plunk down real money to buy a movement I wanted to get folk's thought on the dial. It was cheaper than an NDT which makes me suspicious but I do love the way it looks. Here are the overall project parts to date: And here is the dial - One last question - if the case set is a Yuki should I plan on doing case work or cg's or leave it alone? Thanks in advance for any opinions.

Wishing you the best during a difficult time.

Quick Update- Ziggy has made final adjustments and it will be on the way back to me. Another forum member has been good enough to suggest a CNC shop and so it will be going off to him as soon as I get it for a price quote.

You are right on the extra tick mark on the 196 and the other tell on the dial is that the 6 marker is too tall and too close to the sub-dial. Having said all that I still maintain that that particular dial (and watch) is still the most accurate of all the daylight rep dials. Excellent layout relative to the gen, no improperly recessed sub-dials, no oversized or undersized markers, good number fonts, etc. Look at it relative to the 162 in the picture (it is gen dial) and you will see what I mean.

Looking forward to seeing the final result. Are you adding a gen inner tachy ring (or is that the bezel referred to in another post)? Also is it possible to correct the misaligned bezel "click" mechanism? It always killed me that you have to correct the adjustor by half a click. In any case congrats on what I know will be a stunning project.

Leo- You should list any others you still have remaining for other models. Did you ever do 2893's or 2892-A2's. I could use two of each. Your date wheels look fabulous. I have gen crystals but not top of the line date wheels for gen crystals which yours are.

I subscribe to the Ubi approach. But remember he is typically talking about gen dial, hands, movement, etc. So we are talking about apples and oranges. The highest I have ever gone is 50% but in those cases they are 100% gen except for maybe a case back. But those watches are usually for keeps and a substitute for gen.

One more idea which in theory would be free if you can add or remove hands. If you have a rep with an Asian 7750 (28.8 kbph)that you never wear than use that movement. In point of fact the Asian movements are not that expensive.

Gotta agree. The hardest parts to find are the hands and the crown. When they come up grab them. You can always relume the hands to whichever particular watch you want to make.