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men's style - custom tailored shirts


deltatahoe

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after reading valerian's thread here about button down collars, i figured i'd start a thread about custom tailored shirts. they are surprisingly reasonable and once you go there, there's no turning back. being able to specify cuff size (for those of us that like oversized watches) is a also nice bonus (in addition to getting a shirt that actually fits, made in whatever fabric you would like). picking out fabrics from the small swatches of fabric can be tough/intimidating at first, but it gets easier over time.

i've tried several of these traveling tailors over the past several years, ranging from the higher end (with shirts starting at $95 per shirt plus shipping) to the low end (with shirts as cheap as $30 plus shipping). ultimately, i settled on mike keswani; you can see his website and traveling schedule here. mike has consistently done a really nice job of nailing every detail and measurement on my shirts, and has the best mix of value and selection that i've been able to find, with most shirts coming in at around $75 plus tax.

anyways, i'd be curious to hear others' experiences, as well as any thoughts or suggestions :victory:

deltatahoe

ps, i should put a disclaimer here -- i'm not affiliated with mike in any way -- just a satisfied customer ;)

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I like the idea of custom shirts, and it is something i will do at some point - but I just don't wear shirts enough at the moment to bother. Even at $100 a shirt, though, pick up half a dozen, and you have your shirt stock for the next few years for $600, if treated well. Or do what I would like to do at some point, head over to one of these countries with cheap labor that custom make clothes and keep your measurements on record, and get the same thing for $25 a piece. Had a boss that used to do that, his annual holiday was to Bangkok with about a grand for the next seasons wardrobe. Half a dozen suits, sik shirts, and change when he got back.

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StyleForum has loads on tailored shirts - I was looking into this a couple of months ago.

Jantzen is the place I think I might try. Pretty cheap although you have to measure yourself and the results aren't always perfect, from what they were saying on that forum.

I'm just fed up getting shirts that fit round the neck but are designed for lardy bastards, which I'm not!! lol

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Interesting thread. I have had shirts tailored for me by various tailors both over the net and locally.

Of course you can get very good deals by buying in the Far East (China, Thailand, Singapore, HK). In the end I decided to stick with local tailors though. Sure they cost a lot more but they are here and have to look me in the eyes if something turns out flawed. I am quite picky about my clothes so I prefer to be able to discuss everything beforehand and also afterwards if need be.

Just my two cents.

Valerian

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Delta-

Thanks for the link. Every person I have ever been to was a multiple of the numbers mentioned above to the point where it was very difficult to justify. I will try him.

it's funny kruzer -- your post in valerian's thread about not being a fan of button downs is one of the reasons i decided to post about my tailor; i would have guessed you had already gone the custom tailored route.

anyways, if i have time this weekend (or sometime in the near future -- this weekend is going to be crazy), i'll take a couple quick pics of some of the fabrics so you guys can get an idea of what to expect ;)

deltatahoe

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I bought several custom tailer made shirt ( a few in Holland and a couple in the Far-east ( when i was on vacation.)

For me.. it doesn't work.. the price is minimal times 2 and after 4 times 2 the steamery.. you see the lack of quality.

I swear with Tommy or Boss slim fit, for me it's fits perfect( tnx god) :) and it saves me half.. :) ( can buy another watch with the other half ) :)

E.

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I bought several custom tailer made shirt ( a few in Holland and a couple in the Far-east ( when i was on vacation.)

For me.. it doesn't work.. the price is minimal times 2 and after 4 times 2 the steamery.. you see the lack of quality.

I swear with Tommy or Boss slim fit, for me it's fits perfect( tnx god) :) and it saves me half.. :) ( can buy another watch with the other half ) :)

just as in anything, not every tailor is created equal ;)

my custom tailored shirts hold up better at the cleaners than any of my other shirts; as far as price, i've found $75 is about the minimum you are going to pay to get a quality dress shirt at a retail store -- aside from some of nordstrom's private level stuff, which i've found to be high quality (although i'm swimming in their shirts they are so big).

deltatahoe

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Great info DT!

Best made to measure shirt I have is from Liste Rouge -what a great shirt! but at $200+ a pop I don't stock my closet with them. I recently tried a Brooks Brothers made to measure and it was good but not great for the cost and fabric quality.

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In the states, I buy all of my custom clothes from Joe Hemrajani at www.mytailor.com

He comes to Chicago about 4-5 times per year and has provided me service that goes above and beyond.

However, if you are looking to do a wardrobe rebuild, or just adding a lot of things (lets say a weeks worth of professional items), it probably makes sense to book a flight to Thailand. I have been amazed by the quality, prices, etc. all built around a pretty cheap vacation.

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yeah, i've bought several shirts from joe hemrajani; he is definitely a class act. the shirts i ordered through him turned out great, and he was very nice to work with. but with most of his shirts starting at $95 (around 30% more than mike), i decided that mike was a nice cheaper alternative ;)

however, i wouldn't hesitate to order again from joe :victory:

deltatahoe

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I used to buy custom shirts alot. Love them. Recently though - the various brands started coming up with more modern Slim Fit shirts - so I have been buying them lately. You know - recession has made us cut back a little. I need to save money for WATCHES! So Charles Tyrwhitt slim fit is the thing for me right now. They are not bad. I travel a ton too, so the non-iron stuff is good for that.

