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1675 - What do you think?


drury

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With that dial, you've corrected one of the biggest faults, no more 'Oyster Perpetual Date'. I'd like to hear how you did that because usually the gen/aftermarket dials are too small for the rep cases.

Shaping the crown guards would help, GMT cgs are different from sub cgs, maybe a gen crown and tube and an older bracelet. Also, you could file the backside of the insert to help it seat better in the bezel.

But you've got a nice 1675 already, congrats!

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How far down should the insert be?

Here is the original list of mods by "toomuchgear"

    

    * Silix-Prime 1675 base watch with the correct THIN case

    * Serviced 2836 with GMT module (I'm guessing it's an Asian ETA). Please Note: the movement keeps excellent time but the GMT hand now slips and is not adjustable in the 1st  crown position. However the date can still be quick set.

    * Custom redial in a gilt, glossy finish by CWP

    * H,M,S hands replaced with CWP vintage lumed hands, the stock GMT hand was tinted to add patina

    * Lug holes have been drilled to accept genuine springbars, the crown side lug holes were countersunk a bit more than the opposite side

    * Case has been aged (some scratches and dings) and lugs and crown guards slighly reshaped for a more square appearence with the edges softened

    * Caseback replaced with one from a vintage sub that has a better shape and aged with dings, scratches and polishing

    * Bezel was milled down to make it thinner per the gen and the insert bleached and scuffed

    * Aftermarket Clarks Tropic 116 crystal that has been sanded down for a lower profile and glued in place, a large scratch is on the cylops towards the top

drury

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That's a very nice GMT. I agree two things tha would make it better, would be the bezel insert more flush, and replaceing the crown and tube. The crown looks to be too large. I have a genuine 16750 and the crown is small.

Here is a photo of mine as a comparison.

Great job, it's too bad about the movement, possibly it can be replaced with another 2836-2 at some point.

Arthur

IMG_4532a.jpg

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If you can get the top of the insert flush w/ the top edge of the bezel that may be the best you can do. You remove the insert and file the backside. Remember, rolex inserts snap in, so they typically sit just a tad under the lip of the bezel.

TMG's list of mods is impressive

Here's another 1675 w/ pointer crown guards:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Collectible-ROLEX-GMT-MASTER-DATE-Cornino-Watch-1675_W0QQitemZ140362997604QQcmdZViewItemQQptZWristwatches?hash=item20ae495f64

Edited by alligoat
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The insert looks fine now. You could copy that early 1675 from Interwatches for the crown guards, or find another 1675 that you like. During that era, Rolex cg's were changing. And after 30-40 yrs of polishing they change a little more. You just want to get away from the Sub style cg's- GMT's are decidedly different.

Crown is the 6mm, and the case tube might be the 5.3mm- I'm kinda weak on 6mm crowns and tubes, but someone else could probably steer you in the right direction.

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The watch looks tremendous! Where did you get the dial? Wow!

CWP - which I think means "classicwatchparts.com", but I'm not sure.

Can anyone tell me which crown and tube reference are correct for this model?

(is this correct?)

drury

Edited by drury
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drury did you get the dial from CWP or did they refinish a dial that was sent to them? Thanks!!!

This is what toomuchgear wrote in his original description:

    * Custom redial in a gilt, glossy finish by CWP

probably they just did the finish then. you'll have to ask him if you want to know exactly.

drury

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@gplracer, I think TMG and Freddy both sent Silix GMT dials to CWP and CWP redid them- new dial printing, etc.

@ drury, the crown from suissetime would be OK, but until you get it, you won't know which case tube goes with it. A 24-602 crown takes a 6mm, 24-6020 tube. A 24-603 crown may take a 5.3mm case tube, as I recall. But suissetime won't know which one they're selling you.

Your crown isn't too bad and the more I look at your cg's, the more I think maybe you just enjoy the watch and put a little age on it- it's very nice as is!

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That watch looks familiar! :D

The original Silix base dial was redone by CWP since the rep dial is larger than a gen 1675. It has the original crown on it but a 5.3mm would be correct for a 1675 -its tiny!

Only other mods I'd suggest would be to fit a Eurotimez "flat top 3" silver date wheel overlay and see if the reaming cuts on the bezel could be carried down on the sides of the bezel (see my gen 16750 below) - that was one thing I was never satisfied with on this project watch. I just had the bezel narrowed thinned down a lathe but nothing done to the reaming cuts to accentuate them.

Lastly, if you're really adventurous; have the crown guards reshaped to pointed ones. ;)

Have fun with it Drury!

DSC_1493.jpg

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Globaly i think your watch looks very nice, and is in a totally other ligue than basic reps.

But with the dial you got i could sugest you a few things

This dial is from early models. (1565 not 1575)

on vintage the crown is not even a 6mm it's a 24-530, 5.30mm , the one you find on lady oyster case.

but if you go that route there will be a serious gap between the crown & crown guard, maybe not a good idear.

With this dial i "think" you need a small gmt hands.

The band is not correct, i doubt there was 78360 back then, of course it could/would have been changed by service center, but if you whant it too look like a colector piece go for a 7806(riveted) or a 6251 (jubile).

this is just a few sugestion to go even further....

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Globaly i think your watch looks very nice, and is in a totally other ligue than basic reps.

But with the dial you got i could sugest you a few things

This dial is from early models. (1565 not 1575)

on vintage the crown is not even a 6mm it's a 24-530, 5.30mm , the one you find on lady oyster case.

but if you go that route there will be a serious gap between the crown & crown guard, maybe not a good idear.

With this dial i "think" you need a small gmt hands.

The band is not correct, i doubt there was 78360 back then, of course it could/would have been changed by service center, but if you whant it too look like a colector piece go for a 7806(riveted) or a 6251 (jubile).

this is just a few sugestion to go even further....

I was going to stick it on a jubilee anyway, I think it looks great.

do you have a picture of a "pre" 75 gmt, so I could get an impression?

I could source a small hand from cwp probably and maybe I'll just use a 6mm crown ... sort of in the middle.

and @TMG about the bezel, I saw a genuine bezel for offer on a forum the other day, but it's 200

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this is a very good link for 1675 reference : http://oysterpassion.fr/6.html

It is in french but what really mater is a front shot of every dial evolution.

the french text detail each little evolution of the dial.

The dial you have, being "glossy" and with yelow marking (glit) would be pre 1963/1964.

Hoever there is no "rail" on the minuts marker, no line under officialy certified, nor hyphen between oyster and perpetual, so it is not looking like any particuliar model.

But don't wory as there is so many exeption with rolex, i wouldn't bother that much.

Just it should be looking like an early model, so the small hand & older band.

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I agree with vlaletom, The crown should be 5.3mm. Really small. The problem here is if you try to go to the correct crown size, the space between the crown guards is going to be too big, and will really look odd. One of the problems with trying to mod replica watches. It

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Guest Salamas

Hi there. Can i Change the plexi Domed Glass into à gen cyclope Glass?

Are there the same Size? Because my GMT from Josh have the wrong Glass.

Does the T116 Cyclope Plastic fit for my 1675 from Josh???

dsc05680.jpg

Edited by Salamas
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