Please don't make fun of me. We got to do what we got to do.

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Im extraordinarily lucky that I have a tailor less than 100 yards from my home. Since I live in a medium sized town, he understands he can not sell "$150 shirts" for that price, and I am able to get what I need for $80 .. quite a bargain. I only have 1 suit and tie set from him, and they are his "private label" but I've never had a better suit @ $800 ... A great fellow, too at I'd guess 70 years of age and a master of his craft.

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I've bought 4 shirts and two suits from a traveling tailor based in London. He comes by Stavanger (Norway) a couple of times a year and his quality is great. [Mr.Rashmi]

Being very tall nothing off the rack fits my body. I've always had the problem with sleeves being to short, trousers climbing up my legs or shirts not staying in my pants. I don't use suits on a daily basis as I work with oilwell-completions on oilrigs in the northsea, but when I do wear a suit I want it to be comfortable.

I say tailorsuits to go with my PAM's all the way!!

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I'm only 5'7" & about 140 lbs. Ermenegildo Zegna is the absolute best fitting dress shirt I've ever tried. True form-fitting and nice length in the sleeve and at the back; not too long. I generally have all my suits taken in to have a more athletic cut and as a result like my jacket sleeves a bit shorter to show off the cuffs. Zegna does it perfectly; even all the Zegna reps I bought from Kenberg.

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Would love to get some shirts made,

Off the peg stuff only ever fites good in one place.

I'm 18" Neck, 8 Inch wrist but 34 waist.

Shirtstyle I love the full cut away colour, double stitch shoulders and seams but must have cuffs not buttons,

Problem is most reg cut 18" neck shirts have waist of 44 plus and cuff sizes for upto 7" wrist.

Tom Pink's are ok and Dunhill not too bad, but think I'd like to get some proper ones made up.

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I'd love to, and have in the past, have my shirts made--you can get a hand sewn button hole, tail seams, etc shirt for 1/4 the price of buying off the rack--but my weight fluctuates to damn much. i like my shirts cut trim and when I'm in what my wife calls Fat Phase, I couldn't wear any shirts I had made when I was less fat. And vice versa.

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I also use a custom tailor for some of my suits and dress shirts. the person i use is located in HK and ships to the states. The suits are made from the best fabrics, italian wools super 200's real good stuff. The shirts are tailored to your build and needs as well, but you need to send the measurements

still you can get a Seville quality suits at a third of the cost, or at least you used to be able to. The site is jantzentailor.com. It has been a while, but I just ordered some shirts from them again, and asked that they provide swatches for suits. Waiting for them to come back. Will let you know how it goes.

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In the states, I buy all of my custom clothes from Joe Hemrajani at www.mytailor.com

He comes to Chicago about 4-5 times per year and has provided me service that goes above and beyond.

However, if you are looking to do a wardrobe rebuild, or just adding a lot of things (lets say a weeks worth of professional items), it probably makes sense to book a flight to Thailand. I have been amazed by the quality, prices, etc. all built around a pretty cheap vacation.

I've been buying from Joe since the late 70's. He comes to Seattle about 3-4 times a year. Before Joe I was dealing with a local tailor and paying much more for far less quality. His fabrics are the best. I've also visited his brother Albert in HK where they have the shop.

He can do just about anything you want duplicated from a GQ.

Jim

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I also use a custom tailor for some of my suits and dress shirts. the person i use is located in HK and ships to the states. The suits are made from the best fabrics, italian wools super 200's real good stuff. The shirts are tailored to your build and needs as well, but you need to send the measurements

still you can get a Seville quality suits at a third of the cost, or at least you used to be able to. The site is jantzentailor.com. It has been a while, but I just ordered some shirts from them again, and asked that they provide swatches for suits. Waiting for them to come back. Will let you know how it goes.

Please do - I've been considering getting Jantzen for custom shirts as they've been getting okay write ups on StyleForum, but they appear to be a bit hit and miss.

I assume you have all your measurements from when you've had your stuff made previously?

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Please do - I've been considering getting Jantzen for custom shirts as they've been getting okay write ups on StyleForum, but they appear to be a bit hit and miss.

I assume you have all your measurements from when you've had your stuff made previously?

Yes, they have my measurements from my last visit to HK which was in 2006. Basically, I told him how to adjust for the shirts, and to send swatches so I can pick fabricks for the suits. I was very satisfied last time. We'll see what happens this time.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been buying from Joe since the late 70's....He can do just about anything you want duplicated from a GQ.

So, if I wanted, say, a jacket based on my Oxxford "modern cut" suit w/ pants cut like Lauren Black Label, and using fabric similar to Zegna Trofeo (which would be my dream suit) he could do it? I'd do as many as I could afford. Any idea how much a custom job like that would run, ballpark?

